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ChuckV

Starter Generator won't quit cranking

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ChuckV

My Landloard 3310V wouldn't quit cranking/starting when I finished blowing snow yesterday.

I had to pull the battery cable to get it to quit.

Is there a common source for this problem or do I need to go through the starter/generator voltage regulator troubleshooting process?

Thanks!

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sammiefish

I dont own a starter gen machine...BUT I'd be thinking about a stuck switch... maybe a little of the old NASA water displacement formula 40 solution on all your connections (WD40) first to the key switch... (you were blowing snow... water everywhere... maybe with salt which could jump or corrode a connection closed)

after that im still thinking key switch or stuck solenoid...(although solenoid stuck closed seems unusual) honestly, id be rapping on the solenoid with a screwdriver handle... hmmm weird... if it is in the upstream of the solenoid (key switch) then disconnecting the low power lead to the solenoid would stop the symptom... reconnecting it would start it again

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ChuckV

Sorry for the incomplete post...

I disconnected the low power lead and no luck.

With the solenoid connected, I get closed circuit across the main(large) connections.

With the solenoid removed, I get open circuit across those leads.

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B112_son

I'm not real sure but thinking your 3310V is quite similiar to my B112. I've had the problem before of turning my key to the off position but tractor kept on running. My problem was in switch. If I remember right itwas just a blown fuse. Not sure if this helps but thought I'd share my experience

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sammiefish

well, you diagnosed it.. you have a short to HOT upstream of the solenoid... sounds like key switch to me... what else is up there??. try spraying WD in the key hole and working the key... maybe you'll get lucky but it sounds like you need a new switch.... maybe even check that the wires connected to the back of the switch haven't overheated and melted the insulation causing the short. If you were "closed" for a while I bet they at least got warm. Ive seen that before.

My buddys JD 314 charred the harness plug from overheating and a similar issue on one of my 300's.

NAPA can probably get you going with a new key switch easily or shop around for something more affordable if you can get #'s on that switch.

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sammiefish

hmmm is it possible that something is grounding to the case of the solenoid when it it attached to the tractor it is closed...

im still thinking key switch... but removing the solenoid completely calls the question... maybe a new one is just worth getting anyway... usually about $10

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HubbardRA

I had a bad solenoid that would self-energize when activated by the key switch. Even though I released the key from the start position, the S-G would continue running. If I removed ground from the solenoid the S-G would stop spinning. Replaced the solenoid and cured the problem. This has happened to me twice over the past several years.

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midnightpumpkin

I had one that did what you are describing. It was the voltage regulator. Power was being fed to the SG armature through the small wire that goes from the armature terminal to the VR.

Connect everything back as it was originally, and remove the wire from the armature terminal on the VR. See if it still has the problem. It won't charge with the wire removed but it should start and run and shut off normally.

If the problem goes away, it is a stuck contact in the VR, which you can probably repair.

Good Luck,

John U

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ChuckV

Thanks for all of the suggestions.

After work today I tried a new solenoid and John's suggestion.

The new solenoid behaved the same as the one that was on it.

Since I am not sure which terminal is the armature terminal I tried both, 1 at a time.

The small wire by itself did not make any difference.

The small wire attached to the same terminal as the heavy cable coming from the solenoid did make it stop turning. But it wouldn't allow it to crank with the key.

Its starting to sound like a Saturday of bench testing...

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HubbardRA

I think the solenoid is wired wrong.

Should be one large wire from the battery onto one large terminal.

A large wire from the other large terminal to the S-G.

A smaller trigger wire from the ignition switch.

Also make sure that the two large wires are not reversed.

That is all that is needed to make the starter work. Any other wires that are connected to the solenoid should only be attached to the wire from the battery, because they are there to pick up power for something else.

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ChuckV

Update - It is working now!

My guess - Stuck Voltage Regulator.

I removed the Starter/Generator, pulled it apart, put fresh grease on the bearing. Wiped the brushes and armature with brake cleaner. Cleaned the wire contacts etc.

Removed the switch - cleaned the contacts.

Removed the Voltage Regulator, cleaned the relay contacts with a tiny contact file, cleaned the wires and terminals.

Put everything back together and it works fine now.

None of the wires, terminals or contacts looked bad, but I always clean them when I have them apart.

Starts, stops and charges correctly.

A little puzzled why it is working now, when I didn't really do anything, but hoping it stays that way!

Heading home from work to go try moving some snow!

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