sispro Posted May 14, 2014 Posted May 14, 2014 Has anybody try to use silver paint or the chrome paint. I am wanting to paint all my bolts and handles either chrome or silver but the problem I have ran into is I have tried some but if you rub your hands on it it leaves it on your hands no matter how long it's been on it still does it.
littlemarv Posted May 14, 2014 Posted May 14, 2014 I painted an air cleaner cover chrome once, looked perfect until you touched it. Seemed like the paint was actually "standing on end" I guess I'd call it. Once you touched it, it was like you knocked it down. Really lost its shinyness then.
sispro Posted May 14, 2014 Author Posted May 14, 2014 Yea that is what I run into also you can't clear coat it cause it turns it Grey
GrincheyOne Posted May 14, 2014 Posted May 14, 2014 quote:Originally posted by rokon2813works okay if you clear coat afterwards id="quote">id="quote">I agree Dan, Just sold one to Mike Lyons. However, I used Rustolium Chrome.Enamel & clearcoat, but it was never exposed to the elementsSpeaking to an Engineer at Rustolium, He said 'cuse it is an Interior Chrome Enamel. It tends to "flake". I have not tried the Rustolium Chrome Enamel for wheels yet! There is also a metallic "high heat Metallic Silver Enamel by Rustolium, recommended by Zippo to use on my 14 HP B&S. Again I have not tried it! An another approach I know is available is Chrome "powder Coat".Cheers,WayneBTW - The first time I tried it, it appeared to be faceted. Kinda neat!
GrincheyOne Posted May 14, 2014 Posted May 14, 2014 An after thought, You can always use the Greg Pointon approach. Clean it down to bare metal and buff the dickens out of it, then clearcoat it! )
Talntedmrgreen Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 quote:Originally posted by GrincheyOneAn after thought, You can always use the Greg Pointon approach.Clean it down to bare metal and buff the dickens out of it, then clearcoat it!) id="quote">id="quote">Thats my prefered method....gotta be vautious with the prep and clearcoat used though. It doesnt like to stay on bare metal or can go foggy. At least youre not out much if it doesnt take.
acken Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 I have used the Rustoleum Steel colored Wheel paint, with clearcoat. So far I have been pleased with the results, undetermined how it will last. When applying the clearcoat it does look a little cloudy until it drys. Be careful not to get either the color, or the clear too thick, the runs tend to make it blotchy. The color can actually be put on quite dry, the clear coat will bring it back to a shine.
Brettw Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 Not sure what bolts you speak of, but a new bolt, either Zinc or Chrome plated sounds like it would be, by far, the easiest and in the long run, least expensive way to go. Handles and such, if they were Chrome to begin with, they can sometimes be cleaned up with buffing or steel wool?
sispro Posted May 15, 2014 Author Posted May 15, 2014 I am restoring my 7117 but it is going to be 917 I don't want to use zinc for if you don't paint them they will rust. Chrome bolts will cost way to much.
ss74nova Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 I'd use Stainless steel bolts, although they would cost more.
timflury Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 I'm having all the bare metal parts from my Wonder-Boy plated in zinc. Barrel plating in my area goes for $40.00/dip. Now that's 40 for all the pieces that fit into the barrel. If you're keeping your nice restored machine indoors while you aren't using it, then you will have no issues with rusty bolt heads. I have replaced fasteners on my equipment years ago and I have no rust issues. Paint has a tendency to flake from zinc plated fasteners, and then theres the issue of peeling the paint off the bolt heads when you take a wrench to the bolts.
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