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3416 rear end swap


EdFromMason

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Well given I can not seem to be bright enough to locate the upload photos button on the posting page I will try to describe them to you. The 3416 I have is all original other than the generator that is new. It does not have hydro lift it is manual lift. It has the oil cooler on top of the rear end under the seat. To engage free wheeling on it there is a lever that you take from up & down & you turn it side ways.

The rear end I have to swap it out with must have come from a unit that was fully hydro as the forward-neutral-reverse is on the rear end its self I see no such bracket on the 3416. It must have had the new style free wheeling lever that you have to push the lever down on the top that pushes your hydro drive plungers down in order to free wheel. The spot where I have the lever is solid & has no way of putting such a lever in it. The only other difference is the rear end oil filler/check tubes one has a long tube coming out the back(3416). The other one has a short one coming out the back & one on the side that has one of those bolts within a bolt where you turn the smaller of the 2 to check your fluid level.

As far as I can tell if I do the swap I will lose the free wheeling part of the whole thing. Maybe more I am not sure. Losing just that would make moving the tractor without it running very hard.

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Your 3416H has a Vickers from the factory. What you are describing that you have for a replacement is a Sundstrand. The Sundstrand was used on the later models with the same frame. The Sunstrand was first used in the 7000 series Simplicity and they continued to use that same transmission for 25 years or so in the large frame tractors.Your frame may not have the lower bushing - tube welded in the side of the frame for the hydro speed handle used with the Sunstrand hydro. It could be welded into the frame though. If you feel like replacing the frame I know I have atleast on spare frame here, but you would have to transfer everything over to it. Which is that big of a deal since you are splitting the tractor anyway.You are not all that far from me here in Michigan. I could even weld the tube into your exsisting frame but then I would have to destroy the other to get the bushing out. I will send you my email address in a private message then you can send the pictures and then I can upload them for you.

7106h.jpg

3146h.jpg

In the two pictures above of a 3416H and a 7016H you can see the difference in where the handle for the hydro are located. Since the 3416H used a Vickers and is older it doesn`t have the tube welded into the frame for the handle used with the later modle tractors. Not sure if you have the linkages and handle for the Sundstrand either but they would be needed.

7106h.jpg.cfd2296356cc14dd5576c5ed2f1e04af.jpg

3146h.jpg.aca0209649e3b2b2539e887fd6b75289.jpg

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Ed,Welcome to the club. To make a Sundstrand work in your tractor you will need the side plates and all included parts between the transaxle and the bevel gear transmission. Here is a picture of mine from a 7116 Simp.The 90 deg. bent tubes on top are for a hydraulic lift which you don't need. You will also need the cooling fan and cover and the correct belt and guards which I have off mine for painting.

Sundstrandrs.jpg

Your project is do-able, but you almost need a complete parts tractor for a donor. Good luck, Jim

Sundstrandrs.jpg.e01af591591098348d49d70cf7fafd24.jpg

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The swap you are speaking of is fairly involved, as shown above. There are the linkages, the mounting plates, drilling and welding for the hydro lever, and other misc. items to be done before this would be a running unit. What is the issue with the current rear end? Perhaps we can help you with that.

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I assumed he had a complete rearend to swap from the description above. Biggest issue with Vickers are if the pintle shaft doesn`t already leak it soon will (because they used a hardened steel shaft on a soft cast iron casting with no bushing) and the swash plate wearing to the point it doesn`t want to move (mainly in reverse).

Hopefully he has the whole rearend.

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Well talked to my dad. He said the pin that is missing apparently is the one that engages the drive in the transmission. Apparently it fell out some how. But I have no way of knowing what I am looking for on it.

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Untitledvvvc.jpg

The lever to engage and disengage the vickers is circled in yellow. The operators parts manual that I posted in the other link describes the operation of that lever. If it will not engage. Try rocking the tractor back and forth while trying to move the lever. They get rust on the shaft tend to stick. Sometimes some PB Blaster or WD-40 will loosen them up.Someone could very well have forced the engagement lever in the past and broken the shaft on the inside. Don`t ask me how I know this:D. I have broke a couple of them myself on the inside.

Untitledvvvc.jpg.1575433758caeabdc4ee9ea0232859ac.jpg

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