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AdamF

Rebuilding bevel gear and Briggs question

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Kent
I also need to rebuild the bevel gear case in my 7010. I recently ordered the Repair Manual for my tractor by calling Simplicity at (414)284-8669. I ordered mine on Friday morning and got it in the mail on Monday. I looked for the specifications you named, but it just has you check for freedom of movement.
Good luck, Adam
Chuck H

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AdamF
Hi all. I have a 7013. Isplit the tractor apart the other day to remove a broken bolt from the bevel gear housing and found the front seal leaking and the bearing a little loose. So while the tractor is apart I am going to replace all the bearings and seals. I was wondering if anyone could tell me how to set it up (endplay, backlash, what to look for, etc).Also is there a way to find the model # and year of a B&S other than the numbers on the blower housing? Someone has replaced the long block assy. at one time, I assume it is a 16 hp. It is 32 cubic inches, magnetron ignition(there is no place to mount the points) and it has a dipstick in the block instead of the filler hole in the sump. Any help anyone could give me would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Adam

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Al
Re: Bevel gear case, Check the shafts carefully, If you can feel or see any wear they are bad. The only adjustment is the shim pack on the right side. The seal has a spacer inside that goes between the bearing and seal press the seal in tight and then select the right combination of shims to be flush with the case. When the frame side plate is reinstalled the shims keep the bearing tight in the case. Another shing to watch is the round retainer rings. The bevel gear, clutch plate, etc are recessed to go over them so they can't come out. If the ring is distorted and comes up out of the groove any place the shoulder above the recess may push the ring out of its groove, requiring disassembly to correct the problem, or worse yet run it and then discover you have a problem. Good luck. AL

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Al
Side play is controlled by the bearing in the right side. When the beariing is seated in the case, the seal is pressed in to hold the outer race against the shoulder inside the case. The shims are added outside the seal to hold it in. The gear fits over the retaining ring, on the inside, the right side of the gear bears against the bearing inner race, the spacer fits between the pulley and the bearing on the outside, and the stack is tightened. The only things that can affect it are wear in the bearing, or the seal not holding the bearing again the case. A loose nut, or the retaining ring being out of the groove. If it is not round and fitting snugly all the way around the shaft, the gear may push it out of the groove instead of fitting over it and locking it in. Then the shaft will move. This is from a "been there and done that" experience. On the tractors with a PTO clutch the seal has a steel spacer that goes inside the seal and bears against the bearing. Hope I"m not clouding the issue. Most failures occur at the front shaft, a good check is to grab the drive shaft and see if there is any play, anything you can feel is too much, the front needle brg and maybe the shaft are getting worn. Another thing to check for is wear in the keyway of the gears. Usually caused by the nut on the pulley being loose for a period of time. Sorry if these responses are too long. If they are are just tell me and I'll try not to get so carried away. Thanks and good luck, Al

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AdamF
I just wanted to let you all know that if you are replacing the bearings in your bevel gear, the roller bearings have a special bore size(7/8") and must be purchased OEM.Iordered the roller and needle bearings and seals from Applied Industrial Technonogies here in central Ohio, and found when I picked them up that the roller bearings had a 1" I.D., and that they couldn't get them. The seals and needle bearings were correct though. Itry to get all of my bearings/seals through Applied as they only sell American made and are usually cheaper than OEM, NAPA, etc.Hope this may help someone.

Adam

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AdamF
There are several things that can cause endplay.
1) Wear in the gears.
2) Wear in any or all the bearings.
3) Retaining nut loose on drive pulley.
4) Endplay not set correctly or shims missing.

Also I talked to my dealer yesterday about setting endplay. He says he shims and runs a piece of carbon paper through the gears until he gets a good pattern. He says there is no spec for endplay. I dont know if this is correct or not.

Adam

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