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OkieGT

Getting to know my Briggs engine

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OkieGT

I bought a very nice Simplicity 7016H for 400.00 last year, and because of many different issues, cancer surgery, death of a stepdaughter, college, bad health of my mother etc, I never got to finding out why it didn't run right. the tractor was clean as pin, even cleaner after i pressure washed it, that when the problem got worse. It went to flooding and choking out to no fire, I figured I got the coil wet and shorted it out, but before that determination, just to be sure I replaced the key switch, points and condenser, still no fire. Last winter I pulled the engine and put a new coil in it and while it did start it still would run right choked sputtered and flooded. Well next i rebuilt the whole car, had a great time, every was clean and unstuck, go to know the carb really well and as a long time Kohler carb man, I found the Briggs carb very stout and assuring, After rebuilding the carb per instructions and reattaching, the same result, choking, sputtering. After removing the spark plug and adding gas it ran the same, removing the carb and adding gas by squirt bottle still produce no running engine, just a sputtering hit and miss. I figured I may have not installed the new coil right and i removed the engine again (I can remove and replace in less than one hour now, not even trying), i reset the coil and re installed the engine and got the same result, somewhere between Mr Douglass's Hoyt-Clagwell and a Maytag motor. I believe throught talking with Spider and Garoyl (tractor friend from OK) that I may have either a bent, broken flywheel key, or the bracket holding the coil is out of adjustment. I have until next Saturday or Sunday to effect repairs as my regular mower the Allis 716H is going to need a PTO clutch repair/rebuild. The tractor and engine are clean, but if anyone has any advice that will help me from getting any better at engine removal/replacement, PLEASE chime in. In a way this is exactly why I'm in the hobby, to get to know these tractors, I have over 15 runners, 6 Allis/Simplicity and various other brands. I don't mind working on them, or reworking on them, it makes me very familiar with them, by the time I get it right, before seven years ago I hardly turned a wrench on anything, I finished cabinets, and painted, now I'm a full time college student, so this gives me something to do in my spare time that keeps me sane and doesn't involve drinking (some can, some cant, I can drink, I just can't stop)Thanks everyone.:)

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midnightpumpkin

You might want to try a battery ignition setup at least temporarily to prove or disprove it is an ignition issue.

If you have a kohler coil on hand, wire it up, 12 volt to the + side of coil, - side of coil to the points, make sure the wire going to the Briggs coil is disconnected. 12 volts on the wire to the Briggs coil will cook it immediately.

If it runs ok with the Kohler coil setup, you can decide if you want to make it permanent by changing out the ignition switch to one for a battery ignition.

Search "battery ignition" for more info on the subject.

John U

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BLT

Also non electrical, you fuel source may be down to fumes as the fuel line plugs up over the year. Try blowing back in to the tank and see if that helps. Also the gaskets (2) between block, shield and intake elbow will produce about the same results. Try spraying some ether around that area and see if that improves anything.

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PhanDad

I've heard adjusting the point gap away from spec sometimes helps getting a Briggs to run well. The mis-adjusted gap changes the timing to correct a bent or partially sheared flywheel key.

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OkieGT

Thanks Guys, I already tried the kohler coil, no go, I don't want to change a thing to this original 7016H, it actually looks less than 3-5 years old, the PO was OCD, he maintained, cleaned, waxed EVERYTHING every time he used it. I think he hit a rock and never could get it to run right, so he bought a new ZTR, it took him 10 years to part with it, and even maintained it when it wasn't running well. The carb was Absolutely pristine, no dirt, no dirt in any fuel lines, all new, no grease, grass, or dirt anywhere on the machine, not under it, not on the mower , nowhere. When I got it, it was very dusty, that's it. BTW Phandad, I don't think adjusting the points will help a bent or broken flywheel key, I don't think opening the points or closing them has to do with the timing, I could be wrong, just don't think so, I took the carb completely off and squirted gas into the intake and couldn't get it to rev or run at high speed, only choke and sputter, adding gas to the plug hole or intake should allow engine to rev at high speed, nothing. Thanks

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DanD

If he hit a rock then it immediately started running poorly then i would check for the sheared flywheel key. I have also seen the engine in my 7016 run poorly years ago. Changed everything. Would run ok for a few minutes when the points were changed. ..then right back to poorly. Turned out changing the condenser fixed it.

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OkieGT
quote:Originally posted by DanD

If he hit a rock then it immediately started running poorly then i would check for the sheared flywheel key. I have also seen the engine in my 7016 run poorly years ago. Changed everything. Would run ok for a few minutes when the points were changed. ..then right back to poorly. Turned out changing the condenser fixed it.


id="quote">
id="quote">Thanks Dan, and everyone else, yep new points and condenser, pretty sure it's a sheared flywheel key, I'll take it out, again, early this week and let you know

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midnightpumpkin

Don't want to over think this, but, if it ran the same with a Kohler coil battery ignition setup then the flywheel keyway position has been eliminated as the cause of the problem.

John U

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OkieGT
quote:Originally posted by BLT

When you go to 12V coil system, flywheel is a non factor as points are camshaft driven.


id="quote">
id="quote">Then I must have done something wrong on hooking the coil up, hmmmm

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OkieGT
quote:Originally posted by midnightpumpkin

Mike,Don't overlook the possibility that your new condenser might be defective.John U


id="quote">
id="quote">I always try to use a "known" product from another tractor when testing. I have great spark, the points open at the right gap, If its not a flywheel key, it has to be a valve, its a timing issue, not a spark or fuel issue. I've got it narrowed down, I just have to find the time to remove the engine again. I'm recovering from surgery, today was my first day back at college and I'm taking 15 credit hours, plus an internship, and have a part time job tutoring

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neilb1956

G'day,I would be checking the relationship between the valves and the crank,I think from memory the gear on the end of the camshaft is on a taper, (no key) I think that might be causing your problem, cheers Neil

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