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bowhunt4life

HB212 Bearing Removal Success w/Pics

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bowhunt4life

Okay this all started because I could hear a growl in the rear hydrotrans, when I pushed in the clutch the growl would stop when drive pulley stopped.

So all signs pointed to the bearing. Here in pictures is where I am at.

hydro1-1_zps1ab7e8c2.jpg

Hydro2_zpsc9ac8526.jpg

Hyrdro3_zps54ba6ebb.jpg

Hydro4_zps86e5a05d.jpg

Hydro5_zps677d41f8.jpg

Hydro6_zps3c8bfd45.jpg

Hydro7_zps48bbde55.jpg

Many thanks to Ray and Steve for getting me this far. The bearing number is 62042rs and available from fastenal locally for a few bucks.

I figure I have come this far so I may as well replace the bearing.

My questions is how the heck do I get the bearing out? I have removed the snap rings. Do I trash the bearing by removing the side seal cover?

I'm kinda stuck on what I want to do. I've come this far so drilling a hole and filling with grease is an option or just replace the bearing.

Thoughts???

Thanks,

Chris

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JimH

Chris, I'm looking at my shop manual showing the disassembly of the vickers. It shows a special bearing puller which I never have seen.

I'm working today at my Lawn and Garden equipment dealer, will ask the mechanic what he does.

Hang in there, you will get this figured out.

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RayS

I tried removing the bearing the other day. When we were emailing back and forth. That bearing will move back and forth in the machined housing. Problem is I couldn't get out with the little pry bar I was using because the prying on the inner race of bearing the pry bar is against the housing and stopping the outer race against the back side of the pry bar.

The set below is dirt cheap and the hook on the set below if pulled against the inner race should get the bearing out. You should use one across from another. I just cleaned up the machined area in the housing so that the bearing would move back and forth. Make sure there is no rust or nicks on the shaft and it should come right out.

I guess I will be heading to harbor freight.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiMjg2MzE4MTMiLCJza3UiOiI2NjgzNiIsImlzIjoiMS40OSIsInByb2R1Y3RfaWQi%0D%0AOiIyMDA2In0%3D%0D%0A

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bowhunt4life

Do I pry the cover off the bearing to expose the balls? Then use the picks to pull the bearing out?

picked up a pick set for $8 at the hardware store.

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powerking_one

Chris,

My thoughts on this would be to pry out the bearing seal/shield then maybe take a couple of 3/16" screws and MIG tack weld them to the "guts" of the inner race/balls/ball cage so as to give you somthing to pull against the bearing. Like Ray said, make sure the OD of the housing is clean and the shaft as well. As long as the tack welds are short/quick there shouldn't be a problem with causing any heat damage to the pump shaft or seals behind the bearing.

Tom(PK)

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RayS

DSCF2681.JPG

Bearing out. Make sure you clean yours up better than I did. Mine is junk and I only took it apart for photo purposes. Mine is going to the scrap yard or I may call Bill at Sandy Lake and see if the have any more of the housings that have been rebushed. Clean, clean, clean is the key. You do not want any dirt or foreign materials inside the pump or motor housing.

DSCF2680.JPG

On the bench.

DSCF2679.JPG

Uvic.jpg

The shaft on the end has a slot in it. It can only go back in one way. The slot has to line up with its mating end on the other end of the pump, motor whatever you want to call it. The shaft is splined so it will go back together only one way.

DSCF2684.JPG

At the far end you can see what I am talking about in side the hole. The shaft is held in place with the two snap rings and that is it. I got the bearing to move in the housing. Then I took a pair of vise grips and a pair of channel locks will work as well. I put them on the shaft and used the shaft as a slide hammer. There was little effort involved . It basically slid out of the housing.When out and cleaned up, slide the shaft back into place. Make sure it is in the slot. Slide new bearing over the shaft and make sure it seats at the bottom of its land and reinstall the snap rings. There is a seal right behind the bearing. You should beable to get the shaft out without damage to the seal or you may want to replace the seal. I probably would just put a little grease on the seal before I stuck the shaft back in place.

DSCF2681.JPG.38f5434d67b28a453ccbc71eaa4365f0.JPG

DSCF2680.JPG.a607d24bbe9e22a9a9e9f6f13cebb601.JPG

DSCF2679.JPG.3a8d880c04102f97d1ce6877dba169f0.JPG

Uvic.jpg.1d4bb793c8c57203cedb28804680c8c8.jpg

DSCF2684.JPG.2a5a2e65191db756b413dcda134f8779.JPG

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bowhunt4life

Ray what are the two rings on the cardboard next to the bearing. Where those behind the bearing?

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ngale65

well, apparently mine has a little noise in the same area. so i guess that will be in the works at my house in the next couple weeks. Thanks Ray and Chris for the breakdown.

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RayS

The green one is the seal from the other side of the bearing. The other looks like a grease flinger on an arbor assembly. When I looked at the parts diagram for the Vickers in the repair manual that thin washer is not in the parts break down. A previous owner may have added it or Simplicity may not have put it in the manual. I have seen where they missed stuff or put the wrong part numbers in manuals in the past.

If yours doesn`t have it I wouldn`t worry about it. It is thin maybe .010 - .020 I figured it was there to just keep the seal from pushing out. Which the seal wouldn`t if the washer was in place, behind the small snap ring.

I have three other Vickers here so I can look and see if they are on one of those pumps.

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JimH

Chris, the mechanic at our work said to try an air chissel on the end of the shaft. The vibration may loosen the bearing out. This has worked for him in the past.

The shaft has to be polished up good for the bearing to slide on it.

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bowhunt4life

Well after using some hand picks to try and get the bearing out I went the route Ray suggested. I wrapped the shaft in duct tape, used a vise grip and just started pulling on the shaft and out the shaft, pulley and rear seal came. Along with a lot of fluid, forgot to drain the system. gonna change fluid tomorrow.

Anyway got the old bearing off, wiped everything down and cleaned it up real good. Placed new bearing on and installed rear seal and slide shaft and bearing into place. Quite a bit of pressure needed to get shaft to seat, almost like there was a spring pushing back. Pushed shaft into place installed snap rings and all appears good to go.

Tomorrow I'll put it back together change the fluid and start her up and see what happens.

Here are the pics;

Hyrdo8_zps4bb2878a.jpg

Hydro10_zps3b0d23cc.jpg

Hydro11_zps6447b808.jpg

Hydro9_zps70b2c090.jpg

Hydro12_zpsede0ff33.jpg

Hydro13_zps4785d873.jpg

I really want to thank all the members who contributed especially Ray and Steve who gave me the confidence to try this on my own.

This has been a great learning experience and I just hope when it is all put back together the problem growl is solved.

Chris

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rfsmith1952

This is good stuff. I have a dead Vickers I'm thinking about working on this winter. Some say they are very hard to rebuild, and some say you just get a couple of O rings at Lowes and you are back in business. Somewhere in between those two extremes is the answer. How would you test it after rebuilding out on bench? Maybe check hydraulic pressure?

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bowhunt4life

Well after looking at the old bearing it was basically bone dry.

I put everything back together and changed the fluid and filter.

It was time for the moment of truth. I started the tractor up and crossed my fingers. Made sure everything sounded good and looked good.

I slide the hydro lever forward and nothing, oh fudge!!! only I didn't say fudge...what could it be? I forgot to put the freewheel lever back in its locked position.

After that we were off and running with the growl gone!! Victory is mine...for now:D

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RayS

Glad that you got it fixed and it is working good. I was out this morning digging deeper into mine. I removed the pintle shaft on each side. These wear very oddly.

I have seen these rebushed with a bronze bushing I believe. Wouldn`t the bronze be softer than the cast iron? I would think they would use a harden steel bushing like we used to use at work in drill head plates.

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hamman01

Thanks for posting this. I have a Vickers I need to re-bearing. I was dreading taking the thing apart. Looks like I can follow your lead and do mine. That bearing looks like the ones on my deck also. The mechanic I got the bearings from told me that before I put the bearings in that I should gently use a razor blade to pry out the beaing seal and fill the bearing with grease and put the seal back on. He said he does this with all the bearings he repalces. Not sure if he was just talking about deck bearings or all bearings. Just thought I would share that. I have already greased the bearings for the deck and will be reinstalling them next week. When I get into that vickers I believe I will do that also. Thanks again. Roger.

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JimH

Chris, glad you got it resolved.

It is nice to know that the shaft can be pulled out without going inside the hydro motor.

Thanks to you and Ray for the detailed pics and write up.

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