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dhoadley

B&S Valves

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dhoadley

This isn't exactly tractor related so much as small engine repair, but I couldn't think of a better place to post it. I'm working on a B&S model #130232-3031-01 L-head from a small generator I was given. The intake valve doesn't quite seem to seat all the way. I've lapped the valve seat and have a couple of spots that aren't getting touched up. I seem to have no gap at the valve stem. Is there a better method than a-light-grind-on-the-end, reassemble, repeat-as-necessary? I also need to get a valve spring compression tool. One compresses from both ends of the spring, the other compresses one end of the spring and presses down on the valve from the top. Any opinions on which is better? In advance, for the advice of your collected wisdom... Thanx, Dave

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curlett

If there is no gap between the valve and tappet then the only way I know of is to lightly grind the bottom of the valve stem until it is the correct clearance for your engine. I have really good luck with a valve spring compressor that I bought from Briggs and Stratton, it's part number is 19063, it compresses the spring at both ends. It's only about $20 and it's definitely worth the money, it works great.

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Multiplicity

.

.....One of the more important aspects of "A Valve Job" is to correctly gap the valve clearances.....Give that Intake Valve some clearance now and then continue your lapping procedure until you clean up the face and seat as they should be.....Then clearance it again.....A couple of screwdrivers can remove or install valve springs of the B&S type......

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sb64

I use the compressor that goes on both end of the springs, and cost about $25, best investment ever, ever since I bought it, I haven't had a problem not getting it to fit into the opening. If you need a valve clearence source, then here you go:

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/engine_specs/briggs_valve_gaps.asp

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briggsetc

All the 13xxxx series Briggs engines were "easy spin" which means the intake valve is held open slightly to aid in easier starting. If you were grinding valves in place this makes it more important to make sure you are grinding in the right cam position.

The best way to grind valves is with the cam and lifters out.

Gary

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dhoadley

That makes sense with what I'm feeling. I thought that perhaps the lack of compression was what was causing the real problem, which is it won't run with priming gas down the throat of the carb and when it does start it won't stay running.(5 - 15 secs.) I've rebuilt the old carb, no improvement, bought and installed a new carb, still the same. I've gotten a gasket set and rings but hadn't gotten that far yet. The engine has low hours and I'm running out of ideas. By the by, I've been lapping @ TDC. Thanx, Dave

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