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ngale65

revitalizer blades needed

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ngale65

Well, have a revitalizer on my HB212. need a set of blades. I emailed a guy in the club that made a set for ray and no response. so im thinking he isnt making blades anymore. anyone else have a source for blades?

thanks

nathan

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RayS
quote:Originally posted by tadams

Are they anything like a edger blade? Maybe one of them will work.Tom


id="quote">
id="quote">I tried the edger blade route before John made my set. There are no edger blades on the market that I could find with a 7/8" hex in the middle.If John isn`t interested in making a set. I can supply a NOS blade to be copied. I will just need it back once you are finshed. If John isn`t interested, he may have a detailed drawing of one. It would be nice if there was a way of having a carbide end put on these, but more that likely would be expensive.

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tamurmueen

Good morning, folks!

I am in for a set, if anyone is having some made.

Maybe if there are enough of us, it would be worth someone's while.

But of course, we need to be sure someone is onto quality control for us.

Best, T

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rokon2813
Originally posted by RayS
quote:
id="quote">Ray, with your welding ability, have you ever considered welding the cutting edge with a hard face welding rod like some guys do with plow blade scraper edges?Just curious, I've never played with a revitalizer.

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JohnMBerst

Sorry guys, wife has had more back reconstruction (2x) surgery, and think we are back into the swing of "normal" life. Hope to get another few lots of parts made. Blades were originally just bar stock not hardened, and the parts I have made are out of CR steel.

Keep you posted as to how I'm coming on this. Sorry again for the delay.

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cschmidt62

1008 Cold rolled steel has a KSI Yeild stength of about 30 (30,000 psi). If it was me I would use a steel with a higher yeild strength.

We use a lot of 50KSI galvanized here for the building industry. Another option would be stainless steel although the cost would be a lot more. We have a waterjet here so material type and thickness is not much of an issue.

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Talntedmrgreen

Thanks John for the update.....we all know how 'life' gets.

If someone has the ability, time and patience to deal with setting up a run of these, perhaps a sticky on pricing and takers could be placed. Right now, it would be great to gauge interest and brainstorm who may be willing and what a decent sized run would cost. I would be in for a set....sounds like others would be as well. I bet the club could make it worthwhile.

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GLPointon

I would think these are a bit like edger blades which SHOULD nick/bend/dull a little vs. flying pieces breaking off XX((if they are made from hard/brittle materials)...but I'm no metalurgists sm00

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bowhunt4life

I have a set of John's replacements blades tucked away on my shelf. They are a quality product for an extremely fair price.

The blades are worth the wait.

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RayS
quote:Originally posted by GLPointon

I would think these are a bit like edger blades which SHOULD nick/bend/dull a little vs. flying pieces breaking off XX((if they are made from hard/brittle materials)...but I'm no metalurgists sm00


id="quote">
id="quote">Greg, they have been putting carbide on saw blades, router bits and metal working tools for years. All of which spin a lot faster than these will ever spin. Plus the blade is enclosed in a housing on four sides. I never had a issue with it coming off a router bit. It was just an idea. That wouldn`t be economically feasible anyway.Dan, that is a good idea. I never thought of that and I sold my arc welder years ago.I have a set of John`s blades. They are excellent quality. Copied exactly as the NOS original that I sent him.

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Willy

Well John it looks like you could go into business.

I could use a set also.

I counted eight set just in this one post.:D

Glad to hear you wife is getting better. Being and old

mailman I know how a bad back can put you down.

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