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rusted hydro lift cylinder shaft :(

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I am bringing back to life a 3212H. I wanted not just hydrostatic drive but also hydro lift. Luckily I have a parts tractor with one on it.

I removed and checked over the hydro-lift yesterday from the parts 3212V. There was moisture in the oil in the reservoir but everything cleaned up fine and the pump functions when driving the belt with my cordless drill. Unfortunately the rod on the cylinder was rusted and pitted from sitting sm02

The good news is that these are really simple cylinders so I can rebuild it but a 12" piece of 1/2" chromed shaft that I need to machine a new rod is going to cost me $17 plus shipping! Wow, that's over $1.50 per inch by the time it gets delivered.

I just hope I have better luck with the vickers. I will be really bummed if it is toast. The fluid reservoir wasn't full but it wasn't empty either and the filter was clean. I just got the BGB bolted back in and the engine running last night, so now I need to get a couple of woodruff keys and get the driveshaft and pulleys installed.

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Bummer! Honestly though, $17 for that shaft doesn't sound bad to me. Granted they were larger and longer, but new shafts for my loader cylinders were $150...each. I've seen stainless bolts at the hardware store that they ask more than $1.50 an inch for.

Fingers crossed on the Vickers...I like them, and I hope you end up pleased.

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I'm curious as what you will be using for the seal on the rod. Some years ago a got lucky and found an NOS seal on flea bay but have not have that kind of luck of late though I haven't needed to overhaul a cylinder lately. The original seal appears to have a wiper (or perhaps a Teflon strip) molded to the O-ring though I have used plain O-rings as well. BTW did you by any chance try to maybe polish the original shaft?

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Darn, I didn't think anybody would actually still have a NOS shaft. Oh well, I always enjoy using the tractor more when utilizing parts that I made.

The shaft was too pitted to polish out. The picture doesn't show it very well. It had already worn through the teflon of the rod seal on the side toward the corrosion. I am quite sure that it would have leaked some and likely worn the new rod seal quickly.

The piston seal is a standard Hercules TP style seal. An o-ring with two backing rings can be used also. The o-rings for the heads are size 024.

As for the rod seal... The machine shop that I help out at rebuilds a LOT of cylinders and makes some custom ones also. The issue is that this seal is 1/2" ID x 11/16" OD and most rod seals are 1/2"x3/4" The owner was going to call around to the suppliers next week to see if he can get an original style seal in that size. If not there are several options.

1. An o-ring with one or two backing rings depending on fit (probably least life)

2. A quadring is available in the correct size, this would act as a wiper in one direction and a seal in the other. (very inexpensive)

3. The last option is to bore out the seal groove to 3/4" diameter and use a TR style seal. This is a very similar design to the original, using teflon on both sides.

If I can't find the original style I will probably just go with a quadring. They might not last quite as long, but would need no machining and are less than a buck a piece.

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