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bowhunt4life

More Hydrolift Issues...need help!

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bowhunt4life

I rebuilt the lift cylinder on my hydrolift. This solved the issue of let down.

However I still had a hard time lifting my 36" tiller and it wouldn't budge my 42" earthcavator.

So I took the valve body off and cleaned and replaced all the o-rings. Still would not budge the earthcavator and would slowly lift the 36" tiller.

I'm majorly frustrated with this lift. Any ideas or suggestions?

On a hunch I tried a friends back up hyrdolift and replaced my pump unit only with his pump unit. The replacement hydrolift had no problem lifting the tiller and no problem lifting the earthcavator.

Only problem is when I move the handle to lift a rear attachment I just have to barely move the lift handle if I go to far the attachments don't move at all. Any suggestions with the back up unit?

(Oh I also took the valve assembly apart and cleaned and replaced o-rings).

Thanks

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GregB

Sounds like going to far is putting you into the float mode.

Is the detented spool shaft rusted up or pitted? All the check valves working correctly?

As far as the power from the pump, Parker was making a rebild kit for the pump section, P/N is up in Tech notes somewhere. Last one I bought though was $70.00 +

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Willy

Some put washers behind the springs to stiffen them , if you have a hydo shop around close they should be able to get new springs.

Or you might be able to stretch them just a little and get by.

Good luck

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bowhunt4life

I will try the stretch option tonight.

I know there are two springs on the side of the relief valve body and one spring on the bottom of the tank face.

Thanks

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GregB

Another thought. The relief cone plunger and spring on the bottom. Is there a step on the taper, or wear on the seat? Before I "fixed" mine there was a step, this effectively shortened the spring, making the bypass valve open up at lower pressures. Spun it in the lathe and used a file to clean it up. Then put washers behind spring to adjust for it.

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GLPointon

It would be good to put a test gauge on it so you'll know is its a lack of pressure from the pump or its leaking thru the spool valve (which would be the other half of the drift problem) or if you have a weak relief valve.

Be sure the gauge is "high pressure" for hydraulics. When my relief valve stuck, the gauge shot up to 3000psi and a cylinder blew a head XX( all in about 2 seconds...

The only solution to a worn pump is a new or rebuilt one...dont know if the hydro-lifts are worth either, vs buying another unit ?

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ReedS

Parker still sells both a rebuild kit for about $80 and new pumps, which I did not piece out. The pump kits include new wear plates, all of the O-rings (for the pump) and the proper shaft seal.

I don't have a solution for the touchy control though going too far in either direction will put you into float hence the adjustable stops.

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BLT

Stamped in 1/16" to 3/32" letters near the mounting flange starting with a "D" is the make up of your pump. 10-20 numbers make up the configuration. You can download book form Parker Hannifin, "D" series fixed displacement hydraulic pumps.

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bowhunt4life

Well tonight I found the problem. I pulled the relief valve and there was major groove wore in it. I swapped out the relief valve from a buddies he let me borrow. Wow what a difference! lifted the 36" tiller no sweat at half throttle. Tomorrow I will try the earthcavator.

2013-08-16195425_zps9b55d8a0.jpg

2013-08-16195724_zpsdb55b0b4.jpg

Next question as I know this plunger is NLA, is anyone making them or can make them?

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GregB

A while back when I had my problem, took mine to work, measured it and came up with these sizes.

Reliefvalve.jpg

Tried turning one on the lathe, small dia shaft bend. I never tried to do another.

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bowhunt4life

I have a shop in town make me some new plungers with the measurements above and solved the problems on 3 lifts so far.

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rickpilgrim

If a new plunger is not available and you need it sooner I would shim the spring which would raise the pressure even with the worn plunger and last until a replacement plunger can be found and then the shims can be removed. Worked for 1 yr on our WD45 allis loader tractor when AC was on strike and no parts available.

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