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rfsmith1952

Christine the Homelite T-12

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rfsmith1952

This possessed tractor just does not want to participate. JIMDK found it a few years ago. It's an Allis-Built T-12. Owner said take it or I'm scrapping it. It was winter, Jim was too far away, but I was close so I had the guy bring it up. Back wheels were locked up; we had to chain it to a tree and drag it off the truck. Shift Shaft was inoperable AKA Drive-Neutral Lever. Man I had parts all over the garage floor, and no clue. Got it fixed, could lock and unlock, but Christine would not move. Picked up one of Maynard's Vickers rear ends from a club member in Indiana. 2-day trip, with gas, hotel and reasonable price for complete rear. That almost fixed it. It still won't go up a grade. But I think it's just the belt is wrong, stretched or wore out. So PO took the front PTO off making her virtually useless for anything but pulling a wagon. I found a front PTO from a Deere that would work, two decks from another club member and yet another deck from Ebay. Finally got to the PTO and Christine wouldn't start. New battery cable, took electronic ignition off, put points back in, and a solenoid and off she goes. Got the PTO installed and operational today.Here are pics of installation, including a little U-Bracket to keep the unit attached to the engine. Runs good. Hot to the touch though. Installing a deck is next!Bob

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rfsmith1952

Well I learned a lot. These guys in this club are just great. They have good answers and great patience in dealing with us newbies. (Although I think I am a journeyman now.) I'll stay with it, and since I'm retired, there's no hurry. No pressure, just personal satisfaction. Christine worked for twenty years, then sat for twenty years, and although many times I've thought about parting her out, I still want to wait and see if she will cut grass, and plow snow.

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PeppyDan
quote:Originally posted by rfsmith1952

Well I learned a lot. These guys in this club are just great. They have good answers and great patience in dealing with us newbies. (Although I think I am a journeyman now.) I'll stay with it, and since I'm retired, there's no hurry. No pressure, just personal satisfaction. Christine worked for twenty years, then sat for twenty years, and although many times I've thought about parting her out, I still want to wait and see if she will cut grass, and plow snow.


id="quote">
id="quote">But be a little worried about your loved ones if she starts popping her own dents out or repaints herself8)XX(Dan

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JimDk

Bob,

It's good to hear that you are giving the T-12 some TLC. Good luck with that Vickers. Hopefully, a belt will fix it.

By the way, thanks for giving me credit for finding that fine tractor for you.:D:D

Jim

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rfsmith1952

No. Just one. Rest of the holes don't line up even close. Thought about making an adapter plate. Bolt the pto to the plate and the plate to engine. I honestly don't think it's gonna hold up. I thought maybe Ray or Bob Tiarks would caution me there, and provide an alternative.

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RayS

Phandad ( Bill Engle) used one similar to this. He mentioned using a finger to stop it from rotating. I think you are good to go. His post is archived. Could always add another.

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PhanDad

Bob,Looks like that clutch should work for you. What's holding it on? Usually there's a washer as wide as the inner race of the bearing and a bolt threaded into the end of the crankshaft holding the washer against the bearing race clamping the clutch against the "step" in the crankshaft. Here's a pic of the front of the Homelite with the clutch mounted. This setup has a spacer in addition to the washer since the crankshaft is longer than the depth of the clutch:

FailedElectricClutch_0006.jpg

My first Homelite front electric clutch failure was caused because the bolt fell out and the rotating element started wobbling and short out the field coil. This was the stock 2 piece "old" style clutch where the field coil mounted to the block. And one "U-bracket" should be enough. It only has to stop the momentum when the clutch engages and disengages. Your bracket is similar to the one I made when I installed a new style clutch on the 16HP Briggs in my GTHL:

Electric_Clutch_Finger01a.JPG

As to heat, my PTO does get pretty warm, but I've only checked for heat with the clutch under load after running awhile. The Homelite clutch doesn't have any braking feature. The newer clutches do, so maybe it's still dragging when energized and the clearance aren't set correctly. I wouldn't think the current passing through the field coil turning to heat would be enough to make it hot. How hot does it get if you just energize the clutch without the engine running? If it doesn't get hot, then something's not right. Also make sure the clutch has a good ground wire. If it doesn't I've heard that the clutch will ground through the crankshaft and lead to other troubles.

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Electric_Clutch_Finger01a.JPG.e58d2eca29a0a47e26bf101508b966bc.JPG

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rfsmith1952

GOOD CATCH!

You're absolutely right Bill, there is nothing but the U-bracket holding it on. I know the manual PTO I put on the T-10 had a washer & nut to secure it.

I just looked, and there is a threaded hole in the end of the shaft. I will try to get a washer to ride the inner race and a machine-thread bolt on it.

And that is as far back as I can get PTO to go, so I have yet to see if the 78.1 belt will work.

Thanks!

Bob

I can just see Christine shootin that PTO (or parts of it) out the front grill.

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BLT

Have you gapped the clutch? Usually it is about .010 to .012" That will make clutch perform better. Also burnishing the surfaces does it good. There should be something in the manual Goatfarmer listed.

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