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Walbro replacement throttle plate screws

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My replacement #60 Walbro throttle shaft and plate came in the mail from Jack's Engines, and I thought the Kohler shaft kit came with replacement throttle plate screws, but apparently it doesn't. I stripped the old tapered screws taking the throttle shaft out, so I can't reuse them, but I found the right size non-tapered screws that match the throttle shaft thread at our local hardware store, but couldn't find the tapered screws.

Will a lock washer and some Loctite on the the non-tapered screws keep them from vibrating out and going into the cylinder head, or should I try to find the tapered screws? The guy at the hardware store thought Loctite and split washers would probably work, and he also suggested I put a piece of fine mesh metal screening between the carb and the carb gasket to keep the throttle plate screws from getting sucked into the head should they vibrate loose.

Also, instead of the flexible bushing seal I put a bronze bushing into the counter bore of the carb shaft to tighten up the throttle shaft play, but where does the small foam gasket go that came with the Kohler throttle shaft kit?

Any thoughts on any of this?

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Here are a few Walbro choke/throttle plate screw PN's (checked on Jacks Smallengines DB):



These should already be treated with a blue Loctite type thread sealer.

Thread size is like #4-40. You could use generic pan head screws cut to length and maybe use internal tooth star lock washers along with Loctite 273.

The foam ring is a dust seal that goes on top of the throttle shaft between the throttle lever and top of the carb body.

Personally, I wouldn't do the screen mod suggested between the carb flange and intake gasket due to potential engine performance loss and vacuum leaks.

Tom (PK)

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You should be fine using the locktite. The split/lock washers can only help. As long as you can tork these without spinning them, they'll be fine.

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You can probably just use 4-40 screws with locktite. I also have a spring loaded center punch. When I install screws in a carb, if I can get to the end of the screw I will punch it one time with the center punch to flare it just enough that the screw cannot back out on its own. I don't punch it hard because I may need to remove it later, just enough to keep it from vibrating out. I have notice that several sets of screws that I have removed from carbs have had center punch marks in the end of the screw.

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