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OrangeMetalGuy

Wanted: brighter headlights, less power

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OrangeMetalGuy

Had anyone found good LED bulbs to replace the headlight bulbs in a late-model Allis (with the lights above the grille)?

I could really use some brighter light and at the same time would like to reduce the power draw.

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Burntime

But with these tractors and a 15 or 16 amp charging system it gets eaten up quick. I always put a car battery in my sovereign. Between the headlamps, electric spout rotator, 3 aux led's, coffe maker, stereo, strobe, power locks and windows, etc it really eats up the amps. Ohhh, and the cig plug for the radar detector!:P

Seriously though, 55 watt halogens are 4.58 amps. 3 of those is taxing the system with the ignition and headlamps. I had 18watt and now went to 27 watt leds that take 1.12 amps each. Sooo almost 14 amps to under 4. The electric spout rotator was an amp hog, once I switched to led's I never looked back. Also, led's do not dim at idle.

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OkieGT

What did the LEDs cost, the set I was looking at were over 150.00 a pair, I could hire herpas with flashlights cheaper

quote:Originally posted by Burntime

But with these tractors and a 15 or 16 amp charging system it gets eaten up quick. I always put a car battery in my sovereign. Between the headlamps, electric spout rotator, 3 aux led's, coffe maker, stereo, strobe, power locks and windows, etc it really eats up the amps. Ohhh, and the cig plug for the radar detector!:pSeriously though, 55 watt halogens are 4.58 amps. 3 of those is taxing the system with the ignition and headlamps. I had 18watt and now went to 27 watt leds that take 1.12 amps each. Sooo almost 14 amps to under 4. The electric spout rotator was an amp hog, once I switched to led's I never looked back. Also, led's do not dim at idle.


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Burntime

Originally I paid $200 for 3. They were 18 watts and wow bright. I just ordered a pair of 27 watt that put out 2160 lumens for 50 bucks. Halogens that are 55 watts put out 1400-1600 lumens. As you said the halogens are spot or floods. I like floods to light the whole area. The ones I had lit pretty good to see all the way down a 200 ft drive. I think they were 60 degree wide. I used the rear on my sovereign pointed down and left it on for an hour or two while the tractor was off using a log splitter. As technology gets cheaper it is well worth it!

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Kent

Another alternative that may work for some are 4" 55 watt HID lights, like these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-HID-offroad-light-with-red-ring-/130627300098?_trksid=p2054897.l4276

Note that HIDs require a ballast (similar to fluorescent lights) and these have them built into the housing. So, they're bulky. But they may work for snow cabs or the oldies with headlight bars...

They draw 55w, but they put out FAR, FAR more light than a regular or halogen bulb. They've also gotten far less expensive now that LEDs are out there...

I converted the weak original headlights on my Yamaha Rhino several years ago, and have been quite satisfied with the results...

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Burntime

Tim, most old briggs are 15 amps, I guess you can get more, but that's stock. Newer Kohlers are all 3 or 15 amp and you can get a 20amp regulator to up it. The newer vanguards are something like 3 and 16 amps. Not a ton, but will do. Volts x Amps = Watts so 12 x 15 = 180. Now the tractor does take some of that to run. Not sure how much. Aren't you a maint electrician Tim?:D

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timflury

I am an electrician Mike, but ohm's law isn't my thing, or anyone's thing, if you don't have all the info you need.

The deal is,,,,, if the lights draw more than the max wattage output of the engine, you will discharge the battery.

You will not damage the charging system of the engine if you are drawing too much current running extra electrical accessories.

The charging system of the engine will always output max wattage. The voltage regulator will control the current/voltage to the battery so it will not overcharge.

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