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mruta

Ignition/starter switch for B-112?

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mruta

Can anyone help me out with a part number for an ignition switch for my B-112?

I am usually quite good at tracking down parts and/or part numbers, but this one has me stumped.

Thanks in advance for any help!

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mruta

Okay- completely aggravated now. Got a switch from NAPA trying to.cross reference the correct number. The switch given to me has 5 pins instead of 4 like the original. The original switch used only 3 of the four pins. The ignition switch connector has 3 spade terminals molded into place. I plugged the new switch in, and it immediately cooked the fuse going to the ammeter. Took a closer look and realized the pin arrangement was different. To the point- cut the molded connector off of the harness and hooked the wires to their correct location, or so I thought. The new switch would still blow the fuse. The switch would crank the starter and appear otherwise normal with the magneto wire disconnected.

I ended up putting the original switch back in. You have to turn the key just right in order to make it crank... I suspect the guys are worn out.

Anyway, can anyone tell me if I'm missing something with the new 5 pin switch? For some reason I feel like the ground wire on the new switch should be connected...

Thanks again for the support. I look forward to hearing what you all think!

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mruta

I do have the old switch- I reinstalled it back into the tractor, though it barely works well enough to get the engine started.

I'd love to make the new one work somehow seeing as it's paid for and non returnable...

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BLT

Are your three wires colored like purple , white and dark green? If they are what position are they on the switch. I my guess is right , the terminal not used should have power when key is turned on. White is ground, dark green battery power and purple starter signal and I don't know how they are orientated on the plug. Looking at he plug (female side) with the single horizontal at 12 o'clock what wire is that and lower left (?) and lower right ® and lastly the other terminal was used for an hourmeter signal. You might spray some WD 40 in the pug and then slide it on and off the key switch to see if that helps.

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mruta

RayS- is that second switch the OEM part (or equivalent )?

I believe there has to be a way to make my new switch work- after all, it is just an ignition switch.

Does anyone know what model tractor this "new" switch came out of? If I could figure that out, I could get a wiring diagram and it should be fairly simple from there... In theory, anyway.

Thanks for the input fellas!

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BLT

You can salvage your switch by repining the plug, Here is how you do it. http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/portal_articles.asp?catid=30&Title=Relocating%20spade%20terminals%20in%20igition%20plug&LinkID=238&expand=true&area=3

If you do a look up on the switch you bought either via google or ebay the pin outs are shown . If not I'll try this. Looking at the back of the plug, single spade at the 6 o'clock position, top row reading left to right, left spade "G", right spade "L". Middle row, left spade "B" , right spade "M" . Bottom spade "B" . Now if the engine doesn't stop in the "off" position, you might have to run a wire from "G" to the frame. Off position is G & M, Run is L & B and start is L,B & S.

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mruta

Thanks for the input, BLT! The old connector broke, so I installed female spade terminals on the wires and hooked them up (on the replacement switch) in positions that made sense to me. My problem was that it would blow a fuse on the tractor when I turned the key... Obviously a dead short somehow. I will check out the wire colors/terminal letters and search for the diagram when I get home.

I'm hoping this, along with a carb rebuild will have this sucker running like a top soon. I'm really hoping I can use the snowblower attachment this winter.

By the way, I couldn't access the link, as I am not (yet) a paid member. I will be fixing that soon as well.

Thanks again!

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