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AC 718 Steering


Rebmo

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Hi, new to the group. Been bringing a Allis Chalmers 718 up to operating condition over the last 1.5 years. We moved to a rural location and I have 1.3 acres of lawn to cut/trim. The engine was replaced with a 16 HP Kohler and it seems adequate to power the tractor and the 48" deck. I went over the deck since I was having a problem with the drive belt smoking. I thought a spindle was freezing but greased all 3 and they spin free as new. replaced the deck PTO drive belt, and the deck spindle drive belt. As I was replacing the deck belt, I found my problem. The idler pulley was frozen. I loaded it with 3in1 oil and let it soak in. It started to turn but very sticky. Eventually I kept turning it and adding oil and it spins free now. Put it all together and it cuts like a champ now.

I also replaced the blades with some fresh new ones. I went over all the grease and oil points and it's a pretty nice machine in good shape for a 1978.

The question I have is steering related. I have the front turf tires (good condition) at 8-lbs and both spindles well greased. I also greased the steering box and oiled the steering shaft from up top by the steering wheel. The steering feels a bit stiff, especially compared to my 92 JD GT-262. It's not terribly stiff, but could be easier. This tractor sat for years with a blown 18hp motor and is very clean and relatively little rust. I just wonder if there is a lubrication point I'm missing that could help add some ease to the steering. I have given ample time and use for the grease & oil added so far to penetrate but it's still takes pretty good effort to steer. Is just because it's an all metal machine and the weight is a factor? Any hints/thoughts would be appreciated.

Reb WI

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What I do on these tractors I pull the steering shaft out and polish it up real good. Then lube it up good and they have always turned great after this. Takes a little time to get it out but it's sure worth it. And think you would be happy after all is done.

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Steve,

I would not put much long term faith in the re-lube of the deck idler with the 3-in-1 oil job. The bearings in them are designed for grease and are sealed. To me, the damage is already done and to do the repair right, you should replace it NOW before (when it really seizes and destructs) and thus shreading another deck belt; IMHO.

I am making no reference to the deck arbor bearings, which is a whole nother topic.

Tom (PK)

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I'd take a floor jack and take the weight off the steer axle and see how it turns. Then unhook the drag link (if its easy to get at) and see where the tight spot is, axle or column?

If a spindle is packed tight with rust, sure it may take grease, but the drag will still be there.

Just a thought.

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You need to get behind the battery to get at the steering shaft and spray it good with PB blaster or some other penetrating oil in the collars the shaft turns in.

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quote:Originally posted by goatfarmer

8 lbs doesn't sound like a lot of air PSI to me.


id="quote">
id="quote">Me either. I run 25-30 in mine.
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Rodger Rodger on that Tom,I mistakenly read to apply light oil to the idler pulley when the 7000 series Simplicity manual states lightly oil the "pivot" not the idler. From what you state, I'm also not sure I could have rescued the idler pulley. I will replace it and leave the sealed bearing to do it's job. Any suggestions on a source for the idler pulley? I may use it one more time. Thanks Tom for the correction on this.Any advice for the idler pulley removal? I tried to get it off when it was seized, but it was frozen on the shaft. I did put some penetrating fluid on it. Do I need to use a puller. Thanks in advance for any advice, Reb

quote:Originally posted by powerking_one

Steve,I would not put much long term faith in the re-lube of the deck idler with the 3-in-1 oil job. The bearings in them are designed for grease and are sealed. To me, the damage is already done and to do the repair right, you should replace it NOW before (when it really seizes and destructs) and thus shreading another deck belt; IMHO.I am making no reference to the deck arbor bearings, which is a whole nother topic. Tom (PK)


id="quote">
id="quote">
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I was mistaken, per the A/C 718 manual Page 7, I used the A/C specs. I put 10-PSI in the front and 8-PSI in the rear. I was actually several PSI higher when I checked the spec PSI thinking low tire PSI may have made the steering difficult but I actually had to lower the PSI to the specs above.

quote:Originally posted by goatfarmer

8 lbs doesn't sound like a lot of air PSI to me.


id="quote">
id="quote">
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I always jack up the front end, I use tri-flow with silicone and spray down the steering shaft, there is a rubber bushing that usually sticks. It really loosens up the steering. Just a thought.

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I pulled the battery and P-blasted the steering shaft and it worked great, but then got really dry squeaky after cutting about 1/2 acre. I came back and dropped some oil down the shaft and that was good for the rest of my cutting and didn't seem to be drying out. Burntime, I'll try jacking it up and using the tri-flo with silicone. This 718 is really clean because it sat for 30 years. But that's not good either since a few areas are bound up due to not moving, the steering being one.

Thanks for the ideas, I just need to get the right lube on it that will hold up now.

Reb

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I ordered Tri-flow to lube the steering shaft and a new idler pulley. I'll update when the job is complete next week.

Thanks for the ideas,

Reb

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2001 Simplicity Landlord DLX owner's manual. Front: 12-15 PSI Rear 6-8 PSI.

This is about where I run all of my tractors. Can't tell you how many times I have gotten tractors where they are running pressures similar to an automobile. Way, way too much PSI.

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The steering gear box on my 7116 is stiff but only when I bolt it up tight. Something is off or out of line just enough to put a bind on the parts when everything is cinched up. I always wanted to do a bit of shimming, but now I have a 7119 so probably won't do much with it.

Just another possibility to look at.

Ken

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  • 2 weeks later...

Checking in...............

I replaced the idler pulley in the 48" deck. Was a bit stuck but easily pressed out. So the deck works great. I didn't get any suggestions for locating a "OEM" deck idler pulley so had put a Stens in (all I could find). Wish I could find a stock 48" deck idler pulley, so 2nd the call for a source. TIA

I lubed the steering with some garage door lubricant and it worked great. Much easier for sharp turns on a few maneuvers I make around obstacles.

This setup is working good now. Wifey is doing the back acre on our JD GT-262 (great condition) and I do the rest on the AC-718. So far she likes getting out on a machine, which is neat. I'll have to get her a straw hat. My son is 11 so a couple more years and he can ride the AC and I'll run the trimmer, or maybe he can run the trimmer and I'll stay seated. hehe.

Thanks for all the great advice.

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