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peterinbrooklyn

tiller on hydrolift squire 10

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peterinbrooklyn

Got it all setup and running grea,t tiller works awesome! Tons of fun to play with especially with the hydrolift and counter weight. Nobody else home to take action shots, but this is after I got done

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81BF19DE-3D59-4433-BCD7-CB69B759A188-412-000000CEA7EF1A3C_zpsfde915cf.jpg

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peterinbrooklyn

yes sir! it started to push me a couple feet...then I remembered the float position...hahahaha scared me for a quick second!!

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Kent
quote:Originally posted by pungo

So the weight on the front moves to take stress off the hydrolift?


id="quote">
id="quote">Yes. One of the advantages of the foot-draggers is that front or rear counterweights offset the weight on the opposite end. And though some people don't like them, I like the solid lift rods on them -- you can put hydraulic down-pressure on an implement, either front or rear. For example, when tilling I carefully push the tiller down into the ground with down-pressure, then put the lift in float position, release the clutch/brake and take off slowly...You ALWAYS want to run a tiller in float position -- the tiller spins MUCH faster than the wheels, and if not on float position the tiller can take you on a wild ride if you hit a rock or hard spot of ground. The tiller will climb out of the hole, and take you for a ride -- and since the back wheels are up in the air due to the hydraulic lift position, you do NOT have any brakes, and clutching it does no good. You have to react fast and disengage the PTO or lower the lift on the tiller to regain control...This danger is why some people change out their rear lift rods. Simplicity later modified the lift rods to make interlocking loops like two links of chain on the ends of a two-piece rear lift rod to make them safer... Starting with the 7000 series, they used cable lifts.Personally, I find hydraulic down pressure, front and rear, to be one of the most useful features of these old machines... but it can get you in trouble.

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