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rich_kildow

7116 engine shaft specs

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rich_kildow

I must run in the right circles and always seem to come across good engines out of mowers with fried deck bearings, flat tires, or dead batteries that guys just buy a new one. Most are Briggs OHV or Vanguard vertical shafts but I do get the occasional horizontal thrown at me.

I've tried to find it but I'm not sure I have the right answer, but what size/shape shaft does the Briggs cast single 16hp in my 7116 have? I found the link below that indicates that it has a 1" x 2-29/32" keyed shaft.

http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/Items/Simplicity-7116-Category/

I'd love to replace it with a newer engine and quit chasing gremlins with this thing, but $1350 is out of the question at this point. I'm aware that there is some frame notching to be done (I have a plasma cutter) and possibly a spacer plate built to raise the engine and bolt into the right place. Anything else I need to be aware of?

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rickpilgrim

That should be a complete drop In conversion for your tractor with all the parts needed to "plug and play". As for the shaft size unless you use the front pto is doesn't matter but you can get adapter sleeves for using the front pto. I have a 20.5 hp Robin twin in our AC 912 it I don't miss the Kohler at all.

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Gordan

As Rick said, the shaft won't matter unless you're using the front PTO, but the bolt pattern on the flywheel does matter. Unfortunately, it doesn't seem like a lot of manufacturers even publish that. I redrilled a Command drive adapter to match the bolt pattern on my Vanguard but it was not a direct fit.

Wiring may also be different in fairly minor ways. Engines with point ignition need power to the coils when on, engines with magneto ignition need kill wire isolated from ground when running, engines with fuel shutoff solenoids need power to those when running or cranking.

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rickpilgrim

If you can afford it, the small engine warehouse replacment engine kit for $1350 is the way to go. The kit has the mounting plate, flywheel adapter, muffler, wiring, cables, and hardware needed to do the job. My neighbor did that to his JD 400 and even had good clear instructions and in 2 days after work the job was done with basic tools in the 2 car garage.

In 1998 we repowered the AC 912 with a Robin DB7510 V twin with 20 hp. That required a lot of measuring for crank height corrector plate, cutting the frame to look like a 7117 frame, reboring the flywheel adapter, we then put the engine in the chassis and coupled the shaft aligned the motor, mark for drilling, exhaust remake, wiring rework etc and yes it all worked but if you don't have all the tools needed to machine/cut/mill/weld and drill steel the $250 over the $1100 for the bare engine looks really good to me.

Of course Craigslist Sovereigns are less than $750 here so........

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rich_kildow

It may just be time to start saving for the engine from small engine warehouse. I didn't think of the muffler or bolt pattern on the flywheel, which makes this much more difficult that just dropping in a replacement vertical shaft in my craftsman.

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rickpilgrim

There is one other option here no one seems to talk about-rebuild the Briggs 16 you have. The last one I had done was 10yrs back and ran $575 or so but that gave me a fresh engine with no more points(magnetron conversion) to play with, a rebuilt carb and correctly set up governor. Still had the start/gen system but gave us another 945 or so hrs before we sold that machine.

Twin cylinders are smoother but you need 18hp in twin to match the low rpm torque of the 16 single and a bit more thirsty

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