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Phase 2 complete!


timflury

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I picked this up about three years ago for $550. Last fall we helped another club member move and we pushed the limits of the trailer and it was time for me to take it apart and have a good look at it structurally and it looks like it failed inspection. It looks like I have three choices, choice number one is to cut the nose off and replace the nose, choice number two would be to patch the top and bottom with large pieces of quarter inch plate and choice number three is to drag it to the scrap yard and get scrap price for it.There's been repairs in the past as far I can see by the angle iron that was welded in.

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I'm not a welder so if it was mine the tires would come off and the junk man would inherit it. Not enough to start on.

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Choice #4...sell it ;) It's a legit Tow Bee, somebody here has the time, tools, and talent to make her show worthy, maybe even show worthy.

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Choice # 1 in my judgement is to never have bought it in the first place...B)XX(

Tom (PK)

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Sell for restoration being VERY CLEAR that it isn't road worth, or scrap it. I was given a snowmobile trailer that I had planned on patching here and there. It looked a lot like the condition of yours and when I started taking it apart I just found more and more that would need to be replaced. The axle was 2" thick and literally solid, so I saved that, the tires and the jack and rebuilt it from there there up.

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Useful as a pattern only, maybe save deck and axle.....

Not road worthy as is and not much good metal to anchor a repair.

My two cents, value accordingly.

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I have a set of tires for the trailer. The ones on there are BADLY weather cracked.

I've decided to repair the trailer. As to how still remains a mystery.

As far as a total restoration goes, this trailer is too far gone for that.

The max load on this is only #1500, so I really don't need to make heavy duty repairs, just structurally sound ones for what it is. The angle iron repairs that were previously made only have surface rust.

I did have all three of my machines on it. My LL, Serf and WB just fit, and are still within the trailer's weight capacity.

I WILL preserve the A/C tag.

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I would scrap it. God bless you for wanting that huge a project. I bought a steel framed wood deck ten foot long trailer for 400 dollars 15 plus years ago and replaced the wood floor six years ago and it still holds 3000 pounds easily with much larger tires than that. the rust I have is about ten percent of yours. I think you need some air tools or a couple 20 dollar harbor freight grinders and a decent wire feed welder. My guess is you are looking at 30 hours of work on that to grind and weld and get any kind of paint over the metal. I hope you really enjoy it when its done or even road worthy.

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I'd scrap that in a second, too far gone. I had a similar trailer, built a whole new tongue then had to scrap it.

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Scott,

A little history on my trailer,,,,

I actually bought it not too far from you, say somewhere near 51st and Hampton.

The PO didn't know what he had. He looked at the load limit on the tires and figured when they both were added together, the trailer would hold #5000. (I had to chuckle, that's more than a car weighs).

Erik's tractor is heavily weighted down. It has to weigh much more than #1500.

There's been repairs made to it in the past back on all the cross members. The perimiter of the frame is surprisingly clean, the major rust that hasn't been repaired is only on the nose. The deck as you can see, is very straight and rust free.

After I fix it for what I need it for, I'll keep it for a few years, then I will most likely put it up for sale cheap showing the buyer what needs to be done to it. If there's no hits on it, then off to Miller Compressing it goes.

The more I spend time dscussing things here, and pondering my thoughts, the better direction I am getting as to the repairs that are going to get done. The major stuff has to do with the bed of the trailer, from the front of the decking forward. Everything else is either solid, or had been repaired with angle iron.

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Tim in my opinion; It IS a Tow-bee right? They're no longer made? so to me it is worth restoring if at all possible. Or before scraping a rare item I say offer it up at "scrap prices" and hopfuly sombody with the time/talent can save her...at least for shows as mentioned. I wish you'da posted a full view of it sm01

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There's nothing wrong with it that a little time and angle iron

won't cure.

If I were doing it I would use the tubular steel and try to

keep it close to original. ( I have a lot of time:D)

I think it looks worse than it really is.

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Being that it is Tow-Bee, obsolete and very desireable to collectors, repair it for a couple of years, use it and re-sell it later with the undrerstanding it needs to be rebuilt. It will sell and probably faster than you imagine. JM2CW. Good luck. Roger.

