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rfsmith1952

Mega Fire Ignition

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rfsmith1952

Looking for some guidance here. The Homelite T-12 (B&S 12HP) had been running rough, and then not at all. I checked, found no spark. I looked at, cleaned and reset the points, engine started right up. Shoulda stopped there :D The contacts weren't hitting each other flush, causing them to wear lopsided and create an uneven contact surfaces. So, I thought I'd go electronic. Found a universal ignition module on Ebay for 10 plus 3 shipping. Looks just like the Mega Fire. It is an Oregon Part number 33-053 from Equipatron in Wisconsin. I installed the part, and now have no spark at all. Since it's pretty straight forward, I'm pretty sure I installed it correctly. I then assumed the part was defective. I emailed Equipatron. They said it probably wasn't made to work for my specific application. They were willing to refund, exchange, whatever I wanted.I replied and told them it was B&S 12hp in a Homelite Garden Tractor from the 70's.They responded that the device won't work with an engine with a charging coil, as they would expect a tractor engine would have. So they refunded, and said just discard the module. So they are pretty good about it. I'd buy from them again.The problem is, I think this module should work with my tractor. Here's the specs:Oregon 33-053 Replacement Universal Ignition ModuleFits most 2 cycle and 4 cycle engines from 21 cc up (except those with alternator flywheels)Use on most mower engines. Use separate modules for each cylinder in multi-cylinder applicationsNOTE: Not for battery ignition systemsHere's a pic:

Megafire.jpg

Megafire.jpg.dac8c44bacae36aa51ef5f3b430c1b9b.jpg

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RayS

I have them on my 16hp Briggs and they work great. You do have to make sure they are getting a good ground. 10 years without a problem. You don`t have a charging coil. You have a magneto, unless you have converted to an external coil, if so it will not work. They will not work on a Kohler with battery ignition either. Make sure you are getting a good ground and try changing the wires around on the module.

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BLT

Did you switch the wires of the electronic unit. On the Sten's unit, the instruction say if it doesn't fire wired up one way reverse the wire connections the other way,

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DanD

I put one of these units on my 7016 a few years back. It ran well at lower RPM, but when I opened it up, the engine started missing and just generally running poorly. So, I just took the bull by the horns and replaced the points plunger and the plunger bushing, put in new points and condenser and plunger seal and it has run perfectly ever since. I just don't know why my tractor didn't like the Mega Fire unit when a lot of people have good luck with them.

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rfsmith1952

I switched the wires...no go

I added a wire direct to ground..no go

I put the wires back....no go

I added a wire direct to ground....and

got some poppin, some smoking, but no startin. Got a littel blue spark every once in a while, but no start.

I think the unit is defective.

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rfsmith1952

Update: Unit was defective. Intermittent. Got a new unit installed and tractor now starts but roughly, and there is some internal popping (sounds like the reverse of a backfire, which it does also) while it's trying to start. Also stops moving on an upgrade (engine remains the same RPM and sounds, etc) This is a vickers hydro, and I'm beginning to think we need a pump. Oh well, the T-10 is running well and so it has cart duty. Usually the T-10 has the summer off and plows in the winter. The T-12 has the winter off and tows the cart all spring, summer and fall. Neither of them cut grass, but I'm working on that!

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PhanDad

Bob,

Have you checked the clutch belt idler bracket for easy movement keeping tension on the drive belt?

I've found that since the clutch is rarely used with a hydro, so they "freeze" in place and slowly stop tensioning the belt.

Might be an easy fix.

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BLT

Sometimes and it seems like on 10 HP engines, you need to wire trigger thru points to elimate 'popping' on start. I and a few others have had this problem and we wired the trigger thru the points.

MegaFireBriggsc.jpg

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pungo

I started having all kind of issues with firing on the B-110.After having the flywheel re-polarized by Briggs she fires up incredibly fast and runs strong. I hate to preach but this is the way to go. I had it done several years ago on my 2010 when I was first learning and some folks from here guided me how to do it. That engine always fires first time and runs strong.

Sorry, I hate Briggs point/condenser systems. Magnatron was the greatest invention in small engine land.

