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SmilinSam

Sizing a 540 PTO driveshaft ?

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SmilinSam

Got a dilemma here...

Sizing a pto shaft on a King Kutter XB tiller to my Kubota BX25d, the instructions say at shortest position mark 3" back from ujoint shield on to each opposing piece. At longest position there needs to be a min of 6" overlap.

Problem is on this tractor tiller combo, the overlap in the longest position is only 5.5", and the overlap in the shortest position is only 4.5" .

If I make marks/cuts less than 3". there wont be enough travel to hook the driveshaft up to the pto stub on tractor with the tiller pinned on the 3 point.

Surely they don't expect one to hook the driveshaft up before mounting the tiller to the tractor?

Am I missing something here?

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SmilinSam
quote:Originally posted by Ronald Hribar

When you raise the tiller Will the driveshaft slip on?


id="quote">
id="quote">Not yet, not without cutting it to a shorter length.

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Ronald Hribar

Why do you have to shorten PTO?

I would think that there is a standard

For each category of hitch

Are you supposed to cut both the shield and PTO shaft?

And both ends?

What would happen if you just cut one side?

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Ronald Hribar

just watched it being done on you tube

shows how to measure and cut

the 3 inches is not necessary

but you do cut both sides

and the shield and shaft are cut separately

so that shaft is longer than shield

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SmilinSam

Thanks Ron, I have already watched that one and several others.

The dilemma is if I cut it at less than 3 inches Icant get it on the tractor pto shaft without having to attach prior to pinning the tiller on the 3 point.

If I cut it the 3 " then it doesn't have the so called required 6" of overlap..

shot a message off to King cutter and will wait to hear a response..

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Talntedmrgreen

I cut per similar instructions to the video. No way I could have 6" of overlap on the Legacy. I'm also not operating a higher HP setup, or very wide attachments. I have 23" arms...I would have to have someone line up the PTO shaft, and back into the darn thing! Then, my shaft would probably still be too long and bind.

My overlap is probably under 3", at it's worst, on the flail mower. I just cut while leaving it as long as I could, and still squeaking the shaft onto the PTO, and short enough so I can't bind it. On my 50" Simplicity tiller, I'm using the OEM shaft, but longer than OEM lift arms. If I run my top link way out, I can pull the shaft apart! Normal operation, I MIGHT be overlapping 2". That unit could use a longer shaft, but it's length was predetermined for me, and shafts aint cheap.

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steve-wis

Sam,

I have had farm tractor implements that presented the same problem for me, especially on an Allis WD that I put a three point conversion on. In my case, I considered how often the implement would be running or working when the shaft was at full extension, and that usually was a rare condition. Also take into consideration the condition of the two halves of the shaft. If they are worn and fit loosely, they will probably need more engagement to prevent the shaft starting to whip at speed. If the shaft is in good shape and won't be under full load at full extension much, I have run with as little as 3 inches of engagement without problems.

I can't imagine having to hook the shaft prior to the three point mounting, that seems like it would be a nightmare. I guess the other alternative would be to hook the two lower arms only, then raise the arms, letting the implement swing away from the tractor until you could hook the shaft, then lowering the implement and then hooking the upper link. But that still seems like alot of messing around to me.

Steve

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SmilinSam

I ended up cutting it as per the video Ron posted above. Test ran he tiller and it seems to work fine. Shaft hooks up fine with tiller mounted and lowered sitting on floor.

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