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EdFromMason

New issue with the 7016

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EdFromMason

Thank you again RayS for the wiring diagram.

I built my own new wiring harness for the 7016 fallowing the diagram. Success sort of. When I assembled the new wires I skipped the safety switches all together running a single uncut wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid and deleting the safety switches. Now I can get the tractor to turn over with the key. Last time I could only shut it off with the key after jumping the solenoid to start it. This time after doing all the new wires and installing a new amp gauge, key switch, circuit breaker and solenoid. I get it to turn over just great but now I lost my spark and it will not start. The motor has a on/off switch on top of it and I never touched that so I figured it should work.

So now what?

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OkieGT

I'm not sure anyone is going to give advice on helping you eliminate safety switches/devices, forums have been sued and threatened over it, but it still happens. People want help eliminating safety features from people/organizations that can lose their livelihood by giving that information, think about what your asking

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EdFromMason

I still have the safety switches in the tractor. I just did not wire them up yet as I am thinking that those were my issues on the tractor not turning over with the key. To start the tractor last time I had to jump start it thru the solenoid then shut it down with the key. It did jump start with the safety switches in just as described. So those were not working properly any way. I did notice that one of the safety switches has a broken contact stud on it and the other one had a broken connector on one side of the plug. By passing them for now I managed to get the tractor to turn over with the key. But lost my spark now. I will be placing the safeties back in when I get the new ones here. My issue now is I had spark and now I don't. At this point I just want it to work as it should without having to jump it. I am trying to get this running for my 8yr old to use to help me out in the yard. As the JD we have he dose not have enough lead in his bottom to keep the seat down and still reach the pedals. The only thing not wired up are the lights as they do not work any way.

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EdFromMason

Here is another question do you think by passing the safety switches and running the wire directly from the key switch to the solenoid it did something to my spark. I had to have the key to the on position in order to jump it and get it to start. But given the condition of the switches I would think I should still get spark. By wiring it the way I did. If the safety switches not being hooked up is the cause of it not sparking guess it will have to sit idle until they get here. I just can't believe by passing them for now to see if they was the issue on my not being able to start the tractor by key and having it run when jumped to having it turn over with the key but not starting.

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OkieGT
quote:Originally posted by spyder400k

my firstThought is is your ign switch a 4 prong or a 5?


id="quote">
id="quote">Yeah some of those switches are made for battery ignition, some for magneto ignition and I think they can have the same number of prongs or at least fit onto the original plug in. Thanks Dennis, good call.

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HubbardRA

Eliminating the safety switches with a straight wire (even though I don't recommend doing that) should not have any effect on the ignition system.

I am guessing that you have the wrong ignition switch. Without knowing the entire background on why you rewired the ignition and if there were any ignition changes or parts from other tractors used on this one, it is difficult to directly define the problem.

There are two ignition switches that "both" plug directly into the same connector in the wiring harness. One is for a magneto type system and shorts the magneto to ground when turned off but is disconnected from the coil in the run position. The other is for a battery-coil system and applies power to a coil in the on position and breaks this connection when in the off position. This one also applies power to the coil in the start position. Not only do they have these differences but the pin-outs from the switch have been shifted. I have changed several of these. I use a meter to check the switch, then move the wires on the mating connector to make things work properly, but even before doing this you will need to have the correct ignition switch for your application.

You can ask johnmonkey. I rewired the ignition on one of his tractors to make it work after he changed engines to one with the different ignition. On his we kept the original wiring, just moved a few wires to different places and maybe added a wire or two. Been a while so I don't remember all the details. Some of us old codgers sometimes suffer from CRS quite often.

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EdFromMason

Well I found a couple of what appear to be good safety switches got them in and wired but still no go in starting. I think the switch for ignition is a 5 prong. If you check my other post about 3416 and 7016. I ordered the ignition switch from Partstree.com making sure all the numbers are the same from the simplicity parts pages for the 7016 to the part numbers from parts tree. The numbers are the same. How do I tell what numbers to go by for parts. The key switch ordered was 2178280SM. The tractor is a System 7016 hydrostat drive. White hood with black on it that has system 7016 on it. Think I had a photo of it on here but can't remember. The issue was to get it to start I had to turn the key on then jump it thru the solenoid to get it to start. To turn it off you just turned the key to the off position. The issue was it would not start with the key. What do I look for to find out the correct numbers to make sure I order the correct parts for my 7016.

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spyder400k

it should be a 5 prong and you only use 4 poles of the switch. but no matter it should still run stand alone with out the tractor if it does its the wireing. i have 2 of these same tractors 1 with a amp and 1 with out. so i have both wirings of this model.if you still cant get it going ill try to help out. but at least put the pto safty on it. way to many things can and will go wrong at any given time.

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MikeES

Is the 7016 a Briggs or a Kohler? The Briggs is a magneto and the switch need to be open to run while the Kohler is a battery ignition and the on position is a closed contact.

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EdFromMason

I was looking at my old ignition switch and the old wiring plug that plugs into it and...................Ahhhh now I see !!!!!!!!!!!! Ok I was thinking that it had 5 wires going to the ignition switch.(due to seeing a extra wire in there that went to nothing but a dead end. No clue what it was for. Then looking at the wiring diagram that was posted for me had 5 wires on it. Thought that was how I was to wire it up. Diagram said System 7016H Mfg. No. 1690006 in the back of the operators manual. So..............that might have been part of the issue. No clue what my numbers are on mine. Any how back to the old stuff. A couple of you said that some had only 4 wires going to the ignition switch. That is what I have. Green-battery, white-points, purple-safety then solenoid and black-lights. So I will set this up in that way to see if it will start, run and turn off with the key. This brings me back to one of my other questions where do I find the numbers for my 7016 so I do not run into any more issues with things concerning mine.

Thank you to all for the help and if the wiring set up I have here is wrong please let me know.

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