3416H

[littlemarv]

Picked up this 3416H the other day. One of the guys at the B.S. session said its an early one because the hood and wheels are gray. I don't know if they are rare or more valuable or what, but it doesn't really matter to me anyways, as this ones gonna be a worker, 16 horse, hydro, electric lift, perfect for snowblowing (with a few Littlemarv modifications).

The hood seems to be interfering with the S/G.

The lining on the cone clutch looks pretty thick, I guess, never having seen one before

Checked the BGB, looks like theres work to be done here..

Quite a bit of play. Oh well, it'll be good to inspect and change fluid and seals anyways.

Some work to be done on the carb as well.

So, today I took the hood and seat pan off, and pulled the motor to give that a once over.

So, the MFG # is 87102002The engine numbers are 326431 2582-01 86010114Is this the original motor?Thanks for any help.

[GrincheyOne]

SO cool, and hard to find close to here!

Health issues, prevented me from attending a fantastic overall auction ,

about 2 yrs ago!

Super work hourse!

Wayne

[fishnwiz]

Sweeeeeet!

Nice find.

[RayS]

It is not the original motor. It is about 12 - 15 years newer though.

[Chris727]

The first two numbers of the "code" indicate year of manufacture. That engine was manufactured in 1986. It is new enough that it came from the factory with magnetron ignition so you'll never have to worry about the points.

[PhanDad]

Yup, definitely not the original engine. The S/G fits pretty snug. Here's a couple of pics of a 3416 I picked up last spring:

Maybe the belt on yours is too long. Also, at least 2 different types of S/G mounting brackets were used on Simplicity, A/C, and Homelite tractors. A low mount and a higher mount. They take different belts - 37.5" vs 39.1". My A/C B110 and Hometlite T-12 take the smaller belt; a Simplicity 7016H takes the larger belt. I think the 3416 calls for the larger belt also.

[MikeES]

Looks like it has a belt on the S/G that is too long, which pivots the S/G away from the engine too far.

[BLT]

Here's your operators manual' Your tractor is a 990871 S/N 2002.

1973-74 production year, but with a four digit S/N, my humble guess is a '73 version.^

http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/heCBEN8arK7rE3CNj5kbp796Dq.pdf

Novel way to keep the cap on the end of carb.)

[littlemarv]

Thanks for all the info guys, the underhood shot is a dead match to PhanDads.

Bob, I can't believe it, I actually found the operators manual myself! Took awhile on Simpletractors to find the model number.

I put 326431 2582-01 in to partstree and looked up a gasket set for the engine. In the set, they show round gaskets for the end covers, and peanut shaped covers for the balance covers. Were these engines available with different balance gears? Mine has just the regular four bolt cover on the PTO side.

The repair manual Bob sent me for another motor covers the 320000 series, so I should be set there. Just need to be sure on the gasket set.

Thanks again, fellows.

[SmilinSam]

My first big Simplicity garden tractor was a 3416H bought at a auction cheap. I repainted it, and eventually put a Sundstrand tranny in it in place of the ever leaking Vickers. Sold it and moved on to another. Was a really fun tractor and enjoy the memories of it.

[Chris727]

Marv, the balance gear cover is underneath the flywheel on a 16hp engine.

[littlemarv]

Yep, I spoke too soon. I just popped the blower housing off and there it is!

I put my spark tester on and took the plug out so I could spin it over by hand, I unhooked the kill switch on the blower housing, and the other wire goes to where the points would be, to a plastic insulated terminal. I have no spark. I read in the manual that magnetrons need 350 rpm to spark, so I'm assuming I'm not spinning it fast enough. I may put the pulley on and use a rope and try that.

[littlemarv]

Put the pulley on, pulled it over with a rope, got good consistent spark. Whew! What is the notch in the piston for?

And how does that magnetron work anyways? What triggers the spark?

[timflury]

The magnetic field passing by the pickup triggers the spark.

You will actually have a spark at TDC of the compression stroke, AND at TDC between the exhaust and intake strokes.

The welch plug on the carb is a hole filler for an electrical enclosure. I like the way it is attached.

[BLT]

Notch on the piston is an installation reference I believe.

[curlett]

If you are planning on snowblowing with the tractor I would check and make sure the front clutch will fit on that engine. I have a 7016 with a newer engine in it and the crankshaft is different on the pto end where the front clutch goes. Just a thought, good luck!

