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SmilinSam

Another power flap fixed up

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SmilinSam

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This is a motor BLT sent me a link to from surpluscenter https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Linear-Actuators/DC-Linear-Actuators/2-25-STROKE-LH-12-VDC-LINEAR-ACTUATOR-F681N-5-1762-L.axd I also bought the Simplicity factory bracket for the walk behind blowers flap actuator at a cost of $18, to which the dealer then added an obscene $15 for shipping this tiny lightweight partB). Wont be going there againC.

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I welded flaps on the side to lengthen them and then welded a door hinge to connect the factory flap to the spout.

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I welded pins to the sides of the big nut that came with the motor and made a bracket for the pins to ride in.

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This seems to work pretty good. Runs using a 6 tab self centering momentary bi directional switch like the electric lift setups use.Will have to see how the snow runs through it next time it snows.I also used electric tape to wrap the seams where the motor casing meets the end caps so water might not get in so easily.The only thing a guy really needs is a wiring pigtail that actually fits the connector on the motor. Didn't have one, so I had to break the plastic sides out so I could fit 2 insulated female connectors on the spades inside. Later I will get a good male/female connector to put in the line between tractor and motor. For now, I will just tape the connection up at the motor and call it in service..

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goatfarmer
quote:The only thing a guy really needs is a wiring pigtail that actually fits the connector on the motor. Didn't have one, so I had to break the plastic sides out so I could fit 2 insulated female connectors on the spades inside.


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No, Sam, the only thing a guy needs is someone to drive the darned thing for you, so you can watch from the house!

Nice job on the modification!

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SmilinSam
Originally posted by goatfarmer
quote:
id="quote">What fun is that?8CIf it helps, a couple years ago I had the wife out front of the tractor with a shovel breaking the super tall drifts down for me while I drove the tractor/blower:O666&:)

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SmilinSam
quote:Originally posted by RayS

Sam, do you have a mfg. no. for that blower hitch and any pictures?


id="quote">
id="quote"> I can get the numbers(if they are still on it) and post back here later.( no go on the numbers, burnt them off while I was cutting) However, the hitch I used on this was the actual hitch for the Prestige/Conquest/Broadmoor designed to use the new style blowers. I modified the hitch to use the old style blowers by cutting the hitch arms that stick out off by around 8" and trimming the "u" channels so they ended up just being flats sticking out to fit into the blower to pin it on.These mods are not reversible, but there are a whole lot more older blowers out there, and cheaper, than the new ones.

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dhoadley

What fun is that?8C

If it helps, a couple years ago I had the wife out front of the tractor with a shovel breaking the super tall drifts down for me while I drove the tractor/blower:O666&:)

Wow, she's a keeper!!dOddOd:D:D

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SmilinSam
quote:Originally posted by PeppyDan

With all the snow we have gotten recently I started thinking I need one of these on my blower and remembered your post. Have you been able to give it a good test yet?Dan


id="quote">
id="quote">Yes, and this setup modifying the factory flap as such does work real good. Works better than the one I built previously using just a flat piece of steel with sides. the curve to this one seems to help with less snow going back towards the backside of the blower when angling the flap down.

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PeppyDan

Thanks Sam, that's what I wanted to hear! My blower is a 46" two stage on a Sunstar and it already has a flap similar to your modified version so now I need to order to motor and get mine modified.

Dan

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SmilinSam

A year later now, I don't know how great these Surplus Center actuators are. Worked all last winter. Now after sitting all summer it wont work. Got power to the wires hooked to the actuator. and a good ground. Has to be in the motor....

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SmilinSam

The 12v power side of the switch checks out, maybe the ground side of the switch is bad. I'll look at that tomorrow...as well as jumping the motor direct without the switch

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SmilinSam

motor was fine. Tested it with a 12v NiCad tool battery and some jumper wires.

Finally found the problem in a loose wire connector on one of the ground wires on the switch.

Its working again nowdOd

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by SmilinSam

motor was fine. Tested it with a 12v NiCad tool battery and some jumper wires. Finally found the problem in a loose wire connector on one of the ground wires on the switch.Its working again nowdOd


id="quote">
id="quote">dOd

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