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HerbP

7016H BGB weirdness.

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HerbP

I only bought this tractor a year ago and really haven't paid much attention to it... I recently hooked up the mower and found the clutch was worn so on the advice of folks here, I glued in a leather strap to the cone clutch and then the mower worked awesome. However, my son was out mowing when the tractor started sputtering/laboring. He took it upon himself to check the hydro fluid and realized it was not registering at all. So he filled it; overfilled it in fact... Unfortunately, he poured ATF into the BGB... Shortly thereafter, he pronounced that the axle was leaking some fluid. I sniffed it and it smelled like gear oil so I quickly drove it up to the shed because I didn't want to figure it out on the lawn then and there... Then it stopped leaking.

That was a few weeks ago. This week, I took it out to see if I could get to the bottom of it. I couldn't even start it. The starter was laboring ... I tried spinning the cone clutch by hand and could barely budge it. Engaging the center PTO allowed me to spin the cone clutch and hydro on the other side by hand no problem. The motor also turned as one would expect... Of course, the interlocks prevented me from starting the motor with the center PTO engaged. I took off the cone clutch thinking perhaps my leather was swollen up and jamming it up. That didn't seem to make a difference. It really seems to be something is dragging on the center PTO engagement mechanism... So I backed off the adjusting nut and locknut and was then able to start the tractor and drive it around normally minus a center PTO... I can't imagine the ATF in the BGB has anything to do with this as it feels purely not gear-related but more clutch related... There is almost no discernible play in the BGB input/output...

Unfortunately, I can't remember what it should feel like.

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HubbardRA

The bearing in the cone clutch assembly may have gone bad and siezed up. If you loosened the nut and everything spins, you may be spinning the inner race of the bearing on the BGB shaft, which will eventually ruin it. I am saying this because I had one of the bearings to sieze up on me. Also had a second one go bad but it didn't sieze on the shaft. From my experience, many times a bad cone clutch and a bad bearing are directly related and usually happen at the same time.

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HerbP

So that would be #1650264 (#11 on p26 of the simplicity parts manual)?

When I was relining the clutch plate, I tried to take the pulley off and could not get it off. I didn't try using a puller for fear of trashing the pulley, plus I was only trying to pull it off for curiosity anyway... Now that the bearing is possibly bad, I'll actually need to pull it. Any advice for that? I also couldn't get the key out of the keyway.

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HubbardRA

The pulley and bearing is attached to the pivot assembly. Remove the cone clutch housing. Remove the two pivot bolts and the actuation rod, then you can then pull the whole assembly off the BGB shaft. The key must be removed before the bearing will slide off the shaft. After it is pulled off the BGB shaft, the bearing can be pushed out of the pulley.

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HerbP

well, I removed the nut, clutch plate, and circlip but couldn't get the pulley off. However, the pulley turns freely so I believe the bearing is good. I think I must be confused about how this should work. When the clutch is disengaged, the pulleys should be pulled away from the clutch plate and by virtue of friction on the fixed mechanism that pulls them back against the springs, they should be immobile but the gearbox should be able to rotate... However, the engine is unable to start when the pulleys are pulled away from the clutch plate... When I 'engage' the clutch with the clutch plate removed, the pulleys spin freely and smoothly.

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John_in_Oxford
quote:Originally posted by HerbP

well, I removed the nut, clutch plate, and circlip but couldn't get the pulley off. However, the pulley turns freely so I believe the bearing is good. I think I must be confused about how this should work. When the clutch is disengaged, the pulleys should be pulled away from the clutch plate and by virtue of friction on the fixed mechanism that pulls them back against the springs, they should be immobile but the gearbox should be able to rotate... However, the engine is unable to start when the pulleys are pulled away from the clutch plate... When I 'engage' the clutch with the clutch plate removed, the pulleys spin freely and smoothly.


id="quote">
id="quote">LOL! You got the theory right. And it will do just as you say - IF that part that "when the pulleys are pulled away from the clutch plate..." isn't bound up on the shaft, or rubbing against the side plate of the frame.I thought I had it all figured out too - until RayS graciously pointed out my faulty reasoning - when led me to understand my BGB was boogered up mightily.

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HerbP

In my world, it takes a long time to address problems because I'm too heavily over-subscribe. Plus my middle-aged brain is foggy so it takes a while for problems to ferment... That's my excuse for taking almost 4 months to get back to this problem.

So I destroyed the woodruff key getting it off the shaft but I finally got the whole thing disassembled. What I found was interesting. Again, the bearing in the pulley is in nice shape. It spins cleanly and has just enough resistance to suggest that the grease sealed inside is nicely intact... The shaft also looks good...

However, the "pivot assembly" (1650906) and "disc brake" (173957) have been rubbing together and they are both blue which I believe explains a great deal. (P.27 of the 7016H parts list).

The tractor now drives beautifully with the cone clutch and pivot assembly removed but I would need to resolve this before mowing season...

So I imagine the problem is the adjustment of the PTO lever spring has been applying constant pressure between the pivot assembly and the disc brake and this needs to be adjusted so the pivot assembly is just hovering? Is there a gotcha here that I don't know about?

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