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chindo34

Simplicity 7016H help

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chindo34

Hey guys

Im a new owner to a 7016H and this will be my first tractor to restore.. I came across this from my neighbor and picked it up off him. My issue is Im not getting any spark out of the 16hp briggs. The tractor looks like it was restored before when my neighbor bought it 2 years ago the he parked it in his shop. I pulled the plug and no spark then i pulled the cover to the points and it looks brand new. Before i tear into it i wanted to get some advise so i don't mess something up along the way. I will post some pictures up later today. Thanks in advance

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chindo34

will do... Ive been trying to find the gap info but have had no luck finding info on my engine the number are

302431 0155-01 760519

I can't find a service or owners manual for the motor.

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PhanDad

Go to this page and enter 326437 0649 01 and you'll get a parts and operators manual for a 16HP Single Cylinder Briggs:

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/manuals/engine

For some reason, the site doesn't pull up info for all the model numbers, but the manuals should be valid IF YOU HAVE A 16HP model. The 30xxxx series is 12HP unless the PO bored out the 12HP to make it a 16HP.

To see what the various HP Briggs engines look like, see the info rokon2813 posted in this post:

http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=124824

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fishnwiz

Check for rodent damage or cracks in coil/ plug wires....could be grounding to engine or tins...IE...no spark at plug.

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427435

If you look closely (in a dark garage) you should see sparking between the points. On more than one occasion, I've solved starting problems, on engines that have sat for a while, by running a little sandpaper between the points.

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BLT

Your basic operator's manual. http://www.simpletractors.com/operation/b_%26_s_300401.htm

Take out the spark plug so starter feels no compresion resistance. You can then electically spin the engine over easily and play with point gap by adjusting point gap to get healhiest spark. One of my 16HP engine's has the best spark at .013.

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chindo34

Thanks guys Unfortunately I didn't have anytime after work yesterday to work on my spark issue. I will double check the ground but I'm pretty sure its ok being the starter spins easy and my light work. I check for spark before the plug but guess it wont hurt trying another plug. Ill keep you guys updated and once i figure out how to resize photos on my mac Ill upload some pics for you guys. Thanks again

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bigten65

My wife's grandfather would hold onto the spark plug to test it. He said he could tell how strong the spark was, by how far the shock went up his arm. I my self have not tried that.

P:S: He lived to be 96 years young.

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chindo34

here is the pictures I promised a few days ago

image-1

here is the points, they look pretty new to me

image-3

Im assuming this is my kill switch wiring correct

image-2

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BLT

Disconnect the yellow wire from the insulated tab. That takes the the key switch out of the equation. Then try it. If it runs you have a switch problem. Also the point surfaces could have a milky coating on them that insulates the contact surfaces. By cleaning them with a thin fingernail file will clean them.

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chindo34

Hey Bob

I tried taking the ground off the coil earlier and nothing, I also clean and gapped the points and also nothing. I just removed the engine a bit ago and going to check the coil and flywheel surfaces hopefully my problem lies there. Does anyone know what the gap should be from the coil to the flywheel??? I Usually put a business card between them and tighten down does that seem legit to you guys??? Thanks again for all the help once again hopefully I can get her running soon as I just picked up my mower deck today also

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by chindo34

Hey Bob I Usually put a business card between them and tighten down does that seem legit to you guys??? Thanks again for all the help once again hopefully I can get her running soon as I just picked up my mower deck today also


id="quote">
id="quote">That'll work. That generally comes out to .010-.012"

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chindo34

alright guys, I got my new coil and points with condenser and found time to put them on last night got all my gaps check and still no spark...... I looked for power on the wire coming off the coil and goes to the condenser and nothing. There was another small wire on the coil the was ground out to the coil mounting bolt, is that correct?? here are a few pictures

8729142273_4963265be8_b.jpg

8730263336_8fe302031f_b.jpg

8729142273_4963265be8_b.jpg

if you guys see anything out of the ordinary let me know. This is my first simplicity and im not sure how these magneto coils work so im not to sure what to check where but im sure there has to be power somewhere in the circuit right

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RayS

In your last link, the first picture shows a front view of the coil. I would post a picture of it, but your host site won`t let me copy it.

On the right side of the coil (armature) between the lamination's and the coil. I see a little black square box looking item. Not sure but that looks like a electronic sensor like on the magnetron electronic coils. I thought they were on the left side and can check the new one I have in the box in the garage.

What is the part number on the box that this coil came in? If it is a magnetron instead of the magneto it will not work with points and condenser that were original on the engine. Also if it is the electronic magnetron coil it will not run right unless you send the flywheel to Briggs and have it re-polarized.

Please post the number of this coil. The Briggs part number for the coil is suppose to be 298968. I will send you a copy of the parts manual.

One of the pictures also shows fins on the cylinder head. I know the 14, 15 and 16hp had these. The 13hp may have as well but not sure. The numbers for motor you have listed above are for a 13hp. Someone may have changed the fan shroud at one time.

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rokon2813

Here you go RayI would think that since the 13 hp is the same 30 cubic inch as the 12, it would use a 12 hp head, not the humped fin head of the 32 cubic inch 14 15 and 16In case some of you are not sure what we are talking about, at the top of the second pic you can see 2 humped fins on the head, unique to the 14 15 and 16 hp heads.Since the tractor is an old restore I would bet they used 13 hp tin on the 16 hp engine.

coil.jpg

7016 head.jpg

coil.jpg.7201ae9411f641914e2480037021be2a.jpg

57e05e2f3f340_7016head.jpg.b0c31b8ca733da3d820258a9ee301447.jpg

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RayS

Dan, I agree. Sure looks like magnetron coil part number 398811 instead of the correct 298968 magneto that I have here on the shelf. How did you get the pictures?

398811mag1.jpg

nmag.jpg

This one even has the red end that is in one of his pictures.398811

2978.jpg

298968All the non electronic coils I have seen had the yellow plastic on the coil. Even the aftermarket that I get.]

398811mag1.jpg.d8ca43a9fb4044b90c54c8b96b3f0323.jpg

nmag.jpg.e2f4b85a3fb981e8736fa72c5ff13b2b.jpg

2978.jpg.c690f576db3ad9dd2117b42567e11ed8.jpg

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mtoney

My 16hp doesnt have points, instead there is alittle heat sinked electronic gizmo under the points cover. Looks to be set up to sense the cam lobe for the old points push rod. Cant say I have ever seen this set up before. My guess its an aftermarket set up. I havent pulled the shroud to see if the magneto coil is still original but I suspect it is from the looks of the plug wire. Works perfectly other than a little bit of preignition at high rpm. If it was points, I could adjust that out, not sure on this set up. Looks like your going to need the correct coil or the corrected flywheel for magnatron. If your going to work her, the Magnatron is the best way to go. Mike

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chindo34

well i must have ordered the wrong coil cause i did use the model number off the tins... bummer.

I have been thinking about swapping out to an automotive coil is there any cons to doing this other than not being original?? do i leave the original coil in p;lace or could i just pull it out since its not been used?? thanks guys

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rokon2813

Sorry Ray, I missed your question earlier.

I just made his pictures full screen and did a screen capture. :D

Been playing with computers almost 30 years and just figured it out the other day. LOL

If you are using Windows XP I can tell you how. ;) Just need to use an invisible program :o

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BLT

You can send you flyheel back to Briggs and they will re-polarize magnets for NC and send it back freight prepaid I believe.

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RayS

If you used the model numbers that you posted above then you have to have the correct coil. They did not have a Magnetron coil (electronic) at that time. Do you have the numbers off of the package it was shipped in?

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