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12 hp Briggs lost power AGAIN


Allisgrandson

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I've posted about this tractor before, and thought I had the problem solved. I have a Homelite T10 with a 12 hp Briggs that wouldn't run above an idle when I bought it. It died, I replaced a condenser, it ran weakly, promptly died, replaced the condenser and points with a NOVAII, ran like a champ for about a month (6-8 hours)!

Well, I'm back to I can't run it above an idle again. NOVAII is still connected and dry, spark plug is clean, and it still starts up instantly. Would the coil have a condition that puts out too much voltage and kills the condensers and NOVAII?

Thanks for helping me with this. I hope to see you all at the GOTO!

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I haven't replaced anything yet this time. During the previous troubleshooting, I replaced everything but the coil. I really don't want to pull the engine, so I'm hoping for a miracle fix. I don't recall anyone else having a NOVAII fail this soon.

My guess is I need to find the address to have the flywheel sent off to Briggs to be re-polarized and replace the coil with the (I think) Magnetron.

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I sent mine off Friday Allis, might be your best bet. The addition of the nova unit made a remarkable difference which would tell me its in the coil. I wouldn't discount a distorted flywheel key either.The Briggs manual shows a timing sequence where the flywheel is installed in time with the magnets approach, but this was for points equipped motors.

I have to go back and read the Governor adjustment procedures, if that is off it would have the same symptoms.

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Brian,

I would recommend putting the points & condenser back in (temporarily if you have removed them) and hooking up an external 12V coil as the ignition system as a test. If the engine runs normally via this set-up then there is your justification for pulling the engine. The flywheel nut may not be torqued to spec or has come loose (~~140 FT-LB) and/or the key partially sheared. if the key is OK, then the magneto coil is the culprit.

BTW, there are lots of internal ballast resistor used coils out there on ePay (if you already don't have one) like:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Horse-John-Deere-Cub-Cadet-K-Series-Engine-Ignition-Coil-/111058196427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19db9597cb#ht_416wt_681

Having a "test" 12V coil setup like this can really save one a lot of "guessing" and throwing wrong parts at the problem.

Tom (PK)

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Maybe I have missed something, or just been lucky. When I have converted engines to a magnetron ignition, all I did was to install the new module. In fact, the instruction sheet that comes with many magnetron units doesn't say anything about repolarizing the flywheel. I know Kohler units need their flywheels repolarized. Somebody had submitted a topic about how to do it yourself, probably 12 to 18 months ago. I worked a Kohler a few years ago with a similar problem. Turned out to be a loose attachment on the throttle shaft. Good luck.

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quote:Originally posted by simple_stan

I worked a Kohler a few years ago with a similar problem. Turned out to be a loose attachment on the throttle shaft. Good luck.


id="quote">
id="quote">Here is one that needs to be checked out B 4 you invest/waste money on more electrical stuff.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjYVKRv612g
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I'd get a good look at the carb linkages and make sure a spring didn't break or a linkage became disconnected.

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Quote:

"I know Kohler units need their flywheels repolarized. Somebody had submitted a topic about how to do it yourself, probably 12 to 18 months ago."

How bizarre; never heard of this one before...

Tom (PK)

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quote:Originally posted by powerking_one

Brian,I would recommend putting the points & condenser back in (temporarily if you have removed them) and hooking up an external 12V coil as the ignition system as a test. If the engine runs normally via this set-up then there is your justification for pulling the engine. The flywheel nut may not be torqued to spec or has come loose (~~140 FT-LB) and/or the key partially sheared. if the key is OK, then the magneto coil is the culprit. BTW, there are lots of internal ballast resistor used coils out there on ePay (if you already don't have one) like: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Horse-John-Deere-Cub-Cadet-K-Series-Engine-Ignition-Coil-/111058196427?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19db9597cb#ht_416wt_681Having a "test" 12V coil setup like this can really save one a lot of "guessing" and throwing wrong parts at the problem. Tom (PK)


id="quote">
id="quote">Thats what i would do ^ . i have a 12V test coil setup just for that reason or could be as simple as the gas tank outlet plugged
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Ok, so it looks like a couple of interesting developments. The spark plug was dead. I tested a new one and had spark. I put it in, and it fired right up. Still couldn't get it to rev up though. Hmm. The linkages all seem to be connected, and the springs are still springy and connected as they were before the second bout of troubles.

The engine not reving up seems to be fuel restriction. I pulled the fuel hose off of the carb, let it flow for a second and reattached it. She fired up and reved up nicely. It backfired some, and still hesitates when I let out the clutch, but it stayed reved and running. I'm going to take some time with the fuel issue when I have some more time. I'm working 2 weeks of 12 hour shifts and interviewing babysitters with my wife, so time is tight!

Brian

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quote:Originally posted by powerking_one

Quote:"I know Kohler units need their flywheels repolarized. Somebody had submitted a topic about how to do it yourself, probably 12 to 18 months ago."How bizarre; never heard of this one before...Tom (PK)


id="quote">
id="quote">i too have not heard of any way to use a NOVA on a Kohler K...im not thinking this is possible.....please let me know in another thread if it is possible....sorry, continue with your original discussion... sm00
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quote:Originally posted by Allisgrandson

Ok, so it looks like a couple of interesting developments. The spark plug was dead. I tested a new one and had spark. I put it in, and it fired right up. Still couldn't get it to rev up though. Hmm. The linkages all seem to be connected, and the springs are still springy and connected as they were before the second bout of troubles.The engine not reving up seems to be fuel restriction. I pulled the fuel hose off of the carb, let it flow for a second and reattached it. She fired up and reved up nicely. It backfired some, and still hesitates when I let out the clutch, but it stayed reved and running. I'm going to take some time with the fuel issue when I have some more time. I'm working 2 weeks of 12 hour shifts and interviewing babysitters with my wife, so time is tight!Brian


id="quote">
id="quote">I had a similar issue once (as mine don't have the screen in the tank)where a piece of red plastic from my gas can became lodged in the tank elbow fitting...
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