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Injector pump on diesel

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Guest
I must get this out up front... It's embarrasing, but I must be honest.........I took my tractor to a dealer to fix.

My excuse is that with two youngins' around the house I don't have the time I used to to turn wrenches, smoke cigaretts, cuss and spit.

So here's the deal. Tractor stored for long time, and was not stored correctly. I changed the filters, checked the lines, blew out the screen, drained and cleaned the tank, pondered my lack of experience with diesel engines and ran it for a while. Then it stopped (for real). I took it to a dealer (whom I will not "bash") , and he took it apart and came up with the following prognosis: fuel injector pump is toast. I learned the following: the original seal (factory) had been tampered with before for some reason (perhaps earlier service) and two, that the dealer is checking the output pressure on the pump (ie: how much fuel in its' diminished state it is pushing). The problem may have arisen from long-time improper storage (the same malidy I am suffering from). So, I wanted to ask the experts: I am facing a $600 repair (pump worth $550). and I have no choice but to continue, otherwise my wife will be able to use the "I told you that you shouldn't have bought the tractor" offensive strategy.

My question is thus: is this a good prognosis from the dealer? Is checking the output pressure enough to diagnois the pump? Is there any other critical component I should check prior to replacing the pump? Is there any other service I should perform now, so I don't blow out a new pump? and finally, is it worth it?

Thanks for your help.

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Al
We had one of these last summer and the customer decided not to fix it. I like diesels and when the Lombardinis (I assume you have a 7790) cme out I jumped in with them. We only sold 2 or 3. They have a lot of power, but are too noisy for many people, and shake a lot. We currently have a customer with one with a bad mechanical knock. He is considering putting in a Kohler TOC 18 (99 Sovereign) engine. These engines are cheap compared to the old KT and Magnums. His decision is also based on the local unavailability of parts and the high cost of the parts compared to gas. I have no recommendation, as it is a personal decision. The injector has to have the pressure to work and the one last year had a bad pump. I am only posting this to mantion some of the other options. Good luck, Al

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Fred
Hank,
I have no real Diesel experience, but would think that you might be able to get the pump rebuilt at a Diesel injection shop. Not a truck dealer, but there are shops all over that support fuel injection. I doubt that Lombardini built their own pump; if you're lucky it might be a Bosch, which could easily be serviced anywhere in the country.
Hopefully another alternative which might be cheaper than new.
Fred

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Fred
Hank, Lombardini--is or was a div of B&S they have a headquarters in Atlanta,I don't have their # or addr. right now but will look for it.If anyone can help you I'm sure they can. Regards dlc

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Guest
Just out of curiosity, what is a ballpark # for purchase of a Kohler TOC 18, and how difficult is it to retrofit an AC920 (same as a 7790). This sounbds like a good option, if not for now, maybe later on down the road, as the tractor body is perfect, along with the attachments. Thanks for the help. HankD

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Thanks Al, any info would be extremely appreciatted. Hank

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Fred
Hank,
My Kohler distributor advises me that the TOC-18 is not yet available over the counter, only on an OEM basis for now. When it is available, he's guessing it will be $1600 to $1700.
He is also of the opinion that the way to go on any Sovereign-type tractor is to use a Simplicity-spec Command 20. These are readily available from Kohler and would sell for about $1600 or $1650.
I don't know your location, but if you are anywhere near the Milwaukee area I can get that for you for rather less than that price. Shipping it a long distance would negate the advantage.
I seem to recall that you mentioned "almost had to replace the pump", in a later post. Did I miss something? Did you resolve the problem with the Lombo? Hope so.
Fred

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Al
Hi. I have put a couple of the TOCs in 7100s. I just order the spec for the Sovereign and got my first one about 6 months after they came out in the Sovereign. For the TOC we use the choke, Throttle cable, muffler, heat shield, exhaust pipe and adaptor plate from the Sovereign and is is nearly a bolt in fit. To do the twins you may have to cut the frame if original engine was a single. Make a template from a Sovereign to match the engine you are using. For the Command we do the same, but you don't need the adaptor plate. We have also put Commands in including a 25. in a 7100. With is you have to trim 2 fins on the oil cooler to make it fit. For no harder than a 48" mower works it it should be no problem. In the 7000 and 3400 series we commonly use Vangard twins, because of the way we do the mufflers it addresses a clearance problem. With a Vangard you also must use the remote oil filter kit. Makes a nice 7000 or 3400. I will check but I believe the TOC has been about $100 to $150 less than the Command to us. I may be wrong and will advise in the near future if this is not correct. We have a number of TOCs out in various brands, and so far it has been totaly trouble free. Since the block, cylinder heads and intake manifolds are cast in one piece, no gaskets, no bolts a lot of potential trouble gone. I have some step by step pictures on various swaps that I hope to post in the future, maybe this fall or winter when I can breathe a little again. This is my 2 cents worth, and its free so you can see how little it may be worth. Fred (our central is Medarts in St Louis, and they have been able to supply us TOCs). Good Luck, AL

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Al
Caution! Replacing any of the battery ignition engines requires switch and wiring changes to keep from destroying the solid state ignitions in the new engines. Ot tiny glitch of 12 volts on the kill line and they are gone., and that is not warranty. Don't forget you still need 12 volts to the carb selenoids.

Also on the Vangards you must use the booster fan from the opposed twin and an adaptor to couple it to the engine. The booster fan then couples to the driveshaft. The first Vangard I did shortly after they came out, Briggs engineering made me the adaptor and told me what parts to use to get the driveshaft to adapt. I saw one in one of their tent exhibits a Snapper shaft drive re-power exhibit. I asked and they told me who to call about how they did it. I did he helped and it worked. The parts are now available.

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Fred
I wonder why he doesn't think he can get them? I normally trust the info from this distributor. I agree that the TOC is a nice design, and would have suggested it first if not for the question of availability. Besides, Simplicity has already engineered the installation for you.
Fred

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