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Wiring Problems

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sispro

I just got my tractor done and now I got the engine on which is a 20hp magnum.

I need to wire this up which I don't have a harness for it so is there anyone here that can make one for me or is there a sheet I can follow but let me tell you I am not that good at following a wire diagram. :D

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PhanDad

Wiring diagram for a 7116:

16GTHL_Wire7116a.jpg

If it has a carb solenoid, BLT will let you know what extra is required.;)Ignore the pencil notes. (I didn't install the safety interlock module and replacement engine had a S/G)

16GTHL_Wire7116a.jpg.f28fb7918e3c2ddc9a4474295f464498.jpg

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PhanDad

I don't believe the OEM Briggs 16HP in a 7117 didn't have points either, but it did have a magneto ignition, like all Briggs 16HP single cylinders.

I believe the Kohler Magnum's also have magneto ignition, not a coil ignition like the KT-17. Someone should confirm; if so, then the above wiring diagram should work since it's for a magneto ignition.

If you want the PTO and Neutral safety switches to work (good idea), leave them as shown above on the "ground" side of the solenoid. They are wired in series with the seat switch in the diagram above; so you also have to be in the seat to start the tractor (in addition to the PTO off and tranny in neutral). That's what I did. So once the tractor is started, the safety switches are no longer active (for example, you can jump off the seat and the tractor will continue to run with blades engaged and tractor moving). If you don't want the seat safety, don't wire it in "ground" circuit or use a jumper around the seat switch.

If you want the "logic" safeties (for example, engine runs if PTO off and in neutral, but out of seat) you need to wire in the interlock module as shown.

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PhanDad

Sometimes wiring harnesses become available on eBay, that's definitely the easiest way to wire the tractor. But even on used harnesses, you should check the wires for continuity and worn insulation; it's much easier to find a problem before the harness is installed.

As to making your own, it's not that bad. I use 16 gauge wire; 14 gauge for the main feed from the battery through the various items to the ignition switch. The 14/16 gauge is probably 1 gauge heavier than OEM, I'm not sure.

First, have all the items to be wired installed in the tractor. Start with the longest "single wire" runs, such as ignition switch to solenoid, kill wire (ignition switch to mag). Leave slack at the ends, especially at the dash tower.

When running an ignition switch wire, I solder (not a fan of crimp only) the female connector onto the wire. I then run the crimp end of the wire back to the ignition switch from where the other end of the wire connects. Then cut the wire and solder the appropriate connector to the end of the wire, and connect the wire. I do the same for all the wiring (pre prepare one end of the wire, run it, cut it, add connector, connect.

Where there's more than one wire connected to a terminal (the ignition switch accessory feed for example), you can skin the wire in the middle such that there's enough wire to reach the closest item. Add the connector to the skinned area without cutting the wire and run the long wire as described above.

For the accessory feed, I'm a fan of the auxiliary terminal board. Just run a wire from the ignition switch accessary terminal and hook everything else to it (so wire the light switch to the board rather than the ignition switch as shown in the diagram).

As to the PTO and neutral safeties:

1)run a wire from the solenoid to one side of the neutral safety switch

2)another wire from the other side of the neutral safety switch to one side of the PTO safety switch

3)another wire from the other side of the PTO safety switch to a good ground.

If you want the seat safety switch in the circuit, then wire it into the circuit the same way before the ground connection. Ignore the interlock module wiring completely.

The wiring diagram shows the ground (G) terminal unwired; the case acts as ground. I wire this terminal out to the same engine ground that the (-) battery lead is connected to. I tie all ground connections to this wire to minimize ground issues.

After all wiring is installed, test for functionality. Once all's OK, use electrical tape, or tape and corrugated tubing to make your wiring into a harness.

Good luck.

PS - you can see some of the wiring I've done in this post:

http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=141658

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by MikeES

The Kohler M20 is electronic (magneto) ignition and uses the same key switch as the Briggs.


id="quote">
id="quote">Mike that's true. But there were Magnum's out there that were equipped with a fuel solenoid and if Sispro engine has one , there is NO spade on his existing ignition switch for solenoid to function as Kohler recommends.

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RayS

What wiring diagram for a magnum has a fuel solenoid? I have been looking for an hour on these schematics and can not find one. Command has them, but I can not find a Magnum that has one. I will look a little deeper, but he says that he doesn`t have a fuel solenoid.

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BLT

Sispro didn't mention where he got it from that I recall, so I had to ask the question about solenoid. Simplicity didn't use them on the Sunstar but Kohler did use them for other mower mfg's, so what Phabdad shows is good to go.:D Happy wiring.;)

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by huffy

Ray:I didn't see one in my Magnum service manual, either. Maybe I missed it. Or, maybe you took that page out before you gave me the manual. :)


id="quote">
id="quote">Kohler manual TP 2204 B page 6A 17.:)

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powerking_one

So you have to fabricate a wiring harness from scratch for this tractor/engine. If the carb has a fuel cutoff solenoid, then you have to keep it functional; typically just a branch off of the hot "I" terminal from the 5-pole key switch. 12 volts is applied to it for the engine to start & and run (ignition switch positions); draw it out on paper to decide how to do the point to point harness/connection particulars.

Tom (PK)

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