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MrSteele

One for the ?????Head scratcher

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MrSteele

My Landlord, with a freshly rebuilt tranny hasn't seen a lot of use since being back in one piece. It sits quietly in the shed, waiting. Friday afternoon, the temps were in the low 50s, sun shining, leaves dry, so I decided it would be a great time to give it a workout killing leaves. OK. I have never had a problem with the engine since rebuilding a couple of years ago, til Friday afternoon. It ran great after a slow start to get the oil/grease in the tranny sloshed around again. Then it changed its mind and died, like I had turned the switch off. Since I had not, I choked it and it started right back up, stayed running for a while and died again. Pulled the fuel filter and changed it. Ran a while and died. Started and readjusted the carb, it ran a while and died. Started it so many times that I finally ran the battery down, and had to boost it to get it into the shop. Charged the battery, cranked right up Saturday morning, but I heard a strange noise. Finally got tired of restarting, parked it and let it cool down.

When cool, I took a wrench out made a few turns, and the problem is gone. You folks that work on these let this alone. The rest of you, what did I adjust, tighten, or beat on with the wrench? I have never had this problem with the old style parts.

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Architectdave

My 3314 used to start and run great then die. Turns out the strainer in my tank had a tear and the outlet on the bottom of the tank was backed with varnish and sediment. She would sit and fill the system with fuel over time but when she ran she would dry up after a few minutes.

I recommend a full removal and clean out of the tank and the hose port where fuel comes out. If that doesn't solve it move to the shut off then filter etc. Good luck.

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donmoore1904
quote:Originally posted by Architectdave

My 3314 used to start and run great then die. Turns out the strainer in my tank had a tear and the outlet on the bottom of the tank was backed with varnish and sediment. She would sit and fill the system with fuel over time but when she ran she would dry up after a few minutes.I recommend a full removal and clean out of the tank and the hose port where fuel comes out. If that doesn't solve it move to the shut off then filter etc. Good luck.


id="quote">
id="quote">I don't know if you are in the running for the prize in this contest, but what you wrote is along the lines of what I am thinking may be my issue with a motor that dies every so often. I've had a sneaking suspicion it is related to the tank/filter.

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johnmonkey
quote:id="quote">
id="quote"> Bob, I wouldn't necessarily post that right above your picture!
quote:id="quote">
id="quote">

That brought a smile to my face....who is it that always says "welcome to the zoo"? jh

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MrSteele

Guys! or Gents, or, to be completely politically correct down south..Ya'll!

Kenny hit it perfectly. That engine has run perfectly for at least 2 years without a hiccup, tank after tank, hour after hour, no problem at all. Last weekend, the head bolts were loose??

My comment about the old style parts..in the old days, we used a pierced steel head gasket that could be used over and over until it finally blew. Now we have that composition that compresses, and I suppose that over time, it compresses to a point that the bolts need to be tightened as a routine maintenance item.

As for my tank/outlet screen/filter system. I relined my tank, removed the screen and valve, and put an inline valve close to the carb, with a filter between the carb and valve, when I relined the tank with Red-Kote 8 years or so ago.

Sometime between now and grass cutting, I'll likely replace the head gasket just because of that strange sucking noise while it was turning over to start. I might have a gasket with a thin spot that is going to blow when I don't want it to blow.

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HubbardRA

With the dimpled style of headgasket, if it leaks, you will need to remove the head, remove the gasket, and clean the surfaces of the head, block and the gasket faces. If there is a leak, the dimples will catch carbon, oil, or fuel. If you re-tighten the gasket with some dimples containing contamination, then the gasket will not completely seal regardless of how tight you make the bolts.

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timflury

From my motorcycle riding hobby, I usually do a "nut and bolt" check on my machines. Early last spring when I brought my LL out of its winter's nap, I went around the machine and checked. Some of the small screws that hold the side covers on were loose, the lower bolts for the grille were loose, one missing, and huh, ALL the head bolts were loose.

These tractors vibrate quite a lot, more so than most motorcycles.

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rfsmith1952

They do vibrate to the point where bolts and nuts should be checked on a regular basis. The PO of my T-10 used a dab of paint on each nut or bolt head the paint marked the bolt and the frame or piece so that if there was any movement the paint dab didn't line up. I find myself visually checking the ones that are marked much more often than ones not marked.

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MrSteele

Got it in the shop to replace a tube in the front tire, then since the wheel was off, repacked the front bearings, while it is out of service anyway, the cover is also out of the way with the head off, or, coming off this weekend. Will pick up a gasket early next week, weather permitting

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