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bowhunt4life

Disc Harrow Rebuild Question

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bowhunt4life

I was lucky enough to get this disc harrow from a club member. He shipped it to me disassembled.

I sand blasted, primed and repainted.

Now that it is finished the disc's do not spin freely. I went nut, washer, disc, spacer, disc, washer, block, disc, washer, block, disc, washer, bolt. Same sequence for the other side.

I don't believe I overly tightned the bolt and washer but perhaps I may have.

Before Pic

disc002_zpsfb41ce66.jpg

During Pics

2013-07-28124700_zpsc634d6c8.jpg

2013-07-28134303_zps809c41bf.jpg

After Pic

2013-07-28145257_zpsa2373585.jpg

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HubbardRA

According to the first picture the supports should be on the outer discs instead of the inner discs. It also looks like there is a flat bar that goes against the outer disc an attaches to the top of the support.

I am saying this because it doesn't look like you put it back together the way it came apart.

Otherwise I don't know why it doesn't want to turn. It should work either way.

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bowhunt4life

I actually put it back together like the pictures in the manual showed. I got half way thru the rebuild and "awe shoot" because it didn't match the way it came pictures.

I figure I would trust the manual and go that route. I'm gonna try and loosen the disc shaft bolt nut just a smidge.

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rokon2813

Here are a couple things I noticed when I took it apart.

It looked to me like the shaft was spinning inside the steel sleeve through the wood blocks, and the washers and discs wore the ends of those steel sleeves.

The wood appeared pretty dry.

I would think, that those sleeves should be just a bit longer than the wood, and tightened all down, the sleeve should spin in the wood, not the shaft inside the sleeve.

that would be metal to metal wear, versus metal to wood like I'm guessing it was designed.

I would oil the wood good, and maybe even sand the inside a bit, so the sleeve spins inside the wood.

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B10Dave

:D Chris; the way you put them together is the same as my untouched set. Dan offered good advice in his post. Good luck with your disc set....Dave

disc1.jpg

disc2.jpg

disc1.jpg.454e50dd5eada97b2c656a8975b376be.jpg

disc2.jpg.d0c7ab44098af232d9d385188c0bc158.jpg

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Talntedmrgreen

I'm not sure what the 'sleeve' is...mine doesn't have any inside the wood. The shaft turns in the wood bearings, and I'm betting the drier the better to keep from attracting dirt and dust. Got closer pics? I don't seem to see it in the manual.

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bowhunt4life

Yeah there are two pipes/sleeves inside my wood blocks. I loosened the nut and the lock washer a bit and all seems good.

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B10Dave

Chris; if you look at your before picture it looks like it was assembled that way to get the center discs closer and not have the mounts foul the weight box. The way you have it now leaves too big a gap and performance would be unsatisfactory. It would leave a wide strip of undisturbed soil.Also I believe single gang discs should cast the soil towards the center. If it had the tandem setup the rear gang would be set up to cast the soil outwards and the center discs would have very little gap. I believe Dan has a tandem set up.Maybe he could post a pic or two of that setup..Dave

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bowhunt4life

Dave,

I agree. When I put the weight box on it became obvious of the center gap. I debated putting it on or leaving it off but deemed weight an plus.

I am going to put a washer on each side of the discs and snug up the bolts and not over tighten and I should be fine.

I am not going to soak the blocks as I agree with Josh about a wet block collecting dirt and gunk.

Thanks,

Chris

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Talntedmrgreen

Yeah, I hadn't considered the weight box forcing your hand on the mounting placement. I scooched mine in, becuase I had no box (bot agree...weight is going to help you a lot), and then had the discs turned outward becuase I didn't want it to hill. If you turn it in, it will do a great job hilling, if that's what you're after.

Sure looks nice ^

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