Success!! The HB-210 lives!

[JohnN 0]

Kent, Will this be in the DIY section? I have a B-112 I would like to put a hydro in, if I can find a parts tractor or preferably just a rear. I've got a problem putting parts tractors back together. I picked up a 7010 for parts for the B-112 and wound up restoring it. I picked up a 7117 for parts and put it back together with a K341 and now it's plowing the driveway. Bought a B-210 with a weak BGB and used it for 2 years cutting grass and plowing snow and tilling the garden. I've got to stop getting parts tractors and just get the parts I need... It's getting crowded here. Congratulations, John

[Kent 436]

Yes, I plan to put it in the DIY section. SmilinSam is doing one also -- but putting a 16HP engine in it at the same time. He's not too far behind me in getting his done. I'm going to see how my 10HP does with the hydro, mower deck and vac before I make that leap... Then, decide if I do a 12HP or 16HP. I have 12HP blocks, but I also have a new 16HP piston... all I'd need to do is bore the 12HP out... Decisions, decisions... ;<)

[John_RI 8]

Congratulations Kent! It is nice when things follow the plan - I find in general about 5% of my projects go that way. Warm yourself up and show us some pictures!!

[Kent 436]

I just came in from the barn, where I was able to start my "HB-210" for the first time! I'm not quite done yet -- I still need to rewire the lights and put the side panels back on. Since I didn't want to breath the exhaust fumes (and it's about 20 degrees outside should I open the door), I only ran it for a couple of minutes max to test the brakes, linkage, etc. Linkage needs a slight adjustment -- it wants to creep backwards slightly in neutral. Hopefully this weekend I can adjust the linkage, get it out and run it a bit to warm it up good then change the transmission fluid and filter. Even get a few final pictures... While this was a relatively straight-forward job, since I ended up painting the frame and front-end of the tractor, it took a while in the winter... paint dries slooooooooow! I do need to remove the control lever and get the tab welded back on that contacts the neutral safety switch. It had to be taken off it's original position because it hit the dash, and I thought I'd just bolt it back on --- NOT! I don't know what kind of metal the control lever is made of, but brand new Craftsman vanadium-plated drill bits (the gold colored ones -- and priced accordingly) wouldn't even touch it.... Now, I just have a piece of thick metal clamped on it with a hose clamp, just to contact the neutral safety switch... It was actually much easier to put the Sundstrand tranny in than I'd expected -- all the other things I did took most of the time. You gotta love it when a plan comes together...

[JohnN 0]

Congratulations Kent. Can't wait to see pictures. Welcome to the "Creepy Neutral" club. Do you have the spring loaded linkage you can try blocking?

[MPH 12]

Nice going Kent. Sounds like a fine up-grade to say the least. Careful out in that 'T' shirt temp. MPH

[carter 0]

Kent, Sounds good to me! Now that you've mastered the rear end of the beast, a rebuild on your 12/16 Briggs should be a piece of cake. Congratulations on a job well done. Ron

[Brent_Baumer 5]

We demand photos! Take it to a show and see how many are scratching their heads wondering if it's factory. Brent

[Kent 436]

Herb, It has the spring-loaded linkage, plus the elongated, oval-shaped hole in the back end of the linkage rod. My initial adjustment, when I was determining the location of the front bracket for the control lever, was by aligning the mark on "circular" control bracket on the tranny with the center of the shaft, and then loosening the bolt on the end of the linkage and centering it in that elongated hole. I'm hoping just a minor adjustment to the end of the linkage rod will stop the creeping -- and that there's enough "room for adjustment" to do so, since it is currently centered in the elongated hole. I ran out of time last night to try it.... This is one of the earlier Sundstrand trannies, with the longer, remote-mounted transmission filter located down inside the frame rails. Later, they mounted a shorter filter directly on the left side of the tranny. There's pros and cons with this remote filter, I understand. It's out of the way of rear PTO belts, and well protected inside the frame rails, but I understand that it is easy to crack the center, threaded tube on the bracket that the filter screws onto, if you overtighten the filter.... Then, there's also the rubber hoses to crack or leak as they get older and harden. I'm anxious to put the final pieces on, and drive it around some to see how it performs... Kent

[powermax_paul 1]

I'll second Dutch's welcome to the creepy neutral club. Good go'in Kent! I'm looking forward to the pics too. Paul

[StinKy 0]

Kent, ya might just as well go for the hp. as long as it's available and of course in keeping with "Tim the Tool Man Taylors" view on improving things mechanical. Congrats to you, and eagerly waiting for the pictures!! Dick