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  • 1 month later...

I started cutting out rust at the nose of the trailer.

All the metal I need to complete the job has been ordered.

I'm having a new tunnel for the tongue bent up out of 10 gauge, the old one is 12 gauge.

The front crossmember will be 3x3x.120 wall square tube and the rest of the crossmembers will be 1x3x.120 rectangle tube.

I am going to reinforce the nose of the bed with 1/8x3 flat stock and 1/8x2" flats.

I still have a question. All the crossmembers have been reinforced with angle iron. It's tough to tell if these are repairs.

Can a Snowco/ Tow-Bee owner verify that these have been repairs by looking at their trailer??

I also got approval from the finance committee to purchase a welder.

The one I have in mind is by Hobart and it is capable of welding up to 1/4" steel with a 20% duty cycle for about $500.00.

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/645624-hobart-handler-140-mig-welder.html

Has anyone used a welder like this???

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I read about MIG welders for a year or more before I finally bought one. As with anything opinions vary, as to brand. But a common theme was if you can spend the extra, get the 220v version. More duty cycle usually.

I sprung for an Eastwood package 220v, infinate adjustment on wire speed and heat setting, also ready for gas. Came with a cart auto-dark mask, gloves, tools etc. Also came sith a spoolgun. Used it with flux core for a while. When I went to fix daughters Ford Escort shock tower, I bought a bottle and solid wire. Big difference , much improved welds.

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The one I have in mind is by Hobart and it is capable of welding up to 1/4" steel with a 20% duty cycle for about $500.00.

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products/645624-hobart-handler-140-mig-welder.html

Has anyone used a welder like this???

They are a very good welder.

My son-in law bought one just like that after he burnt up my

Clark.

Always remember to use a heavy gage extension cord.

My low voltage transformer is what got cooked, from to light a drop cord.

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Tim, I purchased that same package earlier in the year, and love it. I'm hoping to add gas to my setup for Christmas...that should greatly improve my experience, but so far, being self taught on it (and it's my first wire feed), I'm very pleased. I wanted the ability to take it with me, and use it where 220 wasn't available, but still have some guts behind it. I use an old Miller Thunderbolt Arc welder for heavy stuff, and this takes care of the rest. I even recently repaired a very thin, decorative lamp shade support for my mother...small, light home owner repairs are impossible with my big unit.

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Josh,

A gas Mig setup won't work that well if you are welding outdoors. The shielding gas will blow away easily and your bead will have the appearance of the surface of a sponge. FYI;);) Gas is gooddOddOd, but weld indoors or out of the wind.

Well,

I'm disappointed with Tractor Supply.

The only ones they had on their shelves in Mukwonago and Burlington were the display models.8C8C They had 22 on order, and 57 requests for new ones.sm02sm02

The boxes were missing at both stores, but I did manage to find the owner's manual and proceed to tell the clerk what all is supposed to be included. I got the unit home and started setting it up.

The o-rings on the feed hose were rotten and broken. At this time, I do not need them, but when I change to gas, I will.

There were no tips and a flux core nozzle, so I bought some. I went to fit the nozzle and I noticed the name embossed on the gun...... "Miller". Not that Miller is poor quality, but I bought a nozzle for a Hobart.8C8C I'll be on the phone with Hobart support Friday morning to see how I can get things sorted out.

Also missing was the regulator if I needed to switch to a MiG setup.GRRR!!!

I have a lot of experience welding with MiG, this will be my first with flux core wire. I'll use the .030 sample roll that came with it, then I will upgrade to .035 flux core when the time comes.

These Snow trailers aren't that heavily built. The tunnel for the tongue was made from #12 gauge steel. It looks like the square tube isn't much thicker than that either, maybe #10, or .120" wall.

I'm still wondering if the angle iron crossmembers in my first set of photos was factory, or not?? Can someone check on their trailer and see please??

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Many Kudos to the Hobart Tech Support Team!!!:D:D

My missing parts are on their way, including a new manual as I was told by the guy that it was for a newer model.

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