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PhanDad

46" Blade Wear Plate Dimension

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PhanDad

I'm going to make my own wear plate for my 46" spring trip blade since Briggs wants $80 for a new one. I've already reversed it, so both edges are worn.

So does anyone have the measurement for the original width of the plate? I figure an extra 1/4" sounds about right.

Also, any tricks for making the holes rectangular for the carriage bolts? (besides filing corners into each drilled hole or giving up the carriage bolts and using cap screws).

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SmilinSam

2 1/2" wide... now that I measure on a good one I got recently..

which is disconcerting to me, as I just put a 2" piece on one of mine..and now I see after a season of use is not really tall enoughXX(

I have always just drilled round holes and used the next aixe smaller carriage bolts, or ground the corners off the carriage bolt square parts to fit in the hole...

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Willy

I just drill the hole to fit the bolt and draw the square shoulder

of the carriage bolt into the hole, that keeps the bolt from spinning when you try to take them loose.

I have a blacktop drive, to keep from scratching it up I cut apiece

of conveyor belt about 3 1/2 in wide and put it behind the wear

plate and let it stick down about a half in, when it wears down

I just turn it over and use the other side.

It works as good as the wear plate and it keep me from having to

replace the wear plate.

I have a large driveway and I do the side walk for the whole block

and 2 of my neighbors drives and the belting is on its second

year and still good for one more at least.

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GrincheyOne

Bill,

1. If You are determined to have square holes for the wear edge, search on You Tube for "square holes". I will have the same issue when I replace the front plate on my Weed Cutter. My local welding shop has a broach punch to do the job. ($?).

2. Zippo once recommended visting the local highway maintenance yard for the availability of their discards.

Wayne

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stevenj

I wouldn't worry about having square holes. Just use standard hex bolts with a nut and hold the bolt head when tightening. If you don't want the look of a hex head, you could try using a button head socket head cap screw with an internal allen head hex drive. The button head looks closer to the carriage bolt, but all the ones I've seen are not plated and will rust, so you will have to paint them after assembly.

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