Smolenski7 Posted May 20, 2014 Posted May 20, 2014 So here's my most recent problem. I got home today a bit early so that I can do some yard work. The first thing I did was clean the deck pretty well and I removed the roller assembly off of my 22/44 Regent. I never took the roller off before, but it was pretty easy. I put the deck back on, adjusted the height to about 3", and started to mow the lawn. At 3" it would only remove about 1" of grass. After about 40 minutes of cutting I noticed that the deck was starting to smoke under my left foot. I took the deck off and the grass around the left arbor/pulley was definitely black and the pulley and especially the hub adapter (I think that's the correct part) were hot! The tractor has about 270 hours on it and the belt has never been changed. Upon inspecting it, it does seem to be in rough shape, but I don't know if this is the cause of the smoke and is a result of the smoke. So, I'm definitely going to order a new OEM belt, but I would like to know if it is the cause of the smoke. Any help would be appreciated.
Brettw Posted May 20, 2014 Posted May 20, 2014 It sounds like a bearing at the arbor / pulley you speak of probably is shot. It is causing extreme resistance on the belt and generating extreme heat. Before you install a new belt, I would check that that arbor is moving freely. I think it may not be, and all you will do is fry a new belt. PS I thought if you lived in Washington or Colorado, I was going to ask: "What is it smoking?" 8D
Smolenski7 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Posted May 20, 2014 quote:Originally posted by BrettwIt sounds like a bearing at the arbor / pulley you speak of probably is shot. It is causing extreme resistance on the belt and generating extreme heat. Before you install a new belt, I would check that that arbor is moving freely. I think it may not be, and all you will do is fry a new belt.PS I thought if you lived in Washington or Colorado, I was going to ask: "What is it smoking?" 8D id="quote">id="quote">Well, I did pull the belt by hand and the belt did move as long as I put enough tension on it. How can I definitely check this?
Burntime Posted May 20, 2014 Posted May 20, 2014 Take the drive belt off and the belt that connects the 3 arbors, then spin each by hand. If its bad it should be pretty evident...
Smolenski7 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Posted May 20, 2014 quote:Originally posted by BurntimeTake the drive belt off and the belt that connects the 3 arbors, then spin each by hand. If its bad it should be pretty evident... id="quote">id="quote">Why would I have to take the drive belt off? The deck and the drive belt are separate. I attached a diagram from my manual that shows the belt and arbor that are causing me the smoking problem. It's labeled "C".Sounds like I just have to remove the mower deck belt and try to spin the arbor, can I do this simply by spinning the blade underneath that arbor? If it is hard to spin, then the bearing probably needs replacing? Correct, or is there something else that needs replacing too?
B10Dave Posted May 20, 2014 Posted May 20, 2014 You are correct. If arbor C does not spin freely with the belt off it will need new bearings....Dave
Smolenski7 Posted May 20, 2014 Author Posted May 20, 2014 So, if it doesn't spin easily then the bearing is bad. If that is the case, is there anything else that I should replace at the same time, or just the bearing? Should I replace the bearings in the other arbors too? The belt does look like it's in rough shape. It looks like it's starting to split and is frayed, plus it has 260 hrs+ on it. I would like to replace it, but I'm having a tough time figuring out it's model number. I went to Jack's Small Engines, entered my model number (2690575) and have it narrowed down to 2 different ones. It's either, 1729627SM V-BELT, Arbor Drive, 44" (Must be used with deep-groove pulley) or 1732957SM V-BELT HA 126.14 LG (Must be used with deep-groove pulley. Any help?
JJ MARSHALL Posted May 20, 2014 Posted May 20, 2014 raise the hood some of the simplicity have the belt number inside. JJ
Smolenski7 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Posted May 21, 2014 Thanks guys for the help. I'll look for the belt number in the hood, I totally forgot about that. I think it's there. Should I replace all of the bearings instead of the 2 in that particular arbor? That's my gut feeling. Also, I'm fairly handy, is this something that I can do fairly easily or is it something best left to the pro's?