[littlemarv]

Well, I've been slowly but surely working on the tractor.....Put a gasket set in the engine, checked everything over while I was in there, it all looks good. Put a carb kit in, stripped the nozzle, drilled it, heated it, and extracted it (whew!) and put a welch plug in it, so should be all set.Added a front PTO-

Then, I split the tractor and dug the BGB out. I assumed that because the right pulley was loose, that was the cause of all the gearbox slop. You know what they say about assuming....I tried tightening the nut, to no avail. Uh oh. Its tight. Pulled the pulley off, and found the key was smeared flat, and the pulley and shaft looked like this.

I thought this was a machined groove in the pulley, but after a little discussion with rokon, found it must be that the spacer wore into the pulley that much from one turning without the other.

The shaft is actually worn away on the side away from the keyway...

The bolt in the input shaft that holds the gear on was backed out and actually rubbing on the other shaft. This BGB is actually in pretty bad shape. But, I will win. I thought about buying a used BGB, but then you could be buying all the same problems, or even worse ones. If I fix this one, I know what I've got.

So, I ordered three seals from my local dealer. Took the shaft to a machinist, and told him to give the shaft a 1/4 turn and cut me a new keyway.

Looks pretty good. A pulley from rokon should be here tomorrow, then I will take care of the sloppy shaft.

Put in the input seal, I always pack the backside of seals with garter springs with grease so the springs don't pop out when you tap them in.

So, I got the input shaft assembled and installed, waiting on a pulley and one more seal.

[ss74nova]

Nice find Ryan. The early to mid 70s RBTs are on my wish list someday. Like the looks of them with the large openings in the grille & the side mounted headlights.8D

[fishnwiz]

Nice job on the sequence of nice clear pics!

[littlemarv]

Well, its supposed to be cold this week so I figured I'd best be getting a little work done out in the garage. I noticed the throttle cable was bent, so I took that out whilst the motor and gas tank are out, cause otherwise you'll never get to it.Got the cable straighened out, worked some PB blaster into both ends for awhile, freed up pretty good.

Need to do some work underneath, so to make things easier I threw a ratchet strap over a rafter.

Went to install the linkage for the front pto, found the plug for the safety switch in like new condition.

Got the linkage and lever installed, boy there sure is a lot of stuff crammed in there. Hopefully when the tractor is all back together and sitting on the ground it will all clear, cause right now the clutch rod and pto rod are rubbing.

Found the steer axle to be in the usual condition. That will get taken care of later.

While I was in there, I removed this stuck pulley, tapped the bushing out of it, cleaned out the rust, greased her up, and reassembled. I'm guessing this is for lifting the mower deck and I hope to be mowing with this tractor soon.

[MikeES]

The notch on the piston faces towards the magneto/flywheel.

[littlemarv]

Mixed up a batch of JB Weld,

Let it cure a little, then slid the spacer over it to get the shape close,

My little helper, hopefully the JB Weld comes off.

A little emery cloth, looks pretty good!

[littlemarv]

I keep a roll of gasket paper on hand to make my own gaskets. I have a gasket set punch at work, so I cut out the gasket, got a little help from the best tracer I know to mark the holes, punched the holes, and reassembled.

Good as (hillbilly redneck) new!

[littlemarv]

Got the BGB back in, and chassis reassembled. Dropped the engine in, installed the driveshaft, and turned it over by hand to let the engine settle in to its home, then tightened the motor mount bolts. Choke, throttle, fuel line, etc, etc.Chopped this rats nest out- it contains stuck and rusty switches, old brittle wires, and lots of twists and tape repairs.

Really, for a test run, all you need is a jumper to get it started, and a jumper to ground out the magnetron when you want to shut it off.Engine oil inBGB fullHydro fullRear end fullGreaseFired it up for the first time in a few years, warm up, tweak carb, install seat pan, and out for a victory lap. Everything seems good, got back in the shed, bleeding hydro oil quite bad. Rplace rubbed thru line and refill. Install hood, took light pods off as they need a little tlc. Got quite a bit of work yet, the starter generator is all starter and no generator. Probably from the terminal hitting on the hood fried that half. I have an idea to get around that, especially since I plan on putting several worklights on it for blowing snow in the dark. Those and the electric lift would be too much for the S/G anyways.Need to get going on the deck- if it ever stops raining I will have to mow....Pair of Sweet Sixteens.....

Now I just need to find a two for one sale on seats, as they both are lacking in that department.

[sispro]

I like those headlights