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QAFarm

Got sent here for 3415 help.

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QAFarm

Hi everyone I picked up a 3415 recently and am in the process of cleaning the crust off of her and making a running working tractor out of it. I was lead over her from another site to see if I can get some answers. With the build up of gunk I could see I had an oil leak and I had no spark. So I pulled the motor out of the machine to get a better view plus I wanted to pull the blower tin off to clean under there. To get parts I know I need the model ,type and such number. I for the life of me can not find it. I thought it was usually stamped into the blower cover but where? Also to get the blower off I need to remove an adaptor? That the starter/generator belt goes on. I have the screen and the two bolts off. Do I need a puller to remove it or a few taps with a soft hammer. I haven't had time to do anything in the rear of the tractor yet I did find though someone has pulled they hydro filter out. Hopefully no damage. On a side note I think I found the oil leak. When I pulled the motor out the oil pan fell off. Hmm maybe the bolts were a touch loose. Found the gasket in pieces around the outside of the pan. Thanks for any help guys.

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BLT

Welcome to the club. The engine model, type, and S/N should be stamped on blower housing approx the 8 0'clock position facing out.

If it is a newer engine it is stamped on the 12 O'clock position.

The original engine should be model, type, 325431, 0126-01. Imbedded halfway in this manual is a Briggs repair manual. http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-5-4240-501-14-and-P.pdf

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QAFarm

Thanks for the welcome. And thanks for the information I think that is the one place on the blower I haven't cleaned off yet. I believe it is the original motor. The whole machine looks in molested. Only thing is that I am kind of thinking that may apply to things like oil to.

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QAFarm

Thanks Wiily. Wow this is much better I wasn't getting much help on the other site. So I put my model number into the briggs site and they have zero info. Is it to old? Where do you all order parts for these old girls.

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by QAFarm

Thanks Wiily. Wow this is much better I wasn't getting much help on the other site. So I put my model number into the briggs site and they have zero info. Is it to old? Where do you all order parts for these old girls.


id="quote">
id="quote">PM me with your E-mail address and I will send you a parts list.

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fishnwiz

Welcome to our house Duane!

I dare you to find a better or more helpful site than this one! If you are really serious about fixn your tractor, the guys on this site have a vast array of incredible knowledge with all things Simplicity and Allis Chalmers.

This would be the BEST 10 dollars you ever spent so please give serious thought to joining us for the long term.

Again, Welcome and good luck on your project.

Fishnwiz.

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QAFarm

Thank you for the welcomes guys. I have another question. As I go through this thing deciding what need replaced. I have no spark. Is there a way to test the coil? Things are pretty gunked up under there. I was just going to replace it however it was a bit spendier than I thought so I thought I'd clean it up and give it another try.

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fishnwiz

Sand paper folded over will work but you should use compressed air to clear any sand or file dust out so points close all the way.

Recheck gap for .020 setting.

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Mike_H

Try putting the model number in like this...

325431 0126 99. For some reason, the online parts diagrams don't like the 01 designation, 99 seems to be generic. I think its just a paint code anyway...

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QAFarm

Well I was afraid this was going to happen. I have it open now I am fighting the urge to rebuild it. Lol. I do actually have some concerns about the rod. When I turn it over by hand at TDC I can feel and here a slight clunk. I honestly don't think the oil was ever changed in this machine. Ever. Oh my god it smells nasty and the oil pan has an 1/8 inch of tar like sticky sludge in the bottom. I keep going well you know I could take that off and clean it and that. Then that. Well I guess time to brake out the measuring tools and start measuring. See if things are still useable. A ton of carbon on the piston and valves. Are valve springs something you guys replace when you have one apart? There cheep and on the motors I used to build they were a every 4 race maint item but these are a bit different. Lol.

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QAFarm

It's as apart as I hope to take it. The crank and cam are still in it but I'm hoping to keep it standard bore and just put rings in it. I need to measure the bore tomorrow to see if that gets to happen. The valves look pretty good I'm just going to lap them back in. Have a lot of cleaning to do also.

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QAFarm

I think the rod is done. I can feel play in it. I brought the tools home to sit down and do some measuring tonight. But I think I'm glad I took it apart because I think it would have tossed the rod very shortly.

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QAFarm

The rod measures 3 thou oversize and 5 thou oval. I think I made the right choice. Cyl bore is right on the edge of tolerance but round so I think I'm going to put rod and rings in it. Valve springs lap the valves some new gaskets and get her in the garden tilling.

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powerking_one

Duane,

IMHO, it sounds like this engine/tractor was seriously neglected-abused (based on all the tar-sludge stuff in the engine/oil pan). The crank rod journal spec is 1.3114-1.3118" (new) with a reject size of 1.3094". If you measured the rod itself and it had that much wear, I bet the crank journal is pretty worn too. If you plan on keeping/using this tractor, I'd think it'd be prudent to do a proper full rebuild on this engine. There's a guy on "ePay" that sells aftermarket rebuild kits which have a good reputation of decent quality. Machine work for boring and crank turning should be around $100 or less in most parts of country, but vary. If the crankpin is out of spec and with a new STD rod, it will surely be a "knocker".

http://www.ebay.com/itm/for-Briggs-and-Stratton-Cast-Iron-14-16-hp-rebuild-NEW-/120876784849?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c24d15cd1

Tom(PK)

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QAFarm

Well bummer this has gone from a freshening to a rebuild. Sucks for my pocketbook and time to spring till. Ill have to see if the greenbacks will allow for spring completion.

Crank rod journal measures 1.075 so going to have to get the crank ground and a bore job. I have the equipment to bore it myself but I have to have the crank ground so I may just have them do the bore also. Now I have to find a small engine shop capable of the work.

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powerking_one

Duane,

I think you must be a "little" off on the crankpin measurement (1.075"). Even if it had already been .020" undersized, the would put it in the 1.29x" range.

Tom (PK)

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QAFarm

Ok so there may have been a 3 left out of the last measurement. Need to write stuff down anymore I guess. I can't seem to remember stuff like I used to. Ok so the crank measures 1.3075. Crap that doesn't make me any happier. Oh well it's only money I guess. And the wife just went back to work whooo tractor money. Hmm now to tell HER that lol

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