Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

PhanDad

Command Engine Break-in Oil

Recommended Posts

PhanDad

In the "Oil Type" section of the Kohler owners manual for the NOS CH20S I recently installed, I just noticed this:

NOTE: Synthetic oils meeting the listed

classifications may be used with oil changes

performed at the recommended intervals.

However to allow piston rings to properly

seat, a new or rebuilt engine should be

operated for at least 50 hours using standard

petroleum based oil before switching to

synthetic oil.

Of course I used 100% synthetic oil (Mobil1, 10-30). The engine has about 6 hours on it (I know, real heavy use since June) with no signs of oil usage by either dip stick or blue smoke.

So, should I continue to run the 100% synthetic or switch to dino oil?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Brettw

Bill,

I think I would run the regular 30 weight for a bit. You haven't put enough hours on just yet anyway, and might's well get the rings properly seated. That being said, my M-18 and M-20 new engines I ran straight 30, but not for nearly the 50 hours they are speaking of. Maybe 10-20 max, and have run Mobile 1 ever since. No oil usage, no issues. So who knows? When all else fails, I tend to believe the guys that have been paid boatloads for years and years to figure this stuff out, and have their words back the warranties on these engines.

Although I am absolutely positive that I know better than these factory engineers and R&D guys, I may have been slightly mistaken once or twice..:o)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
rfsmith1952

I can't imagine how the type of oil would effect the rings seating. Maybe it would take a little longer to seat with the synthetic. It's a new old stock engine, not rebuilt, so I would think you can leave the oil in for the full lifetime of the oil. Just my opinion, and we all have one!:D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLT

I would go back to 10W-30, work the devil out of the engine and then go back to synthetic. Dino will give you better chance of seating in rings. It would be nice to bench test it at 100% rated for 1-1/2, so you need to next best thing . My best guess is that all garden tractors have a 35-40% duty cycle and in reality air cooled engines really don't get hot-hot which is the best for seating in rings.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Kenh

This is a very controversial subject, engine breakin that is. WAY back in 1974 my instructor at the community college I went to promoted running the engine "hard". He didn't mean abuse it, just run it hard. The theory is the hard running makes the rings seat properly before the new cross hatching in the cylinder has been smoothed to much to be of further use.

Here is the long version I discovered a couple of years ago.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

This guy has some good explanation of how it all works. I've used the procedure on every engine I've rebuilt from a radio control airplane engine to a high performance V-8 and have yet to "lose" an engine.

Ken

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Burntime

I ran 10 w30 in my command for 9 hours and worked it hard at different rpms pulling a trailer full of wood. I could feel more power. Then went to synthetic when it felt tight. Not sure if right but it got stolen so who knows now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
oldsarge

From'50 to'90retirement; from lawn mowers to GTs,hot rod fords to diesel farm tractors mechanic uncle ALWAYS USED NON-DETERGENT for break in oil!!!!!good nuff fer me^ps he was lawn boy,hahn eclipse,and AC dealer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×