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Cone Clutch replaced with electric PTO clutch


AC712H

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Has anybody replaced the cone clutch on these tractors with an electric PTO clutch? I have recently considered doing this for a challenging custom idea. Where would I begin to consider what to look for? I would like to keep the double pulley setup.

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Most of the electric mower clutche's I have seen are standard engine shaft size in 3/4", 1" and 1 1/8" and so on. If memory serves the bgb shafts were 3/4" shaft on early models and 7/8" on cone clutch units. If you get past that then the pulley issue is most of the electric units have 1 pulley and a few have 2 groves however they are for 5L or 5/8" wide belt while the simplicity pulley is 4L belt for mid attachments and 5L for rear attachments. It may be possible to adapt a simplicity pulley I doubt the belt alignment would be right. Third you need to make a plate or something to hold the stationary part of the clutch somewhere in that system and you need more room for that also.

I just rebuild the cone clutch as even commercial use machine get 5 plus yrs out of them, a bearing with bushing and the clutch drum itself are the only parts that died for me. Good Luck

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I found a clutch on eBay that has a 1" shaft,double pulley and can take 1/2" or 5/8" belts! Adapting the output shaft won't be hard. This may be it.

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There would be no safety switch

But I had thought of that too

When I first got into Simplicity

Had bought a sprag type clutch even

Do not think pull lies lined up

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Will take a little machine work (or be really good with a hacksaw) to make up spacers - but yeah, it's doable.

Safety switches" They ain't no workin' safety switch on my 1973ish 3516H - it fell off long ago.

Single-double pulleys? I only use one at a time...

...and I realized in August, that I'd put the new belt in the wrong slot back in June - it's still there - because I'm lazy - and because I'm replacing the whole shebang with a - you guessed it - electric clutch changeover this winter.

Pulley alignment? It goes where you put it - doesn't it?

1" bore on a 7/8" shaft? That's what reducing bushings are for - and they are a dime-a-dozen on eBay.

The only critical thing left is pulley diameter. Just need to get a close match to what you are using now.

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My question would be, why? The cone clutches work perfectly for decades. It seems like a lot of work just to be able to flip a switch vs. move a lever. Is this to see if you can and for fun, or are there other dark motives?:o)

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Reducer bushings are great for some things, but you would need one that is at least as long as the new electric clutch. Pulley alignment? on the 7 machines we have with them they are tight against a step in the crank and have shims a large washer and a bolt to hold them together. the closest one that is more "free floating" is held stationary with a 1/4" chain, and it turns a shaft not a belt. you may be able to mount it more in or out but serious fabrication with a lathe and milling machine would be needed to make a good lasting system. Think making a new bgb shaft with what looks like a 1" crank where the cone clutch was and 7/8" shaft the rest of the way. And what about the keyway? My hustler hydro walk mower sheared a full length key when it hit a property marking stake and it"s only 17hp. On the bgb shaft the woodruff key is down by the threads on the end not even close to the needed size and strength for this. And those universal 4L/5L pulleys are good for having a 4L belt run on the bottom, not really on the sides where it needs to. And until you have the clutch in hand and can measure how far down or how high up the belts ride in them so how to you calculate reduction/increase in attachment speeds?

You could build an electric soliniod to move the lever with a toggle switch a lot easier or even a hydraulic slave cylinder with a 12v valve if you have a hydro is possible a lot easier than the electric clutch. And if your missing parts for the cone clutch please PM me as I have a good cone clutch system on a 3416h that would cost you less in dollars/time and frustration. There is no easy way to do this that I can see

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The conversion would be for fun, see how difficult it would be. Because of the cost of an electric clutch it is reallyt no reasonable. Honest truth, I want to take my 7116H and customize it to my liking, modern gadgets yet keep that traditional look and feel.

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quote:Honest truth, I want to take my 7116H and customize it to my liking, modern gadgets yet keep that traditional look and feel.id="quote">
id="quote">

But NOT a dozen nannies, right?!?!? :Q

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quote:Originally posted by rickpilgrim

trim


id="quote">
id="quote">It's already been done.Next?BTW, noone is requiring that it be BE done...
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Originally posted by John_in_Oxford
quote:
id="quote">And if it works with all the adapter bushings, mis aligned key style and attachment speed that's great. But if you use them for mowing for a living and the adapted electric clutch system can stand the 8-9 hrs per day 5-6 days a week all summer long does it have the lasting durability of the original cone clutch? Most things I see like this are on show tractors that maybe spin the mower blades on cement but would never do the 5" tall lush lawns we do with the cone clutch. I spelled out the way to do it correctly and while I may be called a naysayer my 4 yrs of post secondary schooling tell me the free floating 1/8" x 3/4" woodruff key spun on a adapter would not even pass an MTD drawing board let alone a good simplicity. But hey, for the sake of doing/having something different its the owners machine and what makes the owner happy is the most important thing
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It would be an interesting custom, but after looking at my tractors I will save my time and money and do some other unique add-ons to my tractor. :D

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A totally cool one would be to take an automotive slave clutch cylinder, mount it under the frame tunnel and hook it to run the cone clutch using the hydro charge pumps output to an inexpensive 12v hydraulic valve. Triggers like the electric clutch unit, cleans 1 lever off the tunnel and still use the machine as before. Just one thought on custom mods

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Another thing I saw at an electrictronics store was a roughly 4" x10" high intensity led board that was 10 letter message programmable . Remove headlights, install panel with electrical switched clear/smoked overlay and let your message light the way

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