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by pungo

I started having all kind of issues with firing on the B-110.After having the flywheel re-polarized by Briggs she fires up incredibly fast and runs strong. I hate to preach but this is the way to go. I had it done several years ago on my 2010 when I was first learning and some folks from here guided me how to do it. That engine always fires first time and runs strong.Sorry, I hate Briggs point/condenser systems. Magnatron was the greatest invention in small engine land.


id="quote">
id="quote">I agree, but for those who do not want to remove engine, this is an alternative. I have one on a 7010 since 1992 and the owner hasn't complained yet.

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perry
quote:Originally posted by pungo

Magnatron was the greatest invention in small engine land.


id="quote">
id="quote">Yes i like the magnetron , do they still make them ?. I have a few still in the package from years ago. I run the mega-fires also dOdpart #394970

159085843_briggs-stratton-magnetron-ignition-394970-box345.jpg

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rfsmith1952

Bill, thanks I will check clutch idler tension. On that, my question would be: Why only uphill?@Pungo - I am going to take an engine out of one them sooner or later, I think out just plain thoroughness I would have the flywheel re-polarized.@Bob - This is a 12hp engine, and your diagram and connections differ significantly from the diagram that came with the megafire. This is a megafire II, both wires are black. Shall I put the points back in?As usual, thanks all, great advice!

megafirII.jpg

diagram.jpg

megafirII.jpg.b3bd2a7cdc21b0d58317615e1ae8a405.jpg

diagram.jpg.927f1ebd2e5b996c8e3300a0ea468e9d.jpg

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powerking_one

Bob,

Here would be a nice "enhancement" for BLT's novel use of the Nova ignition module: wire together 2 3-amp fuses in series, then put them accross the blue and white module terminals; that would mean 6 amps of protection, right??8D:o):D

Tom (PK)

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PhanDad

Bob,

If I understand BLT's "improvement" correctly, it needs two things to happen to fire instead of just one.

With the megafire constantly grounded as in the install instructions you posted, it only needs to sense the flywheel magnets nearing the coil.

With the improvement, the megafire trigger circuit is only grounded when the points close. So both the magnets must be near the coil AND the points closed. The spark timing should be better in this setup.

Did I get it right BLT?

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PhanDad

Bob,

As to why only uphill for loss of movement, uphill there's more pump resistance and the belt slips more. That's my theory anyway.

Tom,

Fuses in series will blow at the lowest rating; in parallel the current carrying amperage adds. ;)

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perry
quote:Originally posted by rfsmith1952

Also stops moving on an upgrade (engine remains the same RPM and sounds, etc) This is a vickers hydro, and I'm beginning to think we need a pump.


id="quote">
id="quote">is the trans weak in both directions forward and reverse ? if it's only weak in one direction then it sounds like belt or hydro control linkage.its a common problem for the hydro control linkage to be out of adjustment or worn out. had same problem years ago on my 3314H . would go strong in forward but had weak reverse. sometimes would not even climb a slight grade in revearse . I swapped that trans into my 3212H and the trans works great . it was the linkage that was bad in the 3314H.

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landlord2110

put the nova II on my 2110, best thing could of done-I adjusted sparkplug gap(.020"). because it ran rough. put in 2010 & no issues

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by PhanDad

Bob,If I understand BLT's "improvement" correctly, it needs two things to happen to fire instead of just one. With the megafire constantly grounded as in the install instructions you posted, it only needs to sense the flywheel magnets nearing the coil. With the improvement, the megafire trigger circuit is only grounded when the points close. So both the magnets must be near the coil AND the points closed. The spark timing should be better in this setup. Did I get it right BLT?


id="quote">
id="quote">Bill it doesn't happen on all points engine. My 16 Briggs is wired direct to trigger and no popping. But some CI engines with trigger will fire on every rev of flywheel making it somwhat hard to start. Wiring thru point arm get you back to every other rev and it could give better starting voltage. Just theory, no voltage bench testing other then the rewire.

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pungo

When I say "Magnetron" I mean pointless ignition for small engines, though I do understand Briggs still makes the module that converts older points motors to sans-points. I have one too but decided to go ahead with the flywheel/modern coil setup.

Yeah, ya'll are right, removing a motor can seem intimidating the first time.

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