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jjouelle

Rear Axel Blowout

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jjouelle

While pulling a stump from a bush this past summer, I blew out the right side axel housing on my 64 Landlord. I haven't torn it apart yet, but I must have done a bunch of damage since I had no power to the rear wheels. I let it coast down to the shed and parked it. Would anyone know where I could get the parts to get it running again?

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sammiefish

it is really not clear what exactly you mean by

"...blew out the right side axle housing..."

did you crack an axle tube, did you break the cast case?

... or worse, both.

pictures would be very helpful here...

I have seen examples where axle tube has split and then cracked or broken the case itself...

I think many times this occurs when exceeding the intended purpose of the tractor itself. My 312H suffered a cracked axle tube before I owned it by the PO dragging logs from the woods to his house.

This is seemingly not an intended purpose of these machines.

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rokon2813

Agreed, we need more info.

If the axle tube broke, they are NLA I think, but do come up for sale on ebay and from members.

If the tube broke the housing, same answer (I have one on ebay)

You may have just broken up the differential too, those also come up or can be had from other members.

If you can find one close (without shipping), sometimes a cheaper and easier option is to swap out the entire transmission with a used one.

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rokon2813

Couple other things to check, the drive shaft, though when they go they usually make a BUNCH of noise.

Keys in the drive pulleys, both on the gear box and the transmission. I've seen both fall out causing the same problem.

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dentwizz

Look at the right side axle for a spiral crack to indicate that the tube is broken(the most expensive part). If no cracks are visible, try to drive it and see if the tube/differential housing spin. If they do and the wheel does not, it means the shear pins in the right hub gear are sheared(the cheapest fix). To take the hub off and inspect them, remove the axle collar on the outside of the hub. It should slide off and the gear is attached with the pins.

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Willy

Jack it up and push the axel back in as far as you can,

then on the other side loosen the collar and tap it as

close to the axel tube as you can then tighten it up .

it looks like the axel slipped and let the diff disengage.

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donmoore1904

My tractor is a later one, but the construction appears similar. The center part is a solid axle, and the outer part is the axle tube. It is common for a small crack/split in the tube to occur at the keyway, initially causing slop in the drive train. In your case, I believe the center picture shows that there is very large crack in the axle tube - the kind that may occur when pulling out a stump :o The right side of the end of the tube appears to be missing, and the left side is deformed outward if I see it correctly. "Blowing out" sounds like an accurate description, of the axle tube, not the tranny housing.

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jjouelle

I guess the picture dosn't show it very well, but the right (front) of the axle tube has a piece missing and the left (back) has a separate piece being held there by the grease. If it's just a tube replacement, does anyone out there have one? Hopefully, nothing else inside is damaged, causing the lack of power to the rear wheels. Again, thanks for the help!

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jjouelle

I've been traveling quite a bit for work and too busy to do anything with the broken axle tube on my LL. I was able to buy one from Dan... Thanks. So, if there's anyone out there that wants to have a project for pay, and is within a couple hundred miles of zip 25419, I will get the tractor there and pay you whatever we agree on for the labor to install it. I will pay for any parts required to complete the job.

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BigDeal01

How did you make out with the axle tube repair? My 312H just split the axle tube on the right side as well. Last big snow storm up here I was using the snowblower and next thing I was not moving! I didn't even try locating parts or anything yet. I was just wondering if you had to tear apart the whole tractor or if it's replaceable by removing the wheel and hub assembly and leaving the diff/trans on the tractor.

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MikeES

BigDeal, I have replaced the axle tube with leaving the tranaxle in the tractor, and I have completely removed the whole transaxle. My recommendation is to remove the whole transaxle to replace the axle tube, in the long run you will save time, knuckles, and keep your blood pressure lower.

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BigDeal01

Thanks for the info on that! I just finally started tearing into it again so I will take out the whole transaxle. I'm stuck on trying to find parts. The Allis part #'s don't seem to be valid so I need to cross it to simplicity somehow. Any one have any valid part numbers for the the right rear axle tube to fit an Allis Chalmers 312H (early 70's)? I also need to get some seals and gaskets I guess. I will know more as I tear it apart.

Thanks for all of the help!

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MrSteele

I just had that happen to me last fall. Parts are available from Sandy Lake. Looks like you need a new tube. If you are like me, you'll break the housing, clean everything up, and start basically with a new tranny and tube. I replaced the needle bearings, worn keys, seals, one shaft, went through the differential and packed it with new grease. Got rid of a lot of noise. With real bearings on the deck, the new bearings in the transmission, new bushings on the axle tube, I can hear the chain holding up the deck clanking against the frame while I cut grass.

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BigDeal01

Well I finally tore my transmission all apart to replace my busted axle tube and I found a gear inside that was partially stripped! I got lucky though, the stripped gear was a discontinued part and was $200 to buy if available but the local simplicity dealer nearby had a used transmission exactly the same with a hole in the case so I was able to buy that and use the one gear from that one. I still ended up spending a few hundred on parts though. I did get it all back together this past Monday and ole Allis is running again! I am super excited to have her back. Transmission works better than ever too! Thanks for everyone's help!

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stusnyder

Did anybody ever try to beef up the right side tube? I got a 60's landlord 2010 model 990395 that the right tube broke. After looking on here, I found it was common. Right now I'm in the process of "beefing" up the tube. I tig welded the old tube back together, found DOM tubing that just fits over the existing tube. O.D. comes out to 2". Right now I'm machining the right side cast cover to except a larger bearing and a new seal. I stuck as close to the original sizes as possible as not having to remove too much material. The new tube will be tig welded on both ends to the old tube. I'm not sure if I will machine out the differential hub or just weld the tube to the hub. I can post some pics later. Just wondered if anybody ever tried this.

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OkieGT
quote:Originally posted by stusnyder

Did anybody ever try to beef up the right side tube? I got a 60's landlord 2010 model 990395 that the right tube broke. After looking on here, I found it was common. Right now I'm in the process of "beefing" up the tube. I tig welded the old tube back together, found DOM tubing that just fits over the existing tube. O.D. comes out to 2". Right now I'm machining the right side cast cover to except a larger bearing and a new seal. I stuck as close to the original sizes as possible as not having to remove too much material. The new tube will be tig welded on both ends to the old tube. I'm not sure if I will machine out the differential hub or just weld the tube to the hub. I can post some pics later. Just wondered if anybody ever tried this.


id="quote">
id="quote">I just use a bigger tractor to to bigger stuff, you cant kill an elephant with a BB gun. Beef the axle up all you want, if your exceeding the capabilities of the tractor, something else is going to break, I mean you don't put a 10,000 pound payload in your truck bed or trailer do you? same goes for your GT, stay within limitations and it will be far less likely to break. Of course you cant do anything about previous owners, but if you as the current owner of a 30+ year old tractor are going to rely on it for your primary machine, no matter how well you care for it, it wont be long before repair cost and down time become prohibitive. I'm afraid that that fact will alter the course of GT tractor collecting/use immensely in the near future.

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stusnyder

I understand what your saying. Like using a vw beetle to pull a 5th wheel. I have no clue if the tube has been cracked for years and I never noticed it. Just moved the thing and all I heard was crunch.

So since it seems like the weak point on these machines is that groove cut into the shaft, why not do a little re-enginering? One third of that tube thickness is gone at that groove. If you have a heavier tube I think it would solve the problem.

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