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Simplicity7013H

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Well, the main input seal on the bgb went out. It's leaking a ton of oil. Am I going to have to drop the rear end to change it? Also, in cold weather do gaskets and seals shrink letting oil out? That's what my uncle said. So I wasn't sure. Any help appreciated.

Thanks

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Elliot I know U are nor speaking of the 4211. If it's on a FDT the only access to the input side of the BGB is by detaching the side plates, removing the drive shaft and yoke, then the bulkhead bolts between the main frame and the BGB. ( In effect "pulling the rear"), but in reality splitting the tractor in two.:(sm02:(!

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I myself have seen seals leak in cold weather conditions and not leak in at all in warm weather. I guess it depends on how bad the leak is.

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The 7013 is the one that's leaking. The leak is pretty bad. Do I need to completely disassemble the bgb to replace the input shaft seal?

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To split the tractor to get to ONLY the front BGB seal, you don't have to remove the side plates. You do have to disconnect the linkages however. Also disconnect the driveshaft and remove the BGB yoke. A trick to remove the yoke is to use extra long bolts and push the yoke off the shaft when the bolt ends s push against the frame.

After disconnecting the linkages and yoke, block up the front half of the tractor at the end of the frame. Take out the 4 bolts holding the BGB to the frame. Be prepared to support the BGB since it will want to rotate down. I use a wheeled pump jack under the BGB. Back and turn the back half of the tractor to get access to the input shaft.

In my experience, when the front seal is leaking badly, the needle bearing is shot and will need to be replaced. Hopefully this isn't your case. Check for side play by trying to move the drive shaft side-to-side/up/down. If there's a lot of movement, that's what did in the seal.

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If the input shaft is leaking...

1. Too much oil in the BGB, cold weather will stiffen the seal and make it easier for the oil to leak out. The 7013 should have a dip stick to check level, the oil level should just touch the end of the dipstick when the dipstick/plug is just set in place (not screwed in).

2. If levels are good and it just started leaking "pretty bad", I would guess that the input shaft bearing(s) have gone out which will destroy the input seal and cause it to "leak badly".

At the very least (just to replace the seal) you will need to split the tractor in 2 at the BGB. Not to bad to split the tractor, linkages, driveshaft yoke on BGB, and 4 bolts on the BGB.

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I'd bet the input bearing is bad causing the shaft to wobble and thus causing seal failure. I've seen this happen a few times, hope I'm wrong.

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Good news!! It's over filled (by a lot) I accidentally filled it to the TOP of the hole in the BGB. Hopefully that's the problem. Or at least that's what MikeES said.

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So, this means I don't need to change the seal?:DdOd should I leave it as is and let it leak out the oil or should I drain some?

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Thankfully. The BGB in my 7013 and 3112 both have drain plugs. Thanks for all of the help. If it continues to leak ill be back with more questions.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well over the past few weeks I have made an observation... When it is running at high speeds it leaks a lot. I checked side play and there isn't a lot. I'm not sure what to do now.

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The only thing I can think of in the short term is to check fluid level in the BGB often, add Lucus oil additive to give protection to the bearings and gears if it would go low and when the seasons change split the tractor by the 4 bolts on the front of the BGB.

If the input shaft has no side or end play replace the seal and reassemble. If play is present than you can either rebuild your BGB or search eBay or classifieds for a replacement BGB. You really only need to remove the left frame plate(with tractor split) to change out the gearbox, it's really not difficult.

It depends on how long you can put up with adding fluid and the trail of oil on when you want to do the job.

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