MPH Posted August 8, 2014 Posted August 8, 2014 Tried out my shedder yesterday for the first time and dicided I must need a new one that comes with "how to Use" directions. First off tomatoes and pole bean green triming out of the green house didn't feed themselves in, then the zuc plant, very high water content plugged the 1 inch screen with slim after I feed it in with a stick pushing it through. Seems like every thing would wrap up on the turning knives which are just barley rounded on the tips, MAYBE an 1/8in quarter round. Only thing I can think is I'm not running it fast enough. Anyone know what RPM the hammer shaft should turn? Other ideas welcome.
HubbardRA Posted August 8, 2014 Posted August 8, 2014 Marty, flip all the hammer knives over. There are four different corners on each knife. I didn't think mine was worth a darn till I flipped the blades and got sharp cutting edges. I was chipping and shredding mainly maple limbs, but it works great on them. My chipping knife works great on the larger ones, and smaller ones go into the hammer mill. I throw the small limbs in like throwing a spear into the mill. It gobbles them up. Before I flipped the blades they would wind around and just clog up the mill like yours is acting. The cutting corner is the corner away from the pivot in the front when the blade is swinging. In other words, outer front corner, when swinging.
GrincheyOne Posted August 8, 2014 Posted August 8, 2014 Marty, I can't be sure, but MacKissic refers to 2800 RPMs, I don't know if I achieved that on my 2110, using the tiller pulley on the BGB, and the mule drive, that came with the shredder. Can't find the literature from mine. But I know they encouraged running at FOT. Never tried fresh greens, best usage I had was bark from splitting wood. Noisy but great mulch, after composting. As I remember the hammers are hard to remove or flip, unless you modify the case as I did to allow access to the axle ends. Wayne
MPH Posted August 10, 2014 Author Posted August 10, 2014 Thanks Rod and Wayne. Got it wheeled back down to the shop today. Didn't use any locktight on the carb bolts so it's gotta get fixed, remove the engine is the easiest way. Should be a good time to tip it up to turn the knives. Looks like it shouldn't be tOO bad using the hole on each side to get to the bolts.
HubbardRA Posted August 10, 2014 Posted August 10, 2014 Those side holes are for you to pull the shafts out through. I thought it was going to be a terrible job, but it wasn't too bad.
GrincheyOne Posted August 11, 2014 Posted August 11, 2014 Rod must be talking of a revision that Macissic incorporated into later models. Calculating the circumference of the rotation circle, I made my own holes, and bolt on plates to cover them. On the machine vintage I have ("hng on model"). to access the blades for removal or flipping, you had to flip the machine, remove the screen guard, AND THE SIDE PANEL. Now since I provided my own holes and covers, It's easy access Wayne
MPH Posted August 11, 2014 Author Posted August 11, 2014 Was wondering about that Wayne. Wheere do you find a model # on these? All my name plate has is a serial # and it's in nice shape.
HubbardRA Posted August 29, 2014 Posted August 29, 2014 Sorry that I hadn't checked back for a while. Wayne, I was able to change my blades with the unit on my Simplicity. I did most of the work from the top chute. I did not have to remove the screen. As I said, I can remove mine through the two side holes. If they aren't factory, then a previous owner must have put them there.
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