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joelk

Kohler M20 Starter - Need Help

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joelk

After putting engine back in and buttoning things up, I "tightened" the electrical connection on the starter (big red wire). It didn't really get tight so of course I just kept going and snap, the end of the stud broke off. I was still able to put the nut on the broken stud and it worked for a little while (few starts). Now I get nothing, solenoid just clicks. I shorted solenoid, big sparks, but no starter. 12.5v on battery.

What did I do? Not sure why nut would not tighten up. Is that just a stud, or what is on the other side of that bolt? Next step?

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Brettw

I know for a Briggs starter, you can buy the brushes kit. It comes with the brushes, the holder, the whole setup including the bolt and nuts you are speaking of. It's cheap, maybe 10-12 bux? There may be the same available for the Kohler.

If not, PM me. I think I have a spare layin' around.

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Multiplicity

.

....Usually inside most small starters that bolt will have a head that sits on or in a piece of insulating molded plastic that holds it from turning...It may be that it was so loose that the bolt is not being held within the plastic fixture or the plastic is cracked and useless anymore.....I've overcome some issues inside them, but can't say w/o seeing.....Depending on your experience I'm going to

be very careful recommending that you take it apart to inspect... And it may be that by continuous turning of the bolt you have twisted the wire to the solenoid off.....

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joelk

The bolt doesn't turn though... hmmm, I wonder if the nut was the wrong size? The PM had been into almost everything, and always chose the cheap way out.

Seeing how it should work, I tighten the nut further and eventually it stripped on the bolt, just spinning now.

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PhanDad

If there's enough of the stud left, find a correct size nut and lock washer and screw it on the terminal. The stripped nut will act as a thick washer. As you tighten the new nut, you may have to rotate the existing nut to fully tighten the connection.

If there's not enough stud left, maybe you can rethread the stud one size lower. Or rethread the stud to the next lower metric size.

If the inside of the terminal didn't turn and rip the internal wire off, you should be good to go.

If none of that is possible, open it up and replace the stud or bolt. That can be tricky; you have to make sure replacement stud/bolt doesn't ground to anything.

PS - the nut could be fine thread vs std thread. Also I think a "8" size nut will screw onto a "6" stud ok, but be loose; and I think the wrench size is the same for both nuts. Or it could be the "8"/"10" size that has this issue.

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rickpilgrim

IMHO when you tightened the nut so far to break the stud, it is likely that the plastic that the stud is in was compressed and is no longer insulating the stud any longer. At this point you can either repair the starter or replace it, but either way the starter must be taken out. This has happened to me also a few times.

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joelk

Thanks Rick, that sounds about right. There is definitely some current flowing whenever I hook it up directly, so a short makes sense to me. The best part was my 10 year old son was telling me to stop tightening the nut, but I of course knew better.

I should fix the starter, to better learn what happened, but Brett is setting me up with a different starter, and I want to get this tractor set up with the blower soon.... its getting cold fast.

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joelk

Got a new to me starter from Brettw. He was even kind enough to drop it off at my house and give me a pointer as to how to put it in (without pulling engine). In less than an hour, it was back in and running like a champ. Looking forward to getting the new to me snow blower mounted and ready winter.

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