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Brettw

Major Hydro Creep

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Brettw

Well, The new to me Sovereign has major hydro creep. When I say this, it really isn't "creep", it's get out of the way if you start it in the neutral position. I have read the blogs, and moved the adjustment as far as I can. The lever must be nearly 3/4" forward to keep the tractor from moving. So my question is: is there something else or another adjustment I should be dealing with? Is the shaft on the Sundstrand pump splined or can I loosen the set screw and rotate the cast actuating arm? Something is obviously not right, as I am finding many issues with this tractor. The PO must have screwed around with a number of things on this tractor, and I am straightening them out, one by one.

Any input? This thing will darn near run as fast in reverse as in forward, so something is way out of whack.

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dentwizz

Sounds like the turnbuckle linkage from the shift rod is set too short. Jack the rear up on some stands so the wheels can spin, then start it up with the seat housing lifted. Notice which linkage moves when you move the lever and turn it off to adjust the link. Trial and error will get you there, just don't adjust the linkage while it is running since you are very close to the belt;)

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Brettw

Not sure what "turnbuckle" you speak of. I should have been clearer. 7100 series. There is the rod from the shift lever, and it has no adjustment other than the "creep" setup, an elongated hole that allows you to make minor adjustments for creep. This fix will require much more than that allows. There is the spring thingy (very technical term) for smoothing out the movement, but that does not have nay adjustment that I can see. And, as I recall the shift lever bracket where it bolt to the rod, is not adjustable, it is machined for a solid connection. The only thing I can see would be where the cast iron bracket that goes over the pintle (sp?) shaft into the pump, has a set screw, and if that does not have a key, then maybe that can be rotated?

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Burntime

Brett, time to get up close and personal with your linkage. I have seen the oblong point at the bottom of the hydro lever open up, following that, the next pivot point, or the obvious top parts. I had to weld some shut on my gthl and redrill and make the new "keyway" so to speak. If you can put a motor in, I am sure you can teach it to "stay!":D

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Brettw

Thanks, Greg. Yes, I already went over this post and it reaffirms what I thought. There is no adjustment in the lever/bracket/linkage rod assembly. It appears as though all of that is not overly worn or sloppy anyway, so I do not believe that is the problem, but I will disassemble and check. Whatever the issue is, it is not a minor adjustment. Something must be installed incorrectly, and I will hunt it down.

I see a number of things on this tractor that we see once in a while when we get these: some previous owner, owner's friend, or "mechanic" that does not know what they are doing, is "fixing" things on the tractor. And stuff is reassembled incorrectly, or the wrong parts are used, or stuff is just cobbled together to make it function, even though poorly or just plain ol' wrong.

All can be fixed, and some of it is actually quite simple. But it can be frustrating dealing with these items, and the question that keeps popping up: "What in the heck were they thinking"?! Or you want to grab your air wrench with both hands, wrist lock, point it at the perpetrator and firmly state: "Drop the screwdriver! Step away from the tool box"!

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Brettw

"C & D" are at the limit of adjustment. That's the problem / question. What other adjustments are there? It does not appear to be an issue with the handle/lever/rod assembly. "C & D" are more for zeroing out "creep". This is considerably more than creep and much more than what C & D allow.

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Brettw
quote:Bolt "C" in the picture should be through a slot in rod "A". This is the normal adjustment to center the cam.id="quote">
id="quote">

It is through the slot, and I realize that this is the normal adjustment to center the cam. The cam is considerably more off center than this adjustment allows for. That is why I said, it is at its limit, and still way out of whack. At the limit and the lever still is about 3/4-1" forward of the neutral detent to keep the tractor stationary. It has to be something else, and I will find out what that is by looking deeper.

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stevenj

If I remember correctly, the adjusting Nut "I" moves the cam left & right which moves the hydro pump control arm. Read step d. . Also, make sure that you have a good roller E.

The other thing that can affect the creep is if there is a twist in the frame relative to the rear axle. If there is a twist in the frame, you can loosen all the bolts that attach the side plates to the rear axle and then jack the frame in the front to remove the twist, then tighten all the bolts. You will have to readjust the hydro linkage after. There have been other posts regarding the frame twist, seems it was more prevalent on the 900 series and later tractors, something about the BGB mounting plate not aligned properly to the frame when it was welded to the frame.

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Brettw

It's fixed. Thanks to all for the input. I ended up elongating the slot in "Rod A". Had I not been a male and thoroughly read the destructions and step D, I might not have had to do this. Anyway it's golden now.

Unfortunately, I can't keep playing, because our boiler crapped out. So I picked up a new boiler today (coulda bought a few tractors with that, ouch) and tomorrow is install day. Can you say, time to be: plumber, HVAC guy, gas piping, multiple zone re piping........... sigh. Being a bit chilly will motivate an individual!

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