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onehandman

5212.5 hydrostatic transmission

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onehandman

Good morning everyone, I am new to the site, but not new to tractors. I refurbished a 47 2n ford tractor, but I have moved and pulling a 5 foot mower deck would look ridiculous and is just not practical now. I have had a 1986 5212.5 for some time now. When you first start running the tractor is moves great, but as it warms up the tractor slows to almost a complete stop and the hydro oil comes up in the cup(it almost fills the complete cup up). Once cooled down it will drive fine. This one has me stumped. I did have the transmission apart at one time because it wouldn't move. It worked great for a while, then started doing this. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Paul

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sb64

Welcome to the site Paul :D I am not familiar with hydro's but there are plenty of people here that do.

Not trying to get you to spend money, but being a club member for $10 is definitely worth it.

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onehandman

Good morning gents,

I didn't hear from many of you, so i decided to do some more research, the transmission is an eaton model 7, and i found specs for the ball bearing to pump/motor specs. I tore the transmission down and all seem to be in spec. One thing i did order was a "seal" kit and am going to replace the internal seals which there aren't many. I also am going to check the relief valve(this is what i'm going to call it because when you press the lever it allows neutral). or we can call it the neutral valve. I do know the transmission is dirty inside, so it will be getting cleaned, resealed and reassembled. I do not see any wear per say that would cause the condition i am seeing.

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B10Dave

Paul; is there an external filter on that one? Has fluid been changed before. Are any of the flex hoses collapsing from age? Good luck with your repairs....Dave

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goatfarmer

I remember Al Eden talking about a hydro trans, not sure if it's the Eaton 7. But he said that there are "check balls" or something similar inside, and that they have to be put back in the same order that they were taken out.

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onehandman

Dave, this one is all internal, no filters, or hoses. Goat farmer, there are stainless steel balls that are used for the pump, and the motor. I could see why Al Eden would mention wanting to put them back in the same location because of wear. But if they all have the same amount of wear/clearances and all are in specification it shouldn't make a difference. I did find a spring out of place, not really sure how that happened though? I did find the eaton manual and it states it can use 20W50 I believe. I will probably go this route instead of the simplicity multiuse transmission oil that simplicity recommends.

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onehandman

Well just an update, took transmission apart and just for giggles measured each ball, to bore all measured within a one thousanth of each other. And all were within specification of wear five thousandth. What I did find however was the cushion pistons would practically fall right out. I ordered the seal kit up from ebay took a few weeks to get, reassembled and with the new seal kit I can't even think about removing these pistons. I would have to glue something to the top of the piston to remove it. Currently I have the peerless rear end apart to reseal it had a crack at one time that was welded, and well the gasket went bad at that point. That should be an easy fix. Hopefully i'll be able to update how well it works in a week or so(hopefully being the key word)

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onehandman

Well it moves under its own power. Had it running for 15 minutes last night and never felt as if it lost power. I just used regular ATF. Best part is NO leaks! I believe I have an oil control ring that is either stuck slightly from the tractor sitting for 2 1/2 years or just one that is wore out. Smokes when starting up, and when I adjusted the valves well it had oil in that cylinder. Good compression though so I guess we will just have to see how it goes.

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