Bearing replacement on spindle?

[mroman59]

I have to change some bearings on my 7117H deck spindle and have a few questions and I do know these are sealed bearings:

1. Some threads on this forum have talked about using a sealant. I believe that it is between the top and bottom arbor housing. I asked the Simplicity dealer and they said no sealant is needed and it would not help anything. They said there use to be gasket that went between the top and bottom, but they don't sell it and the parts diagram does not show it. They said it really didn't do anything. The mechanic said as long as you install the notches in the correct place to align the top and bottom and get a good fit there should be no need for a sealant. What is your opinion? I assume people are using sealants because they believe that water/dirt will get in from this area.

2. My new bottom arbor housing has a grease fitting in it. All the originals do not. Not sure why that is. Putting grease in the fitting only fills the area between the bearings and not above the top bearing or below the bottom bearing. I noticed that on the bottom of the bottom arbor housing there is a cover with holes in it. I assume this is to allow any water to drain out. This appears to still be a possible entry for water and dirt. Do any of you fill this with grease to keep out dirt and water? What about the top cover also? This appears to be a potential area for water or dirt to get to the top of bearing and should one put grease inside the cover before installing it?

3. When installing the bearings on the shaft, is there and special technique or tool that should be used. They seem to be a tight fit even when the shaft is greased and I want to press them on without causing and damage.

Thanks,

MR

[BLT]

I use an a RTV to seal both ends. The parts book I have shows to use something. I also use grease zerks, it's easy to drill and tap in new ones. As for bearings , I tap off old ones by threading ends with capscrews of arbor shafts hold the ass'y and drive it off with hammer. If stubborn I center shaft loosely in vise jaws to give me something more solid. I drive shaft on new bearings the same way.

[mroman59]

quote: If stubborn I center shaft loosely in vise jaws to give me something more solid. I drive shaft on new bearings the same way.id="quote">

id="quote">

Do you place the bearings on the top of the vice while driving the shaft on or should the bearing be set on a block of wood with a hole in it, larger than the diameter of the shaft? My concern is when taping the shaft through the bearing hole that the bearing sitting on the vice, i.e. metal to metal may cause some damage to the bearings.

Or are you holding the shaft in the vice and tapping on the bearings? If you use this method, how are you tapping on the bearings without causing damage? I was thinking you would need to you a pipe that fits over the shaft onto the center ring of the bearing, which should be the strongest part and tap it onto the shaft. Using a pipe over the shaft to tap on the bearing would at least give equal pressure all around the bearing as you tap it on.

On average, installation of new bearings should last how long?

thanks,

MR

[BLT]

Set the new bearing on an old bearing or two and then tap it far enough so it straight on the shaft. Practice with a couple of old bearings.

[OrangeMetalGuy]

The grease isn't intended to lubricate, just prevent rust inside.

[GrincheyOne]

I always begin with a liberal coat of Lubri-plate or white Lithium grease, before assembly. In the older deck housings, there is a 1-1/2" spacer, 3/4" ID, that goes between the inner races of the bearings. The bearings should be installed with the seals to the outside to control any moisture/dirt intrusion. As mentioned above grease is introduced into the housing to prevent rust inside the housing. I "handpack" the housing with a good marine grade grease.I am in agreement with BLT when it comes to the use of an ATV sealant (which is mentioned in IPLs for several of the decks) I know it is in the IPL for the newer 36"" decks! The downside of zerks in the housing, is the potential of over pressuring the grease and dislodging the seals out of the bearings.

I also agree with the use of old bearings being used to set/seat the new bearings, since this applies like force on both the inner and outer races.

Wayne

[mroman59]

quote:The bearings should be installed with the seals to the outside to control any moisture/dirt intrusion.id="quote">

id="quote">

The bearings I purchased for my simplicity 7117H were the ones suggested to buy from eBay in a thread couple of years ago. I purchased a pack of six. These bearings are the same bearings that would also fit my 6216. I don't know about bearings purchased from a Simplicity dealer, but there is no difference between the top and bottom side of the bearing. Both sides look identical, therefore I don't know how I would ensure that the seals are installed to the outside.

Maybe I misunderstood your comment about the installation procedure, but if I were to show you a picture of both sides of the bearing, you would not be able to tell them apart.

Thanks,

MR

[BLT]

At one time bearings were shielded in on side. Today both sides are shielded.

[rokon2813]

The bearings Wayne refers to have only one seal. Yours have 2. They are a sealed bearing.

If by chance the seal is rubber or plastic, many guys remove one seal, and put that to the inside, then grease does get to the bearing.

The sealed bearings from the factory lasted 20 30 years, so the design is fine.

[mroman59]

quote:The bearings Wayne refers to have only one seal. Yours have 2. They are a sealed bearing.id="quote">

id="quote">

thanks, both sides of my bearing are metal seals so I guess I cant make a mistake when installing.

MR