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Rectifier-regulator again - Kohler K341


OrangeMetalGuy

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So in the last storm I noticed Allis wasn't charging. Measured the battery with engine off, 13.4VDC. With the engine running, about a volt less.

Unhooked the connector from the bottom of the r/r and measured about 22VAC from the stator.

So can I safely assume the r/r is dead? What makes these die; this is the 2nd time I've had them crap out on the same tractor.

I know if you weld on the tractor AC says to unplug it. Is it possible my small Black & Decker battery maintainer is causing these to expire?

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Some regulators have a mind of their own. For instance my Briggs regulator will, at times, drop off as far as 10 volts then kick in to around 14 volts thru its charge cycle and then drop off. I eliminated the ammeter and installed a voltmeter as it tells me more. The fact that mention 13.4 volts steady state voltage when not running tells me your regulator is doing something.I doubt if your battery maintainer would cause a problem.

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kohsta.jpg

If the stator is at 22VAC. I would say that you found the problem. The K series repair manual states if it is below 28vac that the stator more than likely needs replaced.

kohsta.jpg.ebfa719f2ba9dd083622bbfd70edbde1.jpg

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Ok tested some more. Getting a solid 29VAC from the stator with the engine revved.

Checked my other machine, a 712S and with it charging I get over 14VDC across the battery.

So I guess it's time to call Jack's for a new regulator.

I sure would like to know why these keep dying on me.

Update, Jack's can't find the right part #. Anyone know what it is; I bought one about 3-4 years ago but don't have the records of the part. This is the newer style with big heat sink.

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The spec # is 47540? The right side of the decal is torn off.

That spec # equates to a K301, because the engine has 12HP tin. But the block is stamped K341.

I think the r/r's are all the same though.

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I would certainly check the grounds and connections before condemning a voltage regulator. A loose or damaged ground could be the problem. As well as the corrosion on any point between the regulator and the battery.

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I had one K341 that had no regulator when I got it. I got a 25A bridge rectifier to change the AC signal from the alternator to a DC current. I then hooked the two wires with the DC current to a B/S voltage regulator from a S-G. It worked great for the two years I had it and was still working when I sold it.

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