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johnmonkey

Length does matter

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johnmonkey
I'm wondering if anyone has an AC 916(single cylinder Kohler). If so, can you measure the driveshaft for me? I've replaced a twin cylinder Kolher with a single cylinder Kohler. I've been told it will bolt right in, and it does. However the driveshaft comes up short. I have the, I'm guessing newer, model 7117H with the with the black rubber compression coupling that is about an 1 and 5/8 inches thick. My driveshaft is about 17 and 3/8 inches from flange to flange, and I'm about 2 inches off. I got my tractor running, however I'm not comfortable with the setup. I'm using cheesey 5" bolts from sears with (3) 1/2" spacers and the hydraulic pump pully from a B-112 along with a couple of washers to make up the diffenence(distance wise this does not add up, I used (1) 1/2" spacer to back the bolt out a half inch then the compression coupling followed by the washers then the (2) 1/2" and lastly the pully). It should be noted though that, I do not have the adapter plate assembly(stamped piece of sheet metal). Reminds me of when I was younger. Sure it works, but if it lets loose I think it will kill someone if it doesn't seriously hurt them. If any one could post the measurements of the driveshaft for a 916 or 7116(briggs engine?) it would be most appreaciated. Lastly if you could post a pic of the area where the flywheel and driveshaft come together, on the 916/7116, that would be great also. Thanks, John Ps Just trying to practice safe tractoring.

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SmilinSam
You bet It matters. I wouldn't run it with the makeshift setup you have rigged. I had a driveshaft come off once, not a pretty sight, nor experience, especially since it came off on the gear box end at full throttle. I'll look in my pile but I don't think I have a long shaft . Got plenty of "fiberglass" couplers ( not metal) Let you know tomorrow. Sam

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Guest
John I have a 916h and the shaft on my machine is 19 1/8" long the coupler is about the same as the one you have. Hope this helps.

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SmilinSam
Ok I went out and did some measuring. 1 5/8" rubber coupler and 17 1/4" or so shaft is right for the 7117. I have a 917 here that I put a single briggs in. I used the rubber coupler and a 19 3/4" drive shaft out of a earlier 912 that still used the fiberglass discs rather than the rubber coupler. It was a tight squeeze, but it works. The last time I just used the fiberglass dics with the stock pipe type spacers. That worked too, and a much easier fit. I dont have any of the 19 3/4" shafts at the moment though. Here is what I have found, and feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. The Older tractors B-10 through B210 used a 18 3/4" shaft. The 7000 series Simplicities used a 18" shaft. The early 7100 series used a 19 3/4" shaft with the fiberglass couplers, and the later units used the 17 1/4" with the rubber coupler. Procedure for instaling the shaft using the fiberglass dics goes something like this: Slide the yoke on the Bevel Gear box shaft but do not tighten. attach the fiberglass dics to the driveshaft sandwiching the disc between the two heavy washers on each hole before bolting to shaft. (these washers are "Special" in that one side has a beveled edge. That edge goes towards the disc. The flat edge goes towards the bolt head and shaft respectively. Put the shaft up in position and bolt it to the yoke on the Bevel gear box shaft , again sandwiching the disc between more of those washers before running the bolts through. Next, bolt the other end of the shaft to the engine using more washers and also using an appropriate sized thick walled pipe type spacer (max 1" long)( Simplicity used these 1" spacers on the 7000 and early 7100 series. there were shorter ones used on the older tractors.) This operation may require a little dexterity and patience. You can slide the yoke on the gear box shaft back and forth to help, but you must keep the yoke fully on the shaft. Once all those connections are made you can tighten the set screw on the yoke. I hope there is something there that helps. If it raises more questions, I'll try again. If something there is in error, like I said, by all means correct me. Sam

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johnmonkey
I used the fiberglass coupler on my '63 monkey wards gardenmark on the engine end of the shaft and I still am not sure that I installed it correctly. Someone wrote a response that explained how to install the coupler but I'm still confused on how to install it (not unusual for me to be confused). I was hoping that Bill from Sandy Lake could do a simple drawing of the installation. Sandy Lake did fax me a copy of an exploded view of the coupler but the picture quality was distorted by the fax machine. I will need to replace both couplers on my 1960 700 wonderboy. So any diagrams from anyone would be greatly appreciated. Happy holidays to all. Thanks John

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MikeES
I'm confused. Because I have swapped a M20 into a 912 and the flywheels end up in the exact same place requiring no changes in the drive shaft or couplings. There is a drive shaft difference between the fiber disk coupling (on all except later 7100/900 seies) and rubber coupling. So use the rubber coupling on the K341 (16hp) from the 7117 it should work. My experience anyway. Good Luck! Mike S.

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johnmonkey
MikeES, I'm assuming that the 916 and 912 share the same driveshaft, since they are both single cylinder engines. I went to the Kohler site and could not find the M20, they only show upto the M16. I'm going to assume that the M20 is a twin V engine simular to the Command line? In either case. The command twin V seemes, in the pictures I've seen anyway, appears to be a "thinner" engine then the KT17 that was in my tractor. From the specs on the Kohler web site the M16 and the CH20 appear to be very close in length. This may be why you had no problems. These observations are based on some assumptions, so nay not be right. Not only do I like figuring out why things don't work, I also enjoy figuring out why they do. John When I get rich this is the next engine that I want to try to swap http://www.kohlerengines.com/images/detail_photo/eng_aegish22.jpg

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MikeES
John, the M20 is the newer version of the KT19 (flat, opposed twin) the M18 is the same as your KT17. The M20 and M18 have electronic ignition and fixed high speed jet carburetor. The front to back, top to bottom dimensions are the same for all 4 engines. The KT19 and M20 are wider side to side (longer stroke). I went out and measured 4 of my 7 tractors (I didn't measure the HB212) a 3314, 3414, 712, 917 all measure 18 3/4" from fiber disk to fiber disk. Good Luck! Mike S.

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BillC
If your driveshaft is too short, have alter it. Mount the driveshaft is a lathe and cut the weld between the shaft and the end flanges. Machine a new shaft to the correct length with the pilot ends for the end flanges and weld the end flanges. Then face cut the end flanges to retrue the shaft and install.

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    • Dean McFadden

      Dean McFadden

      Good morning peeps! I’m always searching for helpful information with my AC collection. Hope to find out new information and pass on my own experience in restoration. Here are some pics of my babies. I’m still looking for front rims for the 410 so yesterday I put the 310 wheels on took it for a drive. Working pretty good but still needs some carb work. Gotta get the 310 running next. Have a great day!😁
       

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      thedaddycat  »  SmilinSam

      It's in pretty sad shape, but yes I have a yellow plastic cap that I'm fairly certain is what you need. PM me your details and I'll get it out to you.
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