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Montgomery Ward Twin 20 Won't Move


BillD

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Hi, all. I am getting a Montgomery ward twin 20 running for my nephew. My dad bought it in the late 80s, and it has been sitting for the last 5 years in the barn. Got the motor started, but I am having to rebuild the fuel pump. Motor only has 360 hours on it. While it was running, I drove it about 50 feet. It just kept going slower and slower, and now it will only barely start to move when I move the lever. I expect to have the fuel pump rebuilt this weekend, and start troubleshooting the hydro problem. It worked fine when parked 5 years ago, and drove for about 50 feet, just getting less and less power to the wheels as it went along.

I would appreciate any help you could give me to get this running for my nephew. It also has a 48" brush hog, 1 bottom plow, 48" tiller, and disc.

My understanding is this is the same tractor as the AC720 and Poowermax 9020.

Thanks for your help!

Bill

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I had a 720 around 10 years ago that started having problems moving and llifting anything with the hydrolift. I had a Fram filter installed on the transmission and found out they were too restrictive. Put a napa brand replacement on and everything started to work again.

Probably not your problem, but I'd make sure you dont have a fram filter on it to start with.

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I think you should get rid of it.I would be glad to give you a thousand for it.Just kidding I agree with the filter Check the belts also they might be slipping there is a adjustment under the tractor for that.

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You say "less and less power to the wheels", so I assume the engine keeps running well, and therefor the problem is likely with the power not going through the hydrostatic tranny (e.g. filter not passing fluid fast enough per Sam) or drive belts slipping because worn or out of adjustment clutch per ka9 (Robert). My clutch adjustment mechanism had rusted and the shaft broke when turned, so a replacement had to be found or fabricated before adjustment was possible. It's not likely the brakes are sticking or bearings seized or you wouldn't get going at all and not just experience the engine being unable to transfer power at higher revs, but make sure everything turns freely.

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quote:Originally posted by BillD

I expect to have the fuel pump rebuilt this weekend, My understanding is this is the same tractor as the AC720 and Poowermax 9020.


id="quote">
id="quote">Didn't realize the 720 was also available dressed in blue. Anyway, save your self the hassle and put in an electric fuel pump. I'd also check the clutch belts, might be old and stretched. Also check the hydro fluid level/ condition.
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As you described the problem it is likely its just the belts. Usually filters do not become blocked by sitting. You can test if it is the belts by removing the top cover between the seat and dash, and watching the drive shaft (lower shaft) it will turn slower as the tractor slows and is noticable. Get simplicity matching belts and use the procedure to adjust them per the manual.

Dan

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Thank you all for your replies.

I just got home tonight from travel. The parts were in for the fuel pump. Took about 10 minutes to overhaul the pump. Cleaned the carb bowl which I had removed, and replaced the gasket there. Ran carb cleaner through the needles, and put it back together. Put it all back on the tractor and used the primer on the pump to make sure it had fuel in the carb and return line. Hit the starter, and it purrs!!

Now on to the locomotion problem. If I have to replace the belts, how hard are they to replace? What do you have to remove to change the belts? Is the belt tension easy to adjust?

Thanks, guys. This is going to be a great gift from my father to his grandson for their new 10 acre ranch in South Dakota. All he needs now is a snow blower for the front! Anyone know how much those normally run in good shape?

Bill

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I imagine the manual must have a proper procedure, but you must have a rear PTO if you have a brush hog,tiller. The belts have to go around this, so there's not much option other than loosening the bolts on the engine pulley and slipping the belts over. It's tight, but move them on groove at a time, with the first belt behind the pulley before you fit the second - it'll make sense when you try.

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I wanted to update you all on what I found - took out the two screws on the transmission cooler, raised it up - and exactly what I had hoped for. One belt completely broken, and the other rolled in it's side and shredded. Should have it fixed this afternoon when the belts arrive at the parts store. What a relief - I was afraid of hydro or tranny issues.

Thanks all for the help and ideas. This tractor and attachments will soon be headed for South Dakota, and I will have one very happy nephew.

Bill

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Spoke too soon. Got the belts fixed, and they work fine. Took the tractor for a spin - drover about 100 yards. Bogged down and died with black smoke. Discovered that I had left the fuel float needle out of the carb. Put it back in, and it cranks but will not start. I suspect I flooded it really badly. Pulled the plugs and left them out till the morning.

Lots of cranking, and adjusting of the main carb adjustment trying to get it to run. Ideas and suggestions? How many turns out on the main jet for a cckb-ms/2440H carb? I am running in circles here, and chasing my tail.

Bill

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if it was running ok, hard to imagine the crank case is full, but check the oil level/consistency. Sounds like it just flooded severely, I guess it should without the float valve. Imagine it also kept pumping as you cranked before discovering the cause, my cckb pump always impressed me with the priming pump force, so it could have put a bit of fuel into the carb.

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Well, sometimes you feel really dumb. Today is one of them. I discovered after several hours of messing with the carb that I had hooked the governor linkage to the wrong hole in the throttle plate link. It was holding the throttle shut! Corrected that, and it started in about 3 seconds. Adjusted the main jet to 3 turns, and it really purrs.

One last item to adjust, and the tractor and attachments head north. It creeps forward when in neutral. I have read how to adjust it in the manual, should be no big deal.

Thanks to all for your suggestions and help! Maybe next time I'll pay more attention to where things hook up.

Bill

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