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burger213

BUMMED! Dead 7119......threw a rod

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burger213

SO I purchased a 7119 a couple months ago, put probably 6 hours on it and this morning it broke a rod! I knew going into it these motors have their "issues" but this one seemed to have been well cared for. I changed all the fluids after getting it and ALWAYS checked the oil. I had just started to run the tiller to get the garden planted this morning- it ran for 10 minutes, started to run funny and within a few seconds made a gut wrenching sound and came to an abrupt stop followed by lots of smoke. It also blew a hole in the right side of the case! Not a good way to start the holiday. Any thoughts on my best options for repowering it? I'm thinking a single cylinder BS is the way to go. Beyond the engine what else would I need(cables, driveshaft,etc.)? Is the rest of the engine worth anything?

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Ronald Hribar

The 16 hp single Briggs is a great way to go !!

infortunately they are harder to come by.

especially for the one the was supposed to be in the 7100 series tractor

I would replace it with a twin Briggs or Kohler.

Unlees you have a source for the single Briggs or a single Kohler

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powerking_one

Michael,

I'd be interested in the engine/speed behavior moments before the rod broke. The KT series of engines are known for thrown rods like you experienced and "ventilating" the block caused by the governor gear exploding first then cascading to the engine way over speeding beyond the 3600 RPM design limit. When this failure occurs, one has literally SECONDS to shut the engine down saving it before the rod blows.

Tom (PK)

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burger213

When it happened the tiller was on and I had it set to till shallow (2-3"). The rpms were varying since the tiller was engaging varying soil height and type. It happened so fast I didn't have time to shut her down before it blew.

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maxtorman1234

If you only ran it for about 6 hours, I would suspect that it had issues before you bought it, despite what people say, we've owned a 917 since 1985 and used it for mowing every year, it's still running strong today after going through an axle tube, sunstrand hydro, and bevel gearbox. Always blown off after use. If Overheated, the steel governor pin can back out of the aluminum, and drop the governor gear. I think the Kohler Magnum twins are the easiest replacement. Other than keeping the engine clean, The key is to check the oil pressure. You should have approx 50psi. I have had many of these engines, and zero troubles. With a Kohler magnum you will either have to change your ignition switch, or add a relay to ground to ground the coil out to shut off, instead of cutting voltage to the coil.

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burger213

I'm assuming the Kohler magnums with the flywheel on top are vertical shaft? I've been l;ooking online and it looks like some are similar to my kt19 (vertical flywheel) and some have the flywheel on top. Does anyone know if the Twin BS engines would swap in? Such as a 16hp I/C series from a 5216?

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maxtorman1234

Yes, flywheel on top is a vertical shaft. If you want to get more involved in the engine, it is possible to convert the vertical shaft magnums to horizontal shaft, using the parts you have on your kt19. But You will need to disassemble both engines, it's a decent amount of work.

I don't know anything about the briggs engines other than the cast iron singles are sometimes used as replacement engines. I'm sure other members will be able to help, there's been lots of replacements and repowers talked about on this site,

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MikeES

The easiest swap is another KT engine or the Magnum 18 or 20 (M18, M20) (The vertical shaft engines are MV18/MV20). Reusable parts from your KT19: Exhaust system, engine coupler, drive shaft, starter, carb, fuel pump, engine sheet metal, heads, etc. The only difference between the M18/M20 and KT17/KT19 is the KTs are battery ignition and the M engines are electronic ignition which requires a grounding of the ignition wire when you put the switch in the off position, and no voltage when on.

You may pay more for a Magnum but may be money ahead with no other expenses.

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Brettw

I popped a M18QS in my 7119 to replace the blown KT19. Direct fit, electrical needs are the only issue as stated above, switch and harness or relay. One other thing to keep in mind. The shaft on the KT19 is 1-1/8", on the M18 it is 1". If you have a front PTO it will not fit properly. An M20 will likely have the 1-1/8" shaft.

Any running Magnums or KT's will not be cheap, so be sure of what you are getting. Other than that, great engines if properly used and maintained.

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3314WV

I just repowered a 918 Agco with an 18 HP Honda V-Twin and it is great !! Plugged right into my wiring harness and everything else was pretty straightforward.

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burger213

Update- I've found a replacement Kohler magnum 18hp. Not really a clear history on it but the guy has it bench mounted, replaced the starter and rebuilt carb. Says he can start it on the bench and it "purrs". With a trade-in on my old block I could pick it up for around $400. I also just found a 7117 that sounds like it has around 800-900 hours. Guy says he changed oil monthly and changed BGB and Hydro fluid yearly, also just replaced one of the head gaskets. Sounds like he kept up on it. I could pick this one up for $500-550, comes with 42" deck. Thinking it might be worth the extra cash for an entire tractor instead of just a replacement motor. Thoughts?

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pungo

If I planned to keep it and run it hard I would get a new Briggs replacement engine. Yeah, pricey, but then you dont have to worry about it and you know the history.

Used Kohler? Another tractor with a cicumspect engine? A small engine mechanic would be willing to put the work in it, but it sounds like you want to operate.

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Brettw
quote:Thinking it might be worth the extra cash for an entire tractor instead of just a replacement motor. Thoughts?id="quote">
id="quote">

If it were me, I would buy the tractor. A little negotiation, and maybe you come closer to the engine cost. For a buck, buck and a half, you are ahead of the game.

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Kenh

Small Engine warehouse has a Brings drop in with the drive shaft adapter and muffler ready to go. I'm not sure the price right now but I'm thinking around $1400 including shipping.

Ken

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