Burntime Posted May 21, 2014 Posted May 21, 2014 You will see when you pull the bearings off if it did any other damage. By removing all the belts you are getting the true feeling without any additional drag. If it were me, I would do them all. Its usually the main drive that goes first. The others usually follow. By the time you are done you will be really good at it! The most difficult thing is to get the arbors appart. Not a difficult job at all, just takes some time. Take the arbor out and give it a try, worst case you saved some shop time and can take just the arbors in. It starts with one repair and you will gain knowledge and confidence. Before you know it you will be an old pro!
RayS Posted May 21, 2014 Posted May 21, 2014 If I was going to replace the bearings in one arbor. I would do them all. Why risk having to do another in two months. As cheap as they are it makes sense.
Smolenski7 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Posted May 21, 2014 I'll pull the deck off this afternoon and check to see if the bearings are bad. I know my local dealer has what I need and even a new belt. He's a bit on the expensive side, so I'm questioning if I should buy from online and save about $40. If the bearings are fine, what, besides a stick or something, could be the cause of the smoke?
RayS Posted May 21, 2014 Posted May 21, 2014 What`s expensive? OEM bearings are $8.00 each and have a life of 500 hours. My last OEM belt lasted 12 years. Seems cheap.
Smolenski7 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Posted May 21, 2014 Dealer: Belt- $80.93 Bearings- $11.09 each Total- $156.83 w/tax Jack's: Belt- $57.35 Bearings- $5.30 each total- $104 - $116 (depending on the bearings I buy)
RayS Posted May 21, 2014 Posted May 21, 2014 I have these bearings in two decks for past 3 season or so. No complaints. $23.88 shipped is a good price. http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=bearing+1185828&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313&_nkw=bearing+z9504rst&_sacat=0
Smolenski7 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Posted May 21, 2014 So I just checked everything out and the blades, all 3, spin perfectly freely with no noise whatsoever. There is still a smell from the arbor in question and it is very black from the heat. The belt is obviously worn and needs replacing. I started off my first post by saying that yesterday I took off the entire roller assembly for the first time ever. I then put the deck back on the tractor and cut the grass. Could removing the roller assembly put added tension on the belt that created too much friction which in turn caused the smoke and the belt to wear out? I am going to check the bearings in that arbor anyway, what should I look for specifically?
RayS Posted May 21, 2014 Posted May 21, 2014 Does it have a plastic idler pulley? Does the idler pulley turn freely and move on it`s bushing freely?
Smolenski7 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Posted May 21, 2014 Scratch my last post, I just opened up the arbor and the ball bearing fell apart. That must be the problem.
Smolenski7 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Posted May 21, 2014 Below is a picture of the arbor assembly. When I opened the assembly on the right, the steel balls from the bearing fell right out. The outer steel ring of the bearing is still there, however. I can't seem to get it out. Any help? The assembly on the left is from another arbor that was working well. I think that is the ball bearing in the middle. I would love to take it out and change it, however, I can't get it to come out either. I've never opened up the arbor assembly before, so I am assuming that what I am looking at IS the ball bearing (looks pretty cheap since it's made of plastic). Can I get some help on how to remove it? So far I've whacked it pretty hard with a flat head screw driver and a hammer with no luck.
RayS Posted May 21, 2014 Posted May 21, 2014 Should drive out fairly easy with a hammer and a punch. The plastic ring is the seal.
Smolenski7 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Posted May 21, 2014 Are these the only bearings that I should replace? There are 2 within each housing. The other one appears to be very difficult to get off because it is attached to the arbor shaft with different metal "rings" that don't appear to come off.
Ronald Hribar Posted May 21, 2014 Posted May 21, 2014 What keeps the back of the deck off the ground That it's what the rollers are for
Smolenski7 Posted May 21, 2014 Author Posted May 21, 2014 quote:Originally posted by Ronald HribarWhat keeps the back of the deck off the groundThat it's what the rollers are for id="quote">id="quote">There are 2 cables with lift pins that suspend the deck off of the ground. The rollers, when down, certainly take all of the weight, however, when the rollers are lifted, the cables do the job.My better half thinks that it is more than coincidental that I had the smoking problem only after the rollers came off. In the back of my mind, I fear that she is right.
Ronald Hribar Posted May 22, 2014 Posted May 22, 2014 Those are lift cables only The deck is designed to run on rollers all the time That is why Simplicity has a great cut And yes the belt was also holding deck off ground when you removed rollers Probably why bearings/ belt fried
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