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Countryman93

New to me 728 need help

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Countryman93

hey guys im from Rochester,in I just picked up a simplicity 728 Broadmoor has a 1969 8hp b&s in it, runs ok and mows great. some problems/ questions ive been searching for and cant find

1. where to find ag tires and how big can I go?

2. I have to keep parshly choked while running then will start dieing until I play with choke again.

3. what does the plow blade bracket look like for these im looking for a plow to push snow and cant find anything.

4. I need muffler ideas

5. place to order new mowing blades

sorry for all the questions ive searched all the forum found a lot of information except for this stuff. thanks guys

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sb64

well, to start off, welcome to the club. And congrats on your find. To answer your first question, your local farm and fleet store like tractor supply will probably have 18x9.5x8 ag lug tread tires that's where i got mine. For the choke problem, find the very bottom adjusting skrew on the carb. then turn it to the left to get more fuel. If that doesn't work then it might need a cleaning. For the plow, go to the simple tractors homepage and go under simplicity, then your year. I use a stock muffler.

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Countryman93

where these motors pretty loud then? I feel my 728 is louder then my straight piped hemi lol. And sb64 can I get 20s on this, pros and cons? my buddy gave me a free set of chains but they are for 20 not 18

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sb64

Well I'm not sure about the 20's, someone else will know. I'll take a guess and say yes it will probably clear, but I'm not sure. When I had my 2 broadmoor, nome of them had parking break setups. I don't think they came with one from the factory. I wish they had. Yes these are very loud, and getting a hold of a lowtone muffler helps a little bit. Hope this helps.

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TomSchmit

20" tires will fit under a Broadmoor if the seat pan is raised by

inserting spacers on the 4 bolts that hold the seat pan.

The factory used 1" square tubes as spacers on the 5010 Broadmoor

that had 20" tires from the factory. Make sure you can get the original

wheels off the tractor .. . they can rust on pretty tight.

The parking brake is a small lever located on the seat pan (ie fenders,

left side below your left leg when you sit on the tractor. They are

often removed or rusted up on older Broadmoors.

I have never found any muffler that work better than the original

low-tone style Briggs part ... and I have tried various other options, including

multiple muffler set ups.

They made a whole lot of the Broadmoors so parts are readily available.

If you would like, I can e-mail the complete repair manual.

I could supply you with a parking brake set up, or even a

plow set up, but I am located in Milwaukee. Watch Craiglist for

something local for a plow, blower, tiller, unless you are willing

to pay for shipping!

Have fun! Tom

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goatfarmer

Welcome from South Bend!d:)

It might need carb adjusted, or rebuilt. Make sure it's tight to the engine, not loose. You might have a vacuum leak, causing a lean condition.

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Countryman93

well I cleaned the carb up alittle, there was a small hose on the engine side of carb that wasn't connect( goes from carb to engine) idk what it is but when I connected it, it ran alittle better but still using some choke so this weekend looks like my buddy and I will rebuild it depending on how long we hunt.

Also im repainting the tractor in pieces, I was going to sandblast all the parts but the blaster broke so im hand sanding, the people before me used a outdoor house paint it seems like lol they brushed it on and its really flacky

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mbinwi

Welcome to the group! A great place to be, and full of great people!

I have 2 738's, which are just like your 728. The little black hose is a crank case breather hose, and connecting it should have helped eliminate some of your vacuum leaks, and improve the carb performance. A carb rebuild with all the new gaskets, or at least a complete cleaning and some shop-made gaskets, should help you out a lot. You might want to add a shut-off valve and a filter to the fuel line from the tank. The manual you are getting will explain all the carb adjustments.

I don't recognize the little "plug" you are holding, but I can't get a good look at it. I don't remember any such thing on my 738's.

Have fun!

Mike.

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jklw77

On your question on mufflers,I have a 1" bore low tone briggs muffler (10hp), and it is a low a tone as I have heard,the Simplicity coffee can mufflers are even louder but larger but turn exhaust away from you towards the front of the tractor , there is a member of the club that has gone into making his own coffee can mufflers they look like originals,(check old posts) here is a good place to start for briggs stuff , www.briggsandstratton.com

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Countryman93

Is there a way to install different rims( off a craftsman that was given to me) on my 728? He gave me the rims for the tires but it would be nice to have 2 sets of working rims and tires, the long thing i see different is that the shaft on orginal wheels is longer in tye back to bolt thru. ideas how to make them work or is it not going to happen

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Countryman93

ok I was about to roll this stupid 728 into the river today because I can not get the ignition switch to work. I need a wiring diagram, and labels. I do not have lights or plan on mounting lights. I need a full diagram ive looked on the internet but I need a 10yr little boy picture please :) because this tractor is way to far from original. the PO has open wire splices to grounds and crap its really nasty. the worse part is I need it for Monday, up and running

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TimJr

I can't find any pics of it, but I have a 717 Broadmoor that I have a set of 20x10-8 ags for. Haven't been on the tractor in a while, but they fit without raising the fenders. Kind of close, but no rubbing. If you have pulley on the LH side of the trans for the PTO to run a tiller, make sure there is room. I modified my 2 speed case and used a 3 speed input/PTO output shaft and mounted a revitalizer on my tractor. The tire just kissed the pulley and burned a nice ring into the sidewall when I started the tractor up... I have a few parts around for 728/738 tractors. Tim

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mbinwi

To help you with a wiring diagram, do you have the starter/generator with the voltage regulator? or do you have the gear drive (Bendix type) starter that mounts vertically on the side of the motor? I'll try and find the links that member BLT sent me when I was looking for a diagram for my 738.

As far as the rims go, on the Craftsman stuff I have, the rims are keyed on the drive shaft, with a snap ring that hold therm on, where on the the 738 / 728, rims have a hole, and bolt through the axle shaft. I think the axle size is the same, 3/4".

Mike.

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mbinwi

Here is the link that BLT sent me for the wiring diagram for a 738, with the starter/generator and voltage regulator. Your 728 should be the same. Actually, this link is the complete owners manual for the 738. I think the wiring diagram is on page 12 of the book. See if this helps you figure out the wiring.

Also, you'd be surprised the problems that a new ignition switch cures, from charging to starting.

Another thing to check, is all of the safety switches. Try touching a jumper wire to each of the sides of the solenoid, and see if the starter/generator works. If it does, something in between is causing the problem, possibly a safety switch. You can also attach a "jumper wire" from the "S" terminal on the ignition switch to the small terminal on the solenoid, which will "by-pass" the safety switches.

I hope this helps.

Mike.

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Countryman93

thanks, and yes its already bypassed. it starts fine if I bypass the solenoid. so I thought it was solenoid got a new one and still the same problem my buddy thinks its the ignition switch????

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