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jsarro

Starter Generator Rebuild (Finished 08/18/2013)

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jsarro

Today I had a starter generator fail on my 3112. It was one I had put on last year from a parts tractor when I was troubleshooting a starting issue.

After mowing today. I went to restart the 3112 to put it in the garage, and just like that it would not start. I volt tested everything, cleaned the battery terminals, and tried jumping it off my car.

It was pretty clear the only thing left was the starter.

Fortunately I had the original starter that came with the 3112.

I tested both starters while out of the tractor.

The broken one does not spin at all when supplied 12 volts.

I got the tractor back together and running again pretty quickly.

Can the old starter be rebuilt?

Are there any forum posts on how to do it?

Is it worth it?

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ReedS

Typically all that wears out on these units are the brushes and or bearings. I haven't had to repair one of these for quite a while, but when I did I was able to find bearings and brushes for about $25 on e-bay. Not real difficult other than pulley removal.

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RickS

If you're not feeling up to rebuilding the starter generator most shops that rebuild alternators and starts for cars and trucks can also rebuild your starter generator.

Rick.......

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ronin70

Whats the best way to test a starter/generator?Just attach to a battery and see if it spins? I just pulled mine off of my B112 and wanted to see if it works.

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jsarro
quote:Originally posted by RickS

If you're not feeling up to rebuilding the starter generator most shops that rebuild alternators and starts for cars and trucks can also rebuild your starter generator.Rick.......


id="quote">
id="quote">Rick, thanks for the tip, I will keep that in mind as an option. Although, I am always looking for a new challenge, I may need to add this to the list. :o

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jsarro
quote:Originally posted by ronin70

Whats the best way to test a starter/generator?Just attach to a battery and see if it spins? I just pulled mine off of my B112 and wanted to see if it works.


id="quote">
id="quote">Sherwood welcome to the club!I have always tested them by running direct 12 V to the hot post on the S/G which is the one connected to the output side of the solenoid. You can do this both on and off the tractor, just make sure you ground the mounting bracket of the starter. I usually clip the negative cable to the bracket.If the starter is good it should spin fast.There may be other ways to test it also.

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by ronin70

Whats the best way to test a starter/generator?Just attach to a battery and see if it spins? I just pulled mine off of my B112 and wanted to see if it works.


id="quote">
id="quote">
;)

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jsarro
Originally posted by BLT
quote:
id="quote">Thanks Bob, that was a great video!I did not know how to check the charge/field side.Is there a way to test the field while the tractor is running with a volt meter? Do you just measure the field post with the positive lead while grounding the negative lead, and look for 12 volts?

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ronin70

WOW, thanks for all the info on answering my question, and sorry for the thread hijack, figured it was in the same area so it would not hurt =).

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jsarro
quote:Originally posted by ronin70

WOW, thanks for all the info on answering my question, and sorry for the thread hijack, figured it was in the same area so it would not hurt =).


id="quote">
id="quote">Sherwood good threads evolve where many people get something out of it. Obviously many of us learned a lot here, no hijack here!Thanks for your input and question, it helped others!:)

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jsarro
quote:Originally posted by RayS

Pages 3-22, 3-23 and 3-24 in the link below show the test procedures.http://www.thepowerportal.com/simplicitytechpubs/TP_500_973_01_SV_SMA_Sec3.pdf


id="quote">
id="quote">Ray thanks for the link.

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powerking_one

Jack,

Did you take the S/G apart before ordering the brush/bearing kit to see what is really wrong with it? Hopefully it is just a stuck brush holder spring/totally worn out brush. Also, there are two types of rear bearing plates: the cast iron one w/ball bearing and the not so desirable aluminum one with an oilite bushing. The kit you mention is for the double ball bearing version. I have seen these Delco Remy "V" brush springs break which results in a no-op condition also.

Tom (PK)

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jsarro

For clarification, the S/G on the 3112 now that is working is the bearing type.

The one that failed is the bushing type. This S/G came off of a free parts/restore-able 3210V I got last year.

I spoke with the parts seller, he was very helpful. He canceled my order until I actually take it apart to see what is wrong with it.

When I do that I will have more questions for all of you.

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BLT

There was at one time a kit that you could convert the aluminum CE frame to a cast CE frame that included the frame , ball brg, shaft sleeve and a tapered end cap. The shaft diameter for the aluminum end frame is smaller then the shaft dia for for the cast frame and the tapered cover protected the the exposed shaft of the former armature as it is longer then the ball bearing type. 10-15 years ago I converted all of mine so there were ball bearings on both ends. The parts then were bout $7.00 a kit. Delco Remy supplied all the parts.

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fishnwiz

FYI...The cost for a good quality rebuild in my neck of the woods is $ 100-125 if you have a good core...add 75.00 if you do not.

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jsarro
quote:Originally posted by MDB

There is also this option, about the same $$ as a rebuild at the gen. shop....http://www.fleetalternatorstarter.com/starter_generator_60104.aspxI have bought several of these and they are good quality.


id="quote">
id="quote">Wow, those look pretty nice!

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