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sispro

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Chris727

As far as spray can paint I have not had great luck, even the OEM paint chips too easily. The automotive paint in a gun, without too much hardener is usually pretty tough.

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GrincheyOne

I have to defer to Ray's basic rule, "It is all in the prep work. A good cleaning, a good compatible primer coat, a good quality enamel", basic spray, or rattle can. Follow the temperature/humidity guidelines.Time limits between primer/finish applications.

I have used good quality TSC enamel over certain primers, and had blisters. Painting over a coat of epoxy can be tricky, resulting in a leather like texture to the finish. Artificially accelerating the curing of any layers of coats can loosen the bond between layers.

I think we all agree how really tough a Factory Allis finish is, even after 45 years.

One last thought, pay attention to the area surrounding the piece being painted, overspray can be disloged and get on the freshly painted surface.(most commecial paint applications are done today in a water wall booth).

TMO, and I stand by it.

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sispro

Has anybody used that RUST-OLEUM professional primer I have used it on a couple of pieces and had to go back and remove some of it to fix something and let me tell you I had to really sand to get it off. Now I am not sure how it works under paint yet.

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Brettw

For rattle cans in black, silver, and some of the offwhites, I have found Ace Hardware brand paint to be quite good. They have a great spray tip, and they seem to cover good and dry very fast. Although not technically correct, I have been using Allis Chalmers orange, as it that color formula seems t be available in most hardware and farm stores.

My question would be, does anyone have a better thought on rattle can orange paints? I have found that the orange color seems to be difficult to cover in less than 2-3 coats?

As it is, I think on the next full sized project I am going to fire up the spray gun and use the hardeners, etc as others have described.

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ss74nova

Haven't used a spraygun yet, but used rattle can engine enamel on engines (good to 500 degrees F) & inside the engine compartment on my truck. For car & truck engines I didn't even use primer. Just degreased it well, remove all loose paint & heavy rust, wipe down with alcohol or brakeclean, blow dry & paint with engine enamel. I think it has hardeners in it already because it doesn't wash off when you spill gas or brakeclean on it & says on the can gas & oil resistant. I painted my truck engine 4 years ago & it still looks great but it's out of the sun. I also painted the mower deck on my 63 Broadmoor with Duplicolor DE1607 Chevy orange/red & used it for 3 seasons & it still looks good but it's stored indooors out of the sun. They may fade faster if you leave them outside. I used Rustoleum low gloss black engine enamel in the engine compartment in my truck but I also primered it first with rustoleum rusty metal primer. Seemed to come out good but it's out of the sun. I think better brands like Duplicolor & Plastikote engine enamel would work better. If you keep your tractor out of the sun when your done using it I think these would be fine for quite a while. The only problem they aren't always the right shade as the origonal color but the Duplicolor DE1607 chevy orange/red comes very close for the 1960s Landlords & Broadmoors.

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CTD01

I use nason single stage. I spray it out of a gun. For black and stuff like that on big parts I use same single stage. Little stuff rustoleum profesional primer and rustomleum profesional black. holds very well

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RayS
quote:Originally posted by huffy

I've had bad luck with the Rustoleum stuff fading. Also, so far as their rattle can stuff, it takes months to harden up in my experience.


id="quote">
id="quote">My dad painted his old truck Rustoleum Red. In a couple years it faded to nearly pink:D. I asked him if he was going to give it to my sister as a graduation gift.

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damon91

I used the ace orange on my 2010. I agree with brettw, they have nice tips and spray nice. But I found out the hard way that their quality control is not very good, and half way through the tractor I found that half of it was a different shade of orange than the other half. I traced it down to batch numbers on the bottom of the cans. I had to respray alot of parts. so beware if you are going to paint a whole tractor, try and get cans from all the same batch.

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sispro

I have that one thank you but I was looking for the ppg code the reason is that Sherman Williams has a paint that they say will not fade or anything for 60.00 a gal. They sell it to the factory's around here.

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RayS

Probably have to look on a PPG website or see a counter guy that sells PPG brand paint. Valspar makes the Simplicity and AGCO paint. PPG and Sherwinn Williams are to separate companys, last I knew.

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SmilinSam

I generally just use what can be found off the shelf as to colors. but even so I try to stick with Valspar, been using for years from Blaines Farm & Fleet and TSC stores. However TSC recently changed paint vendors for their tractor enamels and its not Valspar anymore, so I cant get it there anymore. The stuff TSC is carrying now is some brand that I have tried and never liked.

The Valspar seems to paint decently, it seems to hold up well once cured to gas and oil spillage, and it seems to be fairly good at not scratching or scraping off like Rustoleum.

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RayS

I believe the TSC hardner can says to wait 30 - 45 minutes. Not sure what brand you have. Huffy, has a post in show and tell stating what his can say for mix instructions.

I used all my hardner last summer. So I do not have the empty can. I believe I was mixing a quart at a time. 1 - 1-1/2 ounces of hardener and reducing the paint 10% with a reducer. I have even heard of people reducing 50% but I wouldn`t do that. So I was mixing around 28 ounces of paint with 3 - 5 ounces of Xylene an 1 - 1-1/2 ounces of hardner and waiting 30 -45 minutes to mix.

Not sure what stuff you bought to paint with